Stopping browning in safe..

[Mofish]

I have developed a problem in one of my safes that I think is a result of a browning job I did some time back. I browned up a rifle...which I have done quite a few times before... and left it in a safe afterward. Somehow it seems like the safe wants to work like a browning cabinet or something since, and I am getting a rusting problem on other firearms since. It seems like it takes quite a while to effect the blues firearms, and they are all nice and oily to keep it away. I use a lot of RIG grease on the blued ones, and they still develop rust !
I am thinking maybe I need to treat the inside of the safe with something to neutralize the process going on, but have never faced this problem before. The inside of the safe is lined with thin carpet like material and maybe it's holding the browning/rusting problem in it?
I was toying with the idea of spraying down the inside of the safe with a mixture of baking soda and water maybe? I think my only other alternative is ripping out all the fabric from the safe as well. I don't think dessicant will be any solution to my problem and I can't see adding any heat from a golden rod as the garage where I keep the safe is already pretty hot most of the time. 
Any ideas out there to help with this problem?

 

[strong eagle]

put a low watt light bulb in your safe and it will solve the problem. drill a hole in it for the cord and a low watt cool semi cool bulb will do the trick.

 

[Two Feathers]

I have developed a problem in one of my safes that I think is a result of a browning job I did some time back. I browned up a rifle...which I have done quite a few times before... and left it in a safe afterward. Somehow it seems like the safe wants to work like a browning cabinet or something since, and I am getting a rusting problem on other firearms since. It seems like it takes quite a while to effect the blues firearms, and they are all nice and oily to keep it away. I use a lot of RIG grease on the blued ones, and they still develop rust !
I am thinking maybe I need to treat the inside of the safe with something to neutralize the process going on, but have never faced this problem before. The inside of the safe is lined with thin carpet like material and maybe it's holding the browning/rusting problem in it?
I was toying with the idea of spraying down the inside of the safe with a mixture of baking soda and water maybe? I think my only other alternative is ripping out all the fabric from the safe as well. I don't think dessicant will be any solution to my problem and I can't see adding any heat from a golden rod as the garage where I keep the safe is already pretty hot most of the time. 
Any ideas out there to help with this problem?

Mofish
This is just a shot in the dark, but before you destroy your safe, try putting an open box of Baking soda in the bottom of the safe? It's natural alkaline properties should neutralize the acidic air and draw it in, thereby eliminating the problem without damaging any other gun finishes? Again. just a though, but worth the $.50 investment to find out?
Good luck:
Stoney

 

[Mofish]

I might have to try that with the baking soda. I'm thinking maybe some big plates of it sitting in there might help?

 

[Two Feathers]

I might have to try that with the baking soda. I'm thinking maybe some big plates of it sitting in there might help?

I don't see where it can hurt?? unless you dump it all over the inside of the safe.  :thumbs up: :shock: Let me know how it works, please!
Stoney

 

[Mofish]

On another forum, one member posted a site referencing Chinese drywall being used in housing and problems it caused. I'm thinking maybe this might be my problem in the safe. The drywall has a Sulphur content that leads to similar problems in houses...including corrosion of wiring and such. I have noticed ammo left in the safe tends to get a frosted look to the brass with nothing left shiny. 
I guess maybe I should just try to strip out the safe and start over...which will be a real project. I don't have the normal movable shelves in it as they are all fixed solidly in it, as well as the racks to lean the long guns against.

 

[Two Feathers]

On another forum, one member posted a site referencing Chinese drywall being used in housing and problems it caused. I'm thinking maybe this might be my problem in the safe. The drywall has a Sulphur content that leads to similar problems in houses...including corrosion of wiring and such. I have noticed ammo left in the safe tends to get a frosted look to the brass with nothing left shiny. 
I guess maybe I should just try to strip out the safe and start over...which will be a real project. I don't have the normal movable shelves in it as they are all fixed solidly in it, as well as the racks to lean the long guns against.

Mofish
 I didn't know they used Drywall in them? I thought they were just steel and carpet? It sounds like quite an undertaking, but if it saves your guns then I guess it's worth it? Just remember, don't lose the fire proof integrity of your safe in the process. You might consider replacing the Chinese drywall with some good American made fire rated drywall? But whatever you choose to do, good luck.
God bless:
Stoney

 

[Buck Conner1]

Many of today's safes are advertised as being fireproof, their fireproofing is nothing more than 5/8" drywall like used in your attached garage to meet fire code.  I asked my neighbor down the street about your problem (works for a safe company here in Lehi - Liberty Safe Co.).  He suggested removing the carpet and check your fire proofing it may be holding moisture from your last browning job. If it feels damp replace it with new drywall (same thickness as you have now).

 

[Buck Conner1]

 I didn't know they used Drywall in them? I thought they were just steel and carpet? It sounds like quite an undertaking, but if it saves your guns then I guess it's worth it? Just remember, don't lose the fire proof integrity of your safe in the process. You might consider replacing the Chinese drywall with some good American made fire rated drywall? But whatever you choose to do, good luck.
God bless:
Stoney

Stoney the drywall in my safe and ones we use to sell at Cabela's all used and are advertised "Made in the USA" (that includes everything in them - USA products). The cheap stack safes are made in China. 

As far as integrity of being fireproof - forget it. My nephew does fire claims for several insurance companies. Gun safes are a metal cooker, very few survive a fire (very low percentage). There is always damage with smoke, heat and water. "Fireproof" is a selling statement that doesn't hold water.

 

[Mofish]

Something in the safe is creating my problem...I don't see anything else that could be doing it. I don't see any way around just replacing the entire interior and getting it over with. I am getting close to finishing cleaning and coating all the firearms from the safe...and it's been a job. When I am through with that, then the safe project will get underway.

 

[Sparkitoff1]

There's a thing called a "Golden Rod".  It is a safe dehumidifier.  I have great luck with one over the years. I don't know what kind of moisture or humidity you are dealing with but I live on the coast and it works for me.

 

[Sparkitoff1]

There's a thing called a "Golden Rod".  It is a safe dehumidifier.  I have great luck with one over the years. I don't know what kind of moisture or humidity you are dealing with but I live on the coast and it works for me.

 

[strong eagle]

i think sparkitoff is a good way to go. however could it be a type of galvanic action in the safe it self? two types of metal joined together can cause some strange galvanic elec. current and ruin a lot of things. in a village 30 miles from me they have a small museum with a glase case and their is a old in good shape ssa army. looking closely at it i could see rust starting to occur on it. i told them about it and suggested what sparkit off said and i dont know if they did it or not.

 

[Buck Conner1]

I have used Golden Rods as well as several desiccant air dryer containers to keep check on moisture. There's no way to tell if the Golden Rod is doing its job, the reason for using desiccant along with the Rod.

The reason for the desiccant is when it has gathered what it can the blue color of the pellets turn pink telling you the need to be removed and recharge. Place the desiccant containers in the oven on high for 3-4 hours and they are back to square one (blue) and ready for use again. 

I have lots of experience with this produce as we have used it at the phone company even before it was available to the public. Bell Labs developed the original product back in the 1950's to keep moisture out of the phone cables.

The desiccant containers with compressed [font=Roboto, arial, sans-serif]air dryer[/font] is used for removing water vapor from compressed [font=Roboto, arial, sans-serif]air[/font]. Compressed [font=Roboto, arial, sans-serif]air dryers[/font] are commonly found in a wide range of industrial and commercial facilities. The process of [font=Roboto, arial, sans-serif]air [/font]compression concentrates atmospheric contaminants, including water vapor into desiccant containers.

The manufacturers of desiccant today have paid Bell Labs allot of money for the right to use this patented product. When I need more of it I run down a cable splicer in the phone company, they always have at least a 100 lbs on their trucks. 

Most of the sporting goods stores sell it in handy 5 lb. boxes, great product to use with the Golden Rod.

 

[Mofish]

This is what I found after I started taking the sheetrock off of the door. This portion was between two layers of sheetrock...and is obviously a problem. I talked to the safe manufacturer today via e-mail and sent them a group of pic's. They are supposed to get back to me tomorrow. I have had the safe about 3 years or so, and it's supposed to have a 5 yr. warranty. Let's see if they will stand behind it??

 

[Two Feathers]

This is what I found after I started taking the sheetrock off of the door. This portion was between two layers of sheetrock...and is obviously a problem. I talked to the safe manufacturer today via e-mail and sent them a group of pic's. They are supposed to get back to me tomorrow. I have had the safe about 3 years or so, and it's supposed to have a 5 yr. warranty. Let's see if they will stand behind it??

Mofish
 Obviously something is causing the steel to rust? They should have coated the steel before they covered it. I'm curious to see if the company will honor their warranty? I'm looking for a gun safe right now, but not for guns, for cash. Please let me know the manufacturer and what they say!? Thanks.
Stoney

 

[Buck Conner1]

Metal is metal, it rusts because of moisture. Do you have your safe on a platform, is it off the concrete floor - these are things that the safe manufacturers tell you in fine print. Concrete hoids moisture from underneath (ground) - most people don't pay attention to this fact. 

If its not off the floor get yourself some 2X6's and builds a frame to get it up, pickup some rust remover and primer and paint, finish the inside (which none of the manufacturers do per a 2014 survey). That would raise the cost and it's cheaper for you to do this and know it's done correctly than pay additional for a safe. 

My three safes have everything mentioned: 
<a href='/tags/1' rel='nofollow' title='See all tagged subjects with: #1'>#1</a>). off the concrete on a platform, 
<a href='/tags/2' rel='nofollow' title='See all tagged subjects with: #2'>#2</a>). primed and painted inside, 
<a href='/tags/3' rel='nofollow' title='See all tagged subjects with: #3'>#3</a>). Golden Rod and Desiccant cans installed.

 

[Mofish]

Maybe I am not looking at things properly, but I have some guns in the same area as my safes, sitting in gun racks ...not in the safes. No rusting problems with them..  I do not have a humid or wet area where my safes are stored. I have no rust problems with any of my guns, either in or out of safes...with the exception of this one. The door seems to have a nice tight seal and it gets no moisture or humidity from outside of it....the rusting only occurs inside of it !
The safe company said they will contact me Tuesday regarding my problem.

 

[Two Feathers]

Maybe I am not looking at things properly, but I have some guns in the same area as my safes, sitting in gun racks ...not in the safes. No rusting problems with them..  I do not have a humid or wet area where my safes are stored. I have no rust problems with any of my guns, either in or out of safes...with the exception of this one. The door seems to have a nice tight seal and it gets no moisture or humidity from outside of it....the rusting only occurs inside of it !
The safe company said they will contact me Tuesday regarding my problem.

Mofish
 This sounds like a chemically induced problem? Have you changed "Upkeep product" brands recently? Like a new brand of gun cleaner and or/ oil? To me it sounds like chemicals Not Playing well together? Anything acidic will cause this problem, like some brand of citrus based gun cleaner. Just a shot in the dark?
 Now you have me curious!? I know this is not a quizzical problem for you, it's a serious issue, but I find it curiously interesting. Please let me know what they say, once you folks get a handle on this problem! Good luck.
Stoney

 

[Buck Conner1]

It's moisture, the concrete holds moisture and changes with temperature change which can cause humidity changes in anything touching the concrete. Look at the bottom of a piece of furniture sitting on the concrete floor for a period of time (look at the finish on the bottom of the piece, many times you'll see a difference in the finish from the top to the bottom - moisture). 

Antique dealers to moving companies fight this all the time, today they use climate controlled vaults. Look at a vehicle that sits for any length of time on concrete - when moved you'll see where the tires have left their mark.

Stoney your going the wrong direction with your cleaner idea.