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Spitpatch

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A while back I started to describe my perfect muzzle loader and realized what I had just wasn't that far off.

So I am taking my Elite to the next level. While it's not "exotic wood" I purchased a nice used Walnut stock in "mint" condition.
I was not able to purchase new from Knight as they don't offer stocks in Walnut anymore. So after exercising considerable patience and doing some extensive shopping, I was able to purchase two stocks in Walnut for the Disc Extreme, one perfect and the other with a few minor scratches. The latter will be a refinish project for my Elite 45.

I would like some opinions on gun stock finishes if you have done one yourself.

I then opened up the stock to fit the lug (really not that difficult).
I checked the fit with a $100 bill, and the barrel was floating perfectly.

I will install a Simms recoil pad, a leather sling, and the new bolt and breech plug for BH 209 when it becomes available.
I will then jewel the bolt. And have Knight install the spring loaded bolt detent, and it should be done.

Did I miss anything???

Oh...anyone need a composite stock in camo or black?



Sorry the pics turned out kinda blue....and the date is wrong...


elite1.jpg


elite2.jpg


elite3.jpg


elite4.jpg


:D
 
I like the wood stock--sounds like a great winter/spring project. You might as well change the recoil pad too. I like Kick-eez ones, or the Pachmayr Decelerators, buts that's JMO.

I always check my barrel's free float clearance with a $1 bill, but I guess a 100 works better, if you have one :D
 
That's pretty Spit. Wow, checking the barrel float with a $100 bill... now that's class! :wink:
 
The Dollar Bill clearance is not enough IMO. Depending on how flimsy the forend is I want anywhere from .050" up tp .100" clearance. Once that is done, give the action a good bed of epoxy and you are good to go.

As for finishes, any of the linseed type finishes are very nice looking and easy to maintain. Add a coat every year or so depending on use and it looks sharp. Add enough layers to get the finish built up once the grain is filled. I used ths spray oil finishon a laminated stock with good results. The grain was filled by the lamination process so no grain filling was needed.

I have used polyurethane finishes also with good results. Some of them can yellow over time so watch for that. The standard Helmsman Spar polyurethane works fine.

This stuff gives a tough epoxy coating like the factgory Remington BDL stocks have.
 
finish

Any of the linseed finishes. Burchwood Casey's or linspeed . 6 or 8 coates each steel wooled down to a satin type finish then a coat of wax will do the trick. You might consider putting in another action screw to stabilize the action in the stock. Not too tough to do.
Wayles
 
Re: finish

wayles said:
Any of the linseed finishes. Burchwood Casey's or linspeed . 6 or 8 coates each steel wooled down to a satin type finish then a coat of wax will do the trick. You might consider putting in another action screw to stabilize the action in the stock. Not too tough to do.
Wayles

Wayles can you splain to me how that extra screw is done?
 
Thats one fine lookin shootin iron. Nicely done. +1 for linseed.
 
Extra screw

Spit
I do believe I can explain it. First off I have not done mine yet but just because time has not permitted. The screw will be located approx 1.5 inches behind the first screw towards the butt. I plan to glass the action and lug first. { doing it later after the screw installation might glue the action in the stock]Now with every thing stripped off the top and the bolt removed and the first screw tight [scope mounts off] mark the top of the action where you want it to come out on the bottom in front of the trigger guard. Place the gun in a padded vise [milling machine vise or real good drill press] level the gun to where the drill path enters and exits in your chosen spots. Useing the tap drill size for the bolt size chosen drill down thru the action tube all the way thru the stock. While still in the vise follow the tap drill with the tap. After taping the action tube remove the action and open up the hole in the stock a few thou. to allow for the machine screw clearence. Choose the correct countersink for the bolt you are going to use and counter sink the stock to the correct depth. Because of the thinnes of metal in this area a large screw will not be possible. The bolt size should not exceed the thickness of the metal. I'm guessing because I have not measured it but approx a 10-24 or 32 will be about right . Dia. of screw should not exceed the thickness of the tube. The length of the screw can't protrude thru the tube or it would lock up the bolt. In a wood stock the screw should probably be pillared. It should be fine in a synthetic with out it. I wish there was a spot where more separation in the screws could obtained but this should lend some stability and take out the tendency to teeter totter when the trigger is pulled. Good luck if I havent made my self clear, just ask
Wayles
 
Nice gun. I like the looks of the wood stock and stainless barrel. I have a Boyd's laminate thumbhole set on the way for my Endeavor. Just like the way it looks and feels. Let us know how it shoots when you get finished.
 
r1n7ft.jpg


I had to play a little with the one that I think is best of the stock. Definitely a nice looking rifle.
 

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