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Idaholewis

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I was gonna delete this video but decided it might be worth a look, I gathered my gear together this morning and went to shoot at the Sandpit up the Rd, I really wanted to try out my new Camera (i have some learning to do :lol: ) This is my .45 Cal Green Mountain LRH barrel in a TC Hawken Stock, Williams FP Hawken tang Peep with Target knobs and large 1” Eye piece, Lyman 17AHB Globe with a Lee Shaver’s Circle insert to match the Bull. The bullets were my the last 5 of edmehlig’s Lyman Gould Hollow Points. I looked up my load data from the last time i shot these and it showed i used a .060 Vege Fibre on the Powder, then a Wool felt on Top (Wish i had just went with Wool felt ONLY) But i shot 1 of my best ever 100 yard Groups with this exact Combo back in the Early Spring, But For some reason it was a BIG FAIL this morning??? This stuff never ceases to amaze me!

Easy on me here, this is my first attempt at this Video shooting stuff! I see now how to cut this in half, or even less. It was a Good Trial run for me with my Camera, But the first 3 Shots were a BIG FAIL, I hope to retry this in the morning with Wool Felt ONLY, And Lyman Gould Solids, or possibly my own Gould Hollow points.

[youtube]aa8S2aDjodk[/youtube]
 
Here was my very first outing with this exact same combo, Why it worked so well 1 time and not again is beyond me? This morning was definitely not Ed’s Gould Hollow points, i have shot them in 2 Different rifles and they did very well, i shot a Good Group with them in Forum member Harleysboss’s Rifle when he came and shot with me. The .060 Vege Fibre Wads with GG bullets are a hit n miss deal for whatever reason? The Vege Fiber Wads have always done very well with my PP bullets, But i am done with them and my GG bullets after this morning, Wool Felt alone has been a Winner for me with my GG bullets

This was back in the Early Spring, Target was a true 100 yards
ectTBjr.jpg


ev76RKz.jpg
 
Watched your video - it turned out really well.

You never mention where your Point of Aim was I am assuming it what the middle of the black bull.. If it was you are a better man than I. With open sights and a post as a front sight - it is very difficult for me to see that I am actually holding on the same spot for each shot.

I have gone to fabricating my own target or using a 'V' target to get me more confident that I am shooting nearly the same POA @ 100 yards.

This is one of my fabrications - I take a peel and stick bull cut it in half and stick it on the paper target. I can get a very good sight picture consistently hold the black diamond in the middle of the bull, and I use a 6:00 hold on all targets so what I want to hit is just above the bead.

Lehigh_451-230.jpg


This is the other target that I use quite often - it also works well for me.

DHawken.jpg


But back to your shooting - not sure what might be going on with the wad thing. I have never used a true veggie wad just prelubed wool wads, shot cards, and mmp sub bases in a 50 cal.

Do you know what velocity you are shooting these bullets at?
 
Mike, For my front sight i am using a Lee Shavers Circle insert to Match the Black Bull, when i get the right Circle insert in the Globe front sight i can just barely see a little bit of white around the edge of the Black bull, For targets i much prefer the Circle Apertures matched with the Bull, I use to swear by the fine Lee Shaver’s Post bead, but after shooting these circles i have gone to them only for Targets, For hunting the Fine bead will be what i use. As for Velocity I don’t know for sure what these are doing? I need to take my Chronograph along and test them. These darn Vege Fibre OP Wads are crazy! I have an AMAZING outing, and then a Crapshoot the next time? This only happens with my GG bullets, The .060 Vege Fibre Wads work GREAT with my Paper Patched bullets. These .060 Vege Fibre Wads look a WHOLE lot like the Nitro Cards you speak of using, just not as thick, I have those as well, But my luck has been the same with them, Hit and Miss
 
Rlsmith said:
I really enjoyed the video keep them coming

Thanks RL, I was actually gonna delete this video :lol: But i figured it might shed some light on what I’ve been saying about the Hard card wads being a Hit and Miss deal with Grease Groove bullets. There really is no need for them, I just decided to try the Vege Fibre and Wool felt combo together to see what happened? I have shot some REALLY good Groups in the past doing this, But i have also shot some NOT so great Groups, Like this morning! But at the end of the Video when i shot my last 2 shots with just Wool it showed that the Vege Fibre wasn’t working. It’s a shame I didn’t have anymore to shoot, i am Confident they would have Pounded right in there with my last 2 Shots. Hopefully i can Retry this Tomorrow morning with just the 1/8” Wool Felt OP Wads and Prove it :yeah:
 
Idaholewis said:
Mike, For my front sight i am using a Lee Shavers Circle insert to Match the Black Bull, when i get the right Circle insert in the Globe front sight i can just barely see a little bit of white around the edge of the Black bull, For targets i much prefer the Circle Apertures matched with the Bull, I use to swear by the fine Lee Shaver’s Post bead, but after shooting these circles i have gone to them only for Targets, For hunting the Fine bead will be what i use. As for Velocity I don’t know for sure what these are doing? I need to take my Chronograph along and test them. These darn Vege Fibre OP Wads are crazy! I have an AMAZING outing, and then a Crapshoot the next time? This only happens with my GG bullets, The .060 Vege Fibre Wads work GREAT with my Paper Patched bullets. These .060 Vege Fibre Wads look a WHOLE lot like the Nitro Cards you speak of using, just not as thick, I have those as well, But my luck has been the same with them, Hit and Miss

I can understand how those circle inserts probably work well with targets... but I know myself I would be more concerned that I had the perfect circle all the way around the insert - I would probably never get the best shot... I can however pot a dot on a post and be able to shoot with decent confidence. Just have not shot circle inserts since high school ROTC shooting team and then again how big of an error can get in 50'.

You are shooting Swiss and 3f which is very energetic powder - have you ever compared that with Swiss 2f?

What volume is your load? Again I am wondering about leading the bore especially behind the lands. I was once told that I should not shoot full bore lead above 1200fps as it would really speed the lead trapped in the bore. I have no idea for sure?

Additionally you mention you patch the bore clean (near clean) after each shot - have you ever tried just shooting without patching to see what your groups might do. With the T7 that I use and shooting caps I really never have to run a patch after shooting... normally I do run one patch up and down once - in fact I use the same patch for several shots. This way, I am shooting what I call a 'semi fouled' bore just as I would while hunting.

Another thing I have done with my LRH barrels is I have 'soft' bedded the barrel to a certain extent in front of the wedge key. And there is no way that I can be positive of this but from watching the video I really wonder if your 'barrel harmonics' are changing your POI.

O - one more thing - I am really surprised that you can shoot paper patch with Swiss and not burn right through the paper. That is the reason I went to the shot card with the Bull Shops. They certainly are not needed - but in my case I was melting the bottom of the bullet with the heat created shooting T7 so they act as an insulator.
 
I shoot veg wads on my Knight with GG bullets. Doesn't quite mean it won't work in another rifle.
 
Good job on the video. Now for you forum members..He Ain't No Movie Star For SURE! I've met him.. trust me on this...LOL But I can tell you ,he can shoot so maybe it was the camera jitters :poke: Keep up the good work
 
Thank you fellas! This video making is some serious business :lol: I got some learning to do for sure, I need to learn the settings on this Little Camera etc. I plan to try this again in the morning, The video will be much shorter, You Guy’s seen my setup so that’s out of the way, And them Turkeys! :lol: I was gonna redo the Lyman Gould in the morning with Wool Felt Wads ONLY, but I don’t have anymore of them Made up, That Will have to wait til i fire up my Casting stuff again, I assure ya those bullets shoots REALLY well. I was comfortable this morning and my Shots felt SOLID, The Vege Fibre/Wool Combo wasn’t working for me this morning? You can see that by my last 2 Shots in the Video when I switched to Wool Felt ONLY. Since I don’t have anymore Lyman Goulds Made up, I will Shoot my Accurate molds #46-380M With the same 70 Weight Grains of Swiss 3F, And 1/8” Wool Felt OP Wads only.

When i get back over to BACO i will pick up another Box of .444-400 PP bullets and Go out Loooooong Range, My 500 yard place is gonna be a Tough one since they Blocked all of that off, I will have to Pack in to it. Packing this 60 pound Steel Gong about 600 yards across that Old Logging unit, and up on that Hillside doesn’t sound like something i wanna Jump up and do first thing in the morning :lol: But i will likely end up doing it after we Get some Rain, It is DANGEROUSLY Dry here right now. The place i shot today is about the Safest spot i know within reasonable Driving distance, I have to get out there at Daylight to beat the kids on 4wheelers and Dirt bikes, They tear the heck out of that Spot, Even 4wheel drive pickups.
 
sabotloader said:
I can understand how those circle inserts probably work well with targets... but I know myself I would be more concerned that I had the perfect circle all the way around the insert - I would probably never get the best shot... I can however pot a dot on a post and be able to shoot with decent confidence. Just have not shot circle inserts since high school ROTC shooting team and then again how big of an error can get in 50'.

You are shooting Swiss and 3f which is very energetic powder - have you ever compared that with Swiss 2f?

What volume is your load? Again I am wondering about leading the bore especially behind the lands. I was once told that I should not shoot full bore lead above 1200fps as it would really speed the lead trapped in the bore. I have no idea for sure?

Additionally you mention you patch the bore clean (near clean) after each shot - have you ever tried just shooting without patching to see what your groups might do. With the T7 that I use and shooting caps I really never have to run a patch after shooting... normally I do run one patch up and down once - in fact I use the same patch for several shots. This way, I am shooting what I call a 'semi fouled' bore just as I would while hunting.

Another thing I have done with my LRH barrels is I have 'soft' bedded the barrel to a certain extent in front of the wedge key. And there is no way that I can be positive of this but from watching the video I really wonder if your 'barrel harmonics' are changing your POI.

O - one more thing - I am really surprised that you can shoot paper patch with Swiss and not burn right through the paper. That is the reason I went to the shot card with the Bull Shops. They certainly are not needed - but in my case I was melting the bottom of the bullet with the heat created shooting T7 so they act as an insulator.

Mike, These Circle inserts are ABSOLUTELY Amazing when Matched with the Black Aiming Bull, There is definitely a reason Guy’s like Shaver’s, and Dave Gullo, Just to name a Few use them out to 1,000 Yards and Beyond, They Work EXTREMELY well! Dave Gullo asked me way back what i was using? This was before i had tried the Circles, At that time i was using the Shaver’s fine bead insert, Dave gave me kind of a funny look and said really? I asked him what he used? He told me he preferred the Circles, That he liked to “See what he wanted to hit” And then after Visiting with Lee Shaver’s over the Phone a few times I decided i had to get a Card of Lee’s Circles and try them, After i tried them i was hooked! The BIG Key is Matching them to your Target, From my bench i take the Time to Swap them out until i find the Size that gives me the best sight picture.

I shoot Swiss exclusively, Both 2, and 3F, I have tested the Difference in Volume to Weight Grains Several times and it comes out REALLY REALLY close. I find that 70 Weight Grains of Swiss 3F and 80 Weight Grains of 2F Run Really close. I have never actually used my Volume Measurers, I have 2 really nice ones, But i choose to weigh my Charges out in Weight Grains (My Old mentality from YEARS of Reloading Centerfire i guess?) I pre weigh my charges to the 10th of a Grain and place them in my Vials. And when i Cast my bullets i am REALLY Picky with what I keep, I am looking for perfect bases, even if they all weigh the same but my Bases aren’t “Sharp” They Go back in the Lead pot, I start keeping bullets when my bases are fully filled out and “Sharp” Then they all get Weighed, when everything is right my bullets will weigh right on with eachother, or within a 1/2 Grain Which is very acceptable. My No. 1 Goal in this stuff is the best Accuracy i can possibly get from My Rifles, By taking out EVERY possible variable i can i feel like it gives me an edge.

I have NEVER had a problem with Leading, I have Shot 130 Grain Maxi Balls from my .36 Senecas at 1800 FPS and stil no leading.

My Swabbing Routine is 1 Wet Patch with excess “Rung” out, I run that in and short stroke the Crud Ring Area several short 2-3” Strokes, Then out and Drop it. I then run 2, maybe 3 Dry ones. I cap my rifle and point it Straight down at the Ground and pop that Cap off, You would be amazed at the Crud that breaks loose from the Fire channel/Patented breech. Then i reload

I followed your steps and bedded this Rifle just like yours :yeah: I am Confident the Problem this morning was the 2 Wad Combo wasn’t working, i have seen it before, My Lyman 292 Grain bullet did this EXACT same thing, This is why after my 3rd shot this morning when i seen it wasn’t gonna work, i chose to shoot my last 2 Shots with Wool Felt OP Wad ONLY, And those 2 shots were about a Half inch apart. Oddly, The 2 Wad Combo worked like a Dream back in the Spring?

On my PP bullets i find the Majority of my papers within 15 feet or so of the Muzzle, Lot of times i can see them Floating to the Ground, In all of my papers i have looked at i have not seen any sign of Burning? The .060 Vege Fibre, or 1/8 Wool Felt OP Wad Seals the Gasses, The Bullet bases are fully protected by the OP Wad, When you touch a shot off, the Bullet “Bumps up” and fills the Bore. I find the Twisted Tails (Bases) of my Papers a large majority of the Time, No sign of Burn?
 
Mike, I set this 1 up for you, i will try and Recover this paper tomorrow on Video to show you no burn, I should find it Within 15 feet or so of the Gun. This Powder charge is the same as the 5 Grease Grooves i plan to shoot, 70 Weight Grains of Swiss 3F and a Wool OP Wad.

MqN2SMs.jpg
 
Idaholewis said:
Mike, I set this 1 up for you, i will try and Recover this paper tomorrow on Video to show you no burn, I should find it Within 15 feet or so of the Gun. This Powder charge is the same as the 5 Grease Grooves i plan to shoot, 70 Weight Grains of Swiss 3F and a Wool OP Wad.

MqN2SMs.jpg

I didn't know that with the paper patch you also use a wad - so that explains that in my mind.

Your weight comparison of 2f/3f sounds about what I would expect, do you know the ratio of the weight to the volumn - o nevermind since I have been told Swiss and T7 are so close together in pressure/velocity produced - since I am guessing I can work with that in my mind.

T7-2f weighs right at 77.7 for 100 grains volume. Can not say that I have ever shot a large lead conical, well actually I have never shot any lead, even PRB's with that steep a charge.

Shooting the circle insterts for long range paper targets shooting probably would be a huge help... what about shooting animal shaped gongs at long ranges. Thought the did a lot of that at the big shoots?

Also certainly understand weighing your charges for paper shooting. I would also break out the scales for that especially at long range. I guess I am really glad that I am just a hunter and I should qualify that be saying an old - really old - hunter!

It still seems to me that for your endevors it would be critical to be shooting through a chrono to check velocities. It seems velocities would tell you a great deal about what you powder load and projectile are doing.

But... If you were to find the perfect charge and the perfect projectile what would you do with all that extra time???
 

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