Something simple..but Knight got this right!

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big6x6

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You know...One of the most troublesome/ridiculous THINGS for me is muzzleloader sabot/bullet packaging. So many I can't even get in to...if I do some are a all or none proposition... Either they are ALL coming out or none are! Or after opening the container..it doesn't stay shut and the bullets/sabots are everywhere! Well, hats off to the folks at Knight Rifles for the newer packaging on their saboted bullets!



IMG_0113.JPG

Closes securely

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Opens EASILY

BRILLIANT! .....and REUSEABLE!

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SO simple! LOVE IT!
 
Wow.... sure beats Barnes and their terrible blister packs!
 
Chuck, was your group with the new Disc shot with the EZ loads?
 
I like those too Chuck. How do you like those new blue EZ Load Sabots? That PBT Bullet with the yellow sabots in my knight shoot like a laser, but would like to know if the EZ Loads would be too loose? Do they have thinner petals or is it just a slicker polymer?
 
Busta, they load very easy in my MHC; maybe too loose for Blackhorn. They did shoot awesome with 777 though... after seeing your results, I ordered some 250 PBT with the yellow sabots.
 
Just a little accuracy tip I'll share. I am very anal about loading sabots, but can't argue with the results on the Knight yellow sabots and Barnes PBT bullets. I align every sabot the same way, so the rifling (8 lands in a Knight) engages the sabot the same way each time. There are 4 petals on these sabots, and 8 Lands in the barrel = 2 lands per petal. I know some people are rolling their eyes right about now, but if you want to know MY secret, keep reading.

Basically, I am indexing the sabots so each one has 2 lands putting equal pressure on each petal. If you think about it, what good is it doing you to have a land running down through the split in the petals? That would only give you 4 lands actually doing the work and 4 lands basically just riding in the crease. Just find a point where you can line the petals up with the rifling where 2 lands start at one side of the petal cutting diagonally across the petal, giving it the maximum ammount a bearing surface. This also gives a slightly tighter fit. Still think I am crazy? Try it! :wink:

Here is a pic of some of these yellow sabots, (knock on wood) I have shot a 100, 110, and 120 grain BH209 group with these bullets/sabots, all were under MOA. This doesn't need to be perfect, just maximum use of the sabot.

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I can't argue with the results.

100 grains.
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110 grains.
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120 grains.
021-1.jpg
 
Great shooting Busta...Your target paper will be the new sales poster for Blackhorn209. :D

Chocdog
 
Still think I am crazy? Try it!

Busta...
Sounds like you're on something...I mean on TO something! :lol: Yeah that is good shooting. Maybe I'll give that a try too!


I like those too Chuck. How do you like those new blue EZ Load Sabots? That PBT Bullet with the yellow sabots in my knight shoot like a laser, but would like to know if the EZ Loads would be too loose? Do they have thinner petals or is it just a slicker polymer?

Chuck, was your group with the new Disc shot with the EZ loads?

Those groups WERE shot with the Barnes EZ load. No difference in the sabot EXCEPT...with bullet IN the sabot, the yellow sabot mics out in Athens, AL at 0.504 while the EZ Load/blue mics out at 0.500. :shock: They almost seat too easily but still shoot pretty good! The KRB will hang-fire some with those and BH209 with the LRH/Disc Extreme have no problems.
 
Thanks Chuck, guess I'll stick with the yellow sabots.
 
Busta!!

I always load mine like that! :)

It is the best way to load consistantly
 
I have honestly never even thought about that. I went out last night and shot to relieve a little finals frustration and poor planting weather. Tonight I will definitly try it.

I have no idea how many lands are in the Omega or 10 ml. Hopefully it will work out in them.
 
Well I'm glad that I'm not the only one that does this. I never mentioned it cause I figured you would all think I was half a bubble off of plum. Being consistent is the key to accuaracy right?
 
I thought every one has done that for years. I started doing that when I first found some sabots with petals broke off back when they first came out with the Thunderhawk.
 
Preacher said to index your sabots long ago but Busta's method is slightly different.

Let's face it, we all know everything now. :wink:
 
Underclocked said:
Preacher said to index your sabots long ago but Busta's method is slightly different.

Let's face it, we all know everything now. :wink:

The more I learn the less I know.
 
Anyone have advice on indexing your sabots on the T/C Omega with the QLA? Would seem to be rather tricky or take a lot of trial and error to find the exact location of the lands down past the QLA?
Thx
Marty
 
Critter said:
Well I'm glad that I'm not the only one that does this. I never mentioned it cause I figured you would all think I was half a bubble off of plum. Being consistent is the key to accuaracy right?

Critter,

Half a bubble off plumb is still better than being plumb level. :lol:

Kimber7man,

If you have a sabot color other than black color it up with a black Sharpie? and use an index point such as your front sight. Sacrafice one bullet and sabot, you can still shoot it later so it is not wasted. Color up one side and push it down into the rifling, push it back out from the breech end. Repeat until you find where yours lines up. It sure beats the alternative of trying to find the exact last sabot you shot. A little trial and error is involved, not all rifling starts and stops at exactly the same spot on all barrels. You will need to determine where yours starts at the muzzle. Any part of the sabot that extends past the wall of the bullet, up on the ojive is just along for the ride anyways and it is not as important where the rifling is up there.

All sabots are not created equally, some have petals that extend all the way to the base, others such as the ones on the Knight/Barnes bullets pictured above stop short of the boat-tail. The only thing gripping that bullet is the base and petals of the sabot, why not get the maximum use out of your rifling.

You can also use the Sharpie? to number your sabots to find out where your sabots like to be indexed. You can number your sabots and bullet holes in your group to figure out what might have caused that flyer. But that would risk being tagged as Plum Crazy! :shock: :lol:

Like Critter said earlier, consistency is the key to accuracy! And that don't stop at just the sabot, it is just one of the many variables. Barrel temperature/fouling, powder measuring, seating pressure, steady rest, breath control, trigger squeeze, wind conditions and several other things also factor into accuracy.

The best thing about BH209 is that you can just load and shoot, no swabbing to worry about. :D
 
Sorry Chuck for de-railing your thread, must be the DWB in me. I'll try to do better. :oops:

I still love those Knight packing boxes, but love what comes in them even better. They are without any doubt, the most accurate and consistent saboted bullet I have ever shot. I don't know how much the BH209, Knight Disc Ext MHC, S&W scope, Leupold rings and bases, Win W209 primers, and other things factor into it, but I aint changing a thing.

There I go again. :roll:
 
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