N120 and harvester light “BLUES”

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LHR

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It seems that with N120 and 52-57 grains behind a .40-240gr is shredding the sabot. Accuracy is MOBB, or minute of barn ( broadside).

I tried a veggie wad and a wool wad under the sabot with no effect that I could discern. Velocity was also erratic over the chrono.

It wasn’t until I noticed something had hit my chronograph screen that I realized the sabot was coming apart. I took a wad of tp and duct taped it to form a pad that was taped over the screen to protect it, and then after several shots found pieces of sabot imbedded into the duct tape.

Chronograph was 10’ from the muzzle.

With the same powder, and a 270 gr. Bore rider I can put them in almost the same hole at 100 yards. So I know this gun shoots.

What powder would be better for the .240gr .40 cal bullet in a light blue sabot?
N110 is what I’m leaning towards.IMG_0029.jpeg
 
It looks like a mono copper bullet. Try annealing and or knurling it. What is the barrel twist rate?
 
That bullet appears to be knurled already. I'd back down the charge a tad bit from the 52 grains or maybe even better try the N110 at 30-32 grains and see if the sabots hold together.
 
It seems that with N120 and 52-57 grains behind a .40-240gr is shredding the sabot. Accuracy is MOBB, or minute of barn ( broadside).

I tried a veggie wad and a wool wad under the sabot with no effect that I could discern. Velocity was also erratic over the chrono.

It wasn’t until I noticed something had hit my chronograph screen that I realized the sabot was coming apart. I took a wad of tp and duct taped it to form a pad that was taped over the screen to protect it, and then after several shots found pieces of sabot imbedded into the duct tape.

Chronograph was 10’ from the muzzle.

With the same powder, and a 270 gr. Bore rider I can put them in almost the same hole at 100 yards. So I know this gun shoots.

What powder would be better for the .240gr .40 cal bullet in a light blue sabot?
N110 is what I’m leaning towards.View attachment 37220
Dayum! I got those bullets too, but I haven't shot any of them yet. I didn't get them to shoot BTB though.
 
It seems that with N120 and 52-57 grains behind a .40-240gr is shredding the sabot. Accuracy is MOBB, or minute of barn ( broadside).

I tried a veggie wad and a wool wad under the sabot with no effect that I could discern. Velocity was also erratic over the chrono.

It wasn’t until I noticed something had hit my chronograph screen that I realized the sabot was coming apart. I took a wad of tp and duct taped it to form a pad that was taped over the screen to protect it, and then after several shots found pieces of sabot imbedded into the duct tape.

Chronograph was 10’ from the muzzle.

With the same powder, and a 270 gr. Bore rider I can put them in almost the same hole at 100 yards. So I know this gun shoots.

What powder would be better for the .240gr .40 cal bullet in a light blue sabot?
N110 is what I’m leaning towards.View attachment 37220
Whenever I shoot using my chrony, it sits 20' from my muzzle. When I shoot sabots, they all fall in a line between 15'-18' so none are going thru or hitting it - as of yet.
 
Actually these are Cutting Edge mono bullets, Maximus and Raptors, Maximus are pre-knurled and go down the bore very tight!
Ahh Haa, thanks for the correction. I've never shot them. From the top half stickin out of the sabot to me looked like the Fury's.
 
I was shooting some of those 240 gr Maximus today for the first time with 115 grV BH209. Sabots looked great but the groups sucked.
Did they fit your bore tight like mine did? I had to really lean on the ramrod with both hands!

But the Raptors were very smooth almost one handed down the tube
 
It seems that with N120 and 52-57 grains behind a .40-240gr is shredding the sabot. Accuracy is MOBB, or minute of barn ( broadside).

I tried a veggie wad and a wool wad under the sabot with no effect that I could discern. Velocity was also erratic over the chrono.

It wasn’t until I noticed something had hit my chronograph screen that I realized the sabot was coming apart. I took a wad of tp and duct taped it to form a pad that was taped over the screen to protect it, and then after several shots found pieces of sabot imbedded into the duct tape.

Chronograph was 10’ from the muzzle.

With the same powder, and a 270 gr. Bore rider I can put them in almost the same hole at 100 yards. So I know this gun shoots.

What powder would be better for the .240gr .40 cal bullet in a light blue sabot?
N110 is what I’m leaning towards.View attachment 37220
Your sabots are melted you need to get different ones mmp makes different kinds with different plastics
 
Actually these are Cutting Edge mono bullets, Maximus and Raptors, Maximus are pre-knurled and go down the bore very tight!
VERY common problem they shred sabots at SML speeds. TONS of guys ran into this problem with the Cutting Edge 40s.
 
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I will only shoot The Cutting Edge with black horn ,switch the bullet to the 225 Fury or the 240 Fury and try the same load I think you'll be okay I do really like The Cutting Edge bullets however and I've had really good success with them with a heavy load of Black Horn and some of my smokeless guns I shoot that bullet often with a real stiff charge of Blackhorn but smokeless it doesn't work I drill the plastic when I do.
 
I almost mentioned bh209 but I was thinking use a smokeless powder with a similar burn rate. Here are two of the same Lehigh .400 caliber muzzleloader all copper bullets. The one on the left is not annealed and tumbles and hits a target sideways at fifty yards in my rifle and the one on the right is annealed and stacks them at 100 yards.
 

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Have you tried a wool wad over powder n under the sabots ? Was the barrel hot from firing ? Just a tip on sabots do not let them get in the Sun & then load them. I use very mild loads of VV110 n 4759 from my .45 using .40 bullets
 

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