Rattling Antlers

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norbush1

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I really like rattling for bucks during this part of the season. Instead of waiting for something to happen, we can MAKE something happen!

Be sure to cut off the brow-tines or you'll damage your thumbs :lol:

I leave a set of rattlers in each of my blinds. Here are 2 sets.

rattle10.jpg
 
Nice pair of natural antlers norbush for rattling! I really like to call deer using mouth calls, and sometimes start a rattling sequence first to see if I can get their attention.

Antlers can be a challenge though to tote around for still hunters like me. Here's a homemade rattling bag I use which has been proven effective more than once in calling them in.
MsLZ40G.jpg
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The bag laid flat as shown above measures 7" x 12" and is made using simple camo cloth. It contains six pieces of kiln-dried wood:

three 10" long dowels 3/4" in diameter; and
three 10" X 3/4" X 3/4" squared pieces of wood.

The bag can produce both soft and loud rattling sounds with minimal hand movement, and compacts nicely in my backpack.
 
Made a set of rattling antlers myself last night with some drops i found during the season.

How long are you supposed to rattle for and how often?
 
I prefer a less aggressive "sparring" version of rattling rather than a "fighting" version, and do all my rattling within a 4 to 5 minute period. I will rattle for 30 seconds, wait a minute or two, rattle for another 20 seconds, wait a minute or two, then finish-off with another 10 seconds of rattling. It's enough to get the attention of curious deer farther away, but not enough time to give closer deer an opportunity to pinpoint me.

Rattling is not a stand alone calling method for me. I use it only as a long-range primer to using mouth calls.
 
Thanks Marty! I want to try it on the muleys in the back yard and see what happens.
 
There are probably as many rattling-techniques as there are deer-confrontations :lol:

Rattling can bring in the big boys to check/challenge newcomers ... small bucks can come in to see what's happening (or could be intimidated away) ... and even does can come in to see what the boys are doing :lol:

I am looking to bring in the larger bucks. So i avoid 'little deer' sparring, as the big boys will just ignore that. I want to sound like 2 serious contenders fighting over the breeding rights for the area. So any nearby big bucks need to come in to protect their area from these 'intruders'.

I usually start with 15 seconds of just 'tickling' the antlers together as if 2 bucks were starting to engage (starting with big crashes could scare away a buck that was close). For about 30 seconds, i will rattle harder, then for next 30 seconds will hard grind them together, simulating serious pushing between bigger bucks. I usually end with clattering all tines together as the bucks disengage. Like Marty, i don't want to rattle too long, allowing them to pinpoint my position.

I will wait for half an hour, hope that new bucks have cruised into hearing-range, and re-do.

I think rattling works when there is a high buck-to-doe ratio, as the bucks need to compete. If there are lots of does, then why fight? .... easier to go just go an find another one :lol:
 
FG - if you're using last year sheds, you're probably OK. If the sheds are older (here they get bleached white if left over a summer), then they have dried out and the sound is not right (i think they sound brittle).

So, for older sheds, i leave them in a 5-gallon pail of water overnight. They absorb enough moisture that they revert to a more solid/heavy sound.
 
i have 2 rattling methods.

[1] From my stand, near bait. I think the does are nearby or come by frequently, and if i am near the does, then the bucks will likely show up here.

[2] Combination still-hunting and rattling. In heavy bush terrain, I still-hunt travelling upwind, then stop and sit against a trees facing downwind. I am assuming that my walking and my rattling has 'given up my position' and deer in the area have me pinpointed (but don't know what i am). Just from my own observations, deer will circle downwind, and my opportunity is to catch them as they travel alongside, before they get to the downwind place. New deer should not be coming straight in from downwind, as i have already been there! Once a deer is seen or heard, the challenge is to get positioned for a shot without getting caught moving, as they are often in close range. A shot to the left side (for a right-handed shooter) is easier. A shot to the right side (for a right handed shooter) takes more movement. So when i first sit down, i usually coreograph my moves for shots from either side.
 
Thanks Marty and Norbush for the excellent information. I appreciate you taking the time with such in-depth descriptions. Right after Christmas I will be out there. My son and his friends just got back from a trip to Missouri. The outfitter said don't even bother as rattling doesn't work on the bucks out there. Other than the ratio issue, I wonder why it doesn't?
 
I've never had success rattling, I just think the buck to doe ratio is so out of whack in my area that the bucks can easily find does. Yet I still try every year.
I like to set up like a coyote calling set, as they say bucks will almost always circle downwind first like coyotes do. I find a nice opening and then sit on the upwind end of it, trying to put my scent going right down the middle of it. The idea is to catch them coming into the opening but before they get clear to the center of it and hit my scent. Works for coyotes.
I've had coyotes come in to my rattling sets, but never a deer. I've had way more success with bleating them in during the rut.
 
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