Remove Teflon

[dragonfly]

I've done some research and have read that using any cleaners/lubricants containing Teflon can cause erratic shots. That's great. Been using Rem oil and Breakfree CLP and have read both contain Teflon. This could explain why I need so many shots before my groups tighten up.

Does anybody know a good way to get this stuff out of my barrel? :huh?:

 

[Muley Hunter]

Slippery stuff. Maybe an abrasive like JB will work.

 

[dbowling]

might try brake cleaner pretty strong stuff would think it would break it down, use outdoors though as fumes are really strong from it.

 

[Dougs136Schwartz]

I'm not trying to dispute you . In fact you have me a little concerned. With my target Knight rifles (which are exactly the same as my hunting rifles other than I run higher magnification on my scopes) if I know I will not be shooting the rifle in a while I run a patch down the bore with Rem oil . I can honestly say I have never seen any accuracy issues . I do exactly the same thing with my hunting rifles. But I shoot sabotless . I do not use sabots maybe that is the difference ?

 

[BuckDoeHunter]

My vote is brake cleaner then JB bore paste.

 

[Carbide8]

Brake clean. I coat muzzleloaders with break free clp for storage and clean with brake cleaner prior to shooting.
I don’t compete but I shoot a lot of animals from bh209 and smokeless alike. Give it a try and see how it works for you.

 

[Idaholewis]

I have been using this version of Rem oil in all of my Muzzleloaders from my very beginning in Muzzleloading Rifles, i shoot a lot and i have not seen any negative/ill effects in accuracy from using it. Before i load, i make sure and Dry my bores out REALLY well. I don’t use any oil of any kind in my Centerfire Rifles.

I will say that a Friend of mine, and Custom Barrel Maker Ron Cinema (Owner of Benchmark Barrels) from the Wa coast where i grew up swore AGAINST the use of Rem Oil, There is an old picture of Ron somewhere on the Web trying to clean Rem Oil from a Barrel. Ron told me the Problem with it came from guys firing a Fouler Shot down a Wet/Coated bore, Ron said that Rem Oil would “Caramelize” for lack of better words (But His Exact words) in the Bore and it was EXTREMELY difficult to Remove, He said that if a guy insisted on using Rem Oil to make DARN sure and Dry the bore thoroughly before shooting your rifle, But that he would use, and advise the use of anything But Rem Oil.

This is the version that i use in all of my Muzzleloaders

 

[Lee 9]

I had major problems with it coating the barrel. Now this was long ago and before I started scrubbing the barrel before the first shot was loaded and I was using sabots. I have no idea if it would affect a bare bullet.

 

[GM54-120]

Teflon serves zero purpose IN a bore. I cant think of any reason i would want it IN a bore. I can think of several reasons NOT to use it. Teflon burns, when it does it creates a residue and toxic fumes.

http://www.imageseek.com/m1a/M14_Preser ... cation.pdf

Experience of the U. S. Marine Corps found that when CLP containing PTFE additive was
left in the bore of a M14 rifle it would shoot erratically until the CLP had been blown out
after the first fifteen to twenty rounds of fire. The accuracy would return indicating the
washing out of the CLP with its PTFE additive


It melts at 621 degrees Fahrenheit.

At 680 degrees Fahrenheit - difluoroacetic acid (DFA), hexafluoropropene (HFP), monofluoroacetic acid (MFA), perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA),tetrafluoroethylene (TFE) and trifluoroacetic acid (TFA)

At 878 degrees Fahrenheit - silicon tetrafluoride (SiF4)

At 887 degrees Fahrenheit - perfluoroisobutene (PFIB)

At 932 degrees Fahrenheit - carbonyl fluoride (CFO2) and hydrofluoric acid (HF)

At 1,112 degrees Fahrenheit - octafluorocyclobutane (OFCB), perfluorobutane (PFB) andtrifluoroacetic acid fluoride (CF3COF)

At 1,202 degrees Fahrenheit - carbon tetrafluoride (CF4)

 

[dragonfly]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm just trying to figure out the reason I need to shoot a dozen rounds before my groups tighten up. I suspect Teflon. If it is Teflon, it could be that I need that many shots to either shoot it out or foul it up enough for the sabot to get a grip. I've been using Rem oil and Breakfree CLP and apparently, both contain Teflon. I'm going to scrub the hell out of it with brake cleaner then JB and stop using CLP and Rem oil and see what happens.

This gun will shoot after 12 rounds. this is shot 13,14,and 15

 

[Dougs136Schwartz]

Lots of great info guys .TY

 

[GM54-120]

Look at what the military is using now and what CLPs made the grade. There are only a handful. One is G96 synthetic and it does not contain Teflon. I have a gallon of Sentinel CLP. The current revision is Rev E. Its also one of the few on the list. It pops up for sale at gun shows from time to time.

Mineral oil based such as Ballistol and Montana Xtreme or true synthetics like Slip 2000 are your best bet for consumer grade products. These wont have any negative reactions with any powder. WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion is also a stellar product just for rust prevention but its not a true synthetic.

This stuff aint your typical WD or even close.

 

[Idaholewis]

I'm going to scrub the hell out of it with brake cleaner then JB and stop using CLP and Rem oil and see what happens

I am very interested to see if this clears up the problem?

 

[long shot]

Might try Lucas Bore solvent to oil barrel

 

[Idaholewis]

Teflon serves zero purpose IN a bore. I cant think of any reason i would want it IN a bore. I can think of several reasons NOT to use it. Teflon burns, when it does it creates a residue and toxic fumes.

http://www.imageseek.com/m1a/M14_Preser ... cation.pdf

Experience of the U. S. Marine Corps found that when CLP containing PTFE additive was
left in the bore of a M14 rifle it would shoot erratically until the CLP had been blown out
after the first fifteen to twenty rounds of fire. The accuracy would return indicating the
washing out of the CLP with its PTFE additive


It melts at 621 degrees Fahrenheit.

At 680 degrees Fahrenheit - difluoroacetic acid (DFA), hexafluoropropene (HFP), monofluoroacetic acid (MFA), perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA),tetrafluoroethylene (TFE) and trifluoroacetic acid (TFA)

At 878 degrees Fahrenheit - silicon tetrafluoride (SiF4)

At 887 degrees Fahrenheit - perfluoroisobutene (PFIB)

At 932 degrees Fahrenheit - carbonyl fluoride (CFO2) and hydrofluoric acid (HF)

At 1,112 degrees Fahrenheit - octafluorocyclobutane (OFCB), perfluorobutane (PFB) andtrifluoroacetic acid fluoride (CF3COF)

At 1,202 degrees Fahrenheit - carbon tetrafluoride (CF4)

Excellent Post GM54! A person might think why would i use Rem Oil when a Custom Barrel maker Friend of mine HIGHLY advises against it? He told me it wasn’t a problem as long as you THOROUGHLY Dry it out before Shooting (Which i do with my Muzzleloaders) And i simply haven’t had any issues of any kind Using it. BUT, I am definitely not against Switching to something else! I am VERY interested to see if the OP’s Problem Clears up after he Thoroughly cleans his barrel

 

[GM54-120]

As long as you clean the bore out really well before firing its fine. I do that with any oil but with stuff like the Montana Xtreme/synthetics it not quite as bad. I just use some 90% rubbing alcohol or ISO-HEET (its 100%) and a dry patch. With other petroleum based oils i crack out the brake clean to make sure its all out. You just need to be a bit more careful with brake clean. Some are harmful to plastics and its best to do it outside. The fumes suck.

I clean mine out the night before and pop a couple primers. I do this the night before a range session or a hunt.

 

[dragonfly]

I too clean the bore with alcohol before going to the range, always. I'm sure it removes the oil, but did it remove Teflon. :huh?:

I can't go to the range for a while, but I'm going to give it a good cleaning today. I hope I get good results. :yeah:

 

[GM54-120]

25-50 passes of JB Bore Cleaner once in awhile wont hurt a thing. Kinda overkill to use it all the time but when you think it needs a good scrubbing its great.

Use the one in the blue jar with a little Kroil. The JB in the red jar is a polish.

 

[dragonfly]

Yep...that's what I'm using.