Range Report 3.0: .50 Renegade with Sized Hornady Great Plains Bullets

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Just as Montana's Heritage Muzzy season opened on 9 December, I squeezed in two more shooting sessions. All bullets were Hornady Great Plains, sized to .501 and lubed with SPG-I (8 oz SPG + 1 oz ALOX + 2.6 oz Stihl Ultra HD 2-Cycle oil. All shooting was done over a solid bench at 50 yards. All velocities were measured with a Caldwell Ballistics chronograph. All powder was Triple - 7 which was purchased no earlier than December 2022, and was opened the previous week. Between all shots I swabbed with one patch that was moistened (not sloppy wet) with Hornady Muzzleloader One-Shot, followed by 2 dry patches. All caps were Dynamit Nobel 1075s. Here are the results:

Day 1, 9 December:

1. Five shots with 70 grs T7 - 3F, weighed (W), no wads. 4 shots went into a 2 1/2 inch circle, one was a flier that landed about 2 inches out. Velocities ranged from 1448 fps (2 shots) to 1575 (2 shots).

2. Five shots with 70 grs T7-2F W, no wads. Group size 1 1/2 inches, with the first three shots touching in a neat little clover leaf. Velocities ranged from 1379 to 1432.

Pretty clear that the T7-3F is producing some strange combustion dynamics in loads that are heavier than 60 grs W. At 50 yards accuracy was still sort of OK with the 3F, but with that big a range of velocities, accuracy would be very poor at ranges of 100 yards or greater. At this point, I decided to go with 2F for all future development.

3. 5 shots with 70 grs W of T7-2F, with a .54 dia, 1/8 thick lubricated wool wad between the bullet and powder. The wads were loaded according to the procedure in an Idaho Lewis video that can be seen here: Felt wad over powder. Velocities ranged from 1389 to 1425, with an average of 1402. Despite the slightly improved velocity consistency, group size blew up to 7 (!) inches, with 3 of the 5 shots landing on the periphery of the group.

Pretty clear that wads are NOT helpful with the concave based HGPs. This result is similar to the results of firing many HGPs, and quite a few Hornady PA conicals with wads last year, using both .54 wads and .50 wads. My thinking is that it's very difficult to get the wad perfectly centered on the bore of the rifle, and that one edge always ends up bearing more lightly on the concave rim of the bullet than the other edges. Upon firing, I'm guessing that the lightly bearing edge of the wad probably gets pushed into the concave base before the rest of the wad, leaving the wad in a cockeyed configuration as the bullet travels down the barrel. As a result, the concave base doesn't expand to engage the rifling in a uniform way, the bullet receives an asymetric push from the powder charge/wad, and the bullet ends up being out of round as it exits the barrel. If the some of the wads were cockeyed, I'm guessing that it's also likely that the powder gases which blow past a bullet as it exits the muzzle were giving the bullets some odd pushes as well.

4. 5 shots with 80grs W of T7-2F, no wads. Velocities 1496 to 1520, 1509 Average. Group size 2.5 inches. Excellent velocity consistency. Accuracy mediocre, but probably acceptable for hunting.

At the start of this group 15 shots had been fired from the rifle, with swabbing between shots, but no thorough cleaning. Also, the high temp for the day was 25 F, with a pretty good breeze, and I was very cold. I therefore decided to quit for the day, clean the Renegade thoroughly, and resume the following day.

Day 2, 10 December:

1. 5 Shots, 80 grs W T7-2F, no wads: Before firing the first shot, I forgot to fire a cap to clear the flash hole of cleaners and rust protectant (CLP). There was a perceptible delay between cap firing and powder detonation ( a "Snap-Bang" kind of effect), measured velocity was 1459, and the shot landed about 2 inches to the left of center. No perceptible delay in any following shots, velocities ranged from 1517 to 1530, and the 4 bullets went into a 2 1/8 inch group centered 1 inch above my point of aim. Despite the snap-bang on the first bullet, all five bullets went into a 2.5 inch circle.

2. 5 shots, 85 grs W T7-2F, no wads. Velocities 1527 to 1561, Avg. 1544. Group size 2 3/8 inches, centered 1 inch above point of aim. No leading was observed. This is the load I used for hunting.

Directions for future load developement:

At this point, it seems that I have a bullet and powder combination which loads easily, and produces velocities of 1544 +/- 17 fps with a 385 grain bullet. While 5 shot group sizes of 2 1/2 inches or slightly less are not nearly as tight as I would like, reality is that between my 66 year-old eyes, the limitations of peep sights designed for hunting, and the shooting positions that are possible while hunting elk and mule deer in the mostly-forested mountains of West-Central Montana (sitting with a monopod for support at the very best, and most typically sitting, kneeling, or off-hand) I am hard-pressed to shoot that accurately anyway. Furthermore, in the mostly-forested mountain country typical of our elk and mule deer hunting, shots at ranges longer than 125 yards are more the exception than the rule, so ability to keep all shots in a 6 inch circle at 125 yards should be adequate accuracy. The 385 grain HGPs have a G1 ballistic coefficient of 1.48, and Hornady's ballistic calculator tells me that with a velocity of 1540, their maximum point blank range is about 125 yards.

Nevertheless, I plan to keep seeking better performance from my hunting load - just for fun if nothing else. Here are some of the things I'm thinking about.

1. With my hunting sights (a Skinner peep mounted just forward of the barrel plug, and the Renegade's factory front sight), and my 66 year-old eyes, I suspect that my error of aim at 50 yards is probably around an inch and a half, and is therefore a major factor in the group sizes I'm getting. To do much better, I probably need to mount a telescope on the Renegade. TC used to sell a scope mount that attaches to the factory rear sight screw holes on the Renegade, so if I can find one of these mounts and a Scout scope to go with it, I can probably do load development with a telescope, without having to drill more holes in the Renegade, or having to remove the Skinner peep. Does anybody have experience with the TC mounts? Any other suggestions for mounting a scope on the Renegade?

2. I should probably run more tests with different loads of T7-2F. It's interesting that 85 grs W produced more consistent velocities at about the same accuracy as 80 grs W, so maybe I should also try 90 grs W of T7-2F.

3. I should try the HGPs with a half of a cotton ball for a wad, as several knowledgeable forum members have suggested.

4. I need to test my loads at 100 yards.

5. Ideally, I'd like to find a hunting bullet that weighs between 330 and 350 grs for higher velocity, is no more than .75 inches long for better stability, is made of 40-1 alloy for better penetration, has deeper lube grooves than the HGPs, has a flat meplat for improved shock effect, has a flat base so that it can be used with a wad, is a tight slip fit to my barrel from the base to the first lube groove to promote loading ease and straightness, and is then about .002 oversized so that it engages the rifling and stays on the powder while hunting under mountain conditions, but is still relatively easy to load. Altogether, this will require a custom mold and some excellent casting. I'm looking at designs from Accurate Molds.... Not sure that I want to get into bullet casting myself, but my recollection is that the Bullshop will do custom casting with a customer-supplied mold, so I will probably confirm with The Bullshop and start there if I decide to go this route.

6. I need to practice shooting the Renegade from typical hunting positions until I'm very proficient with it. To make that a little more comfortable and economical, I should develop an accurate practice load which uses a round ball, or maybe a Hornady PA conical. Lots of cottontails and squirrels in the mountains behind my house, and they are in-season year 'round here in MT... hunting squirrels and rabbits with the Renegade would be GREAT practice for hunting deer and elk! Little buggers are really cute, though, so I'd have to hunt and cook them a long ways from the house, and without telling Tina.
 
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WP I don't know what the regs are in MT. Another thing I'm wondering about is why are you so bent on using the Hornady Great Plains Bullet? Are you limited to full bore conicals or can you use a saboted bullet?
I cast what I think is a 440 gr .501". I cast them with pure lead. I haven't shot any yet but IdahoRon has been shooting them for years as a paper patched bullet. If you PM me your address I can send you a few as cast and lubed and a few paper patched to try.
 
MT regulations for the Heritage ML season require full-bore, pure lead bullets, loose powder, sidelock rifles, iron sights. No sabots, skirts, etc. allowed. I've tried TC Maxi Hunters with very poor luck, and the ones I bought are very poor quality castings that are out of round and hard to load. All of the No Excuses bullets are too long to be stable in my 1:48 twist Renegade, and the bullets in the "Sizer Pack" that I bought are inconsistent in weight, with measured diameters do not match the sizes that they are supposed to be. HGPs are about the only other readily available commercial conicals, so I settled on getting them to work for this year.
 
WP I don't know what the regs are in MT. Another thing I'm wondering about is why are you so bent on using the Hornady Great Plains Bullet? Are you limited to full bore conicals or can you use a saboted bullet?
I cast what I think is a 440 gr .501". I cast them with pure lead. I haven't shot any yet but IdahoRon has been shooting them for years as a paper patched bullet. If you PM me your address I can send you a few as cast and lubed and a few paper patched to try.
Thanks for offering me some of your new bullets, bronko! At 440 grains, I suspect that they're too long to stabilize in my Renegade, but maybe not. If you can tell me how long they are, I will run a quick calculation with Miller's Rule for stability, assuming a velocity of 1500 fps, and see whether it's worthwhile to give them a try.
 
Just as Montana's Heritage Muzzy season opened on 9 December, I squeezed in two more shooting sessions. All bullets were Hornady Great Plains, sized to .501 and lubed with SPG-I (8 oz SPG + 1 oz ALOX + 2.6 oz Stihl Ultra HD 2-Cycle oil. All shooting was done over a solid bench at 50 yards. All velocities were measured with a Caldwell Ballistics chronograph. All powder was Triple - 7 which was purchased no earlier than December 2022, and was opened the previous week. Between all shots I swabbed with one patch that was moistened (not sloppy wet) with Hornady Muzzleloader One-Shot, followed by 2 dry patches. All caps were Dynamit Nobel 1075s. Here are the results:

Day 1, 9 December:

1. Five shots with 70 grs T7 - 3F, weighed (W), no wads. 4 shots went into a 2 1/2 inch circle, one was a flier that landed about 2 inches out. Velocities ranged from 1448 fps (2 shots) to 1575 (2 shots).

2. Five shots with 70 grs T7-2F W, no wads. Group size 1 1/2 inches, with the first three shots touching in a neat little clover leaf. Velocities ranged from 1379 to 1432.

Pretty clear that the T7-3F is producing some strange combustion dynamics in loads that are heavier than 60 grs W. At 50 yards accuracy was still sort of OK with the 3F, but with that big a range of velocities, accuracy would be very poor at ranges of 100 yards or greater. At this point, I decided to go with 2F for all future development.

3. 5 shots with 70 grs W of T7-2F, with a .54 dia, 1/8 thick lubricated wool wad between the bullet and powder. The wads were loaded according to the procedure in an Idaho Lewis video that can be seen here: Felt wad over powder. Velocities ranged from 1389 to 1425, with an average of 1402. Despite the slightly improved velocity consistency, group size blew up to 7 (!) inches, with 3 of the 5 shots landing on the periphery of the group.

Pretty clear that wads are NOT helpful with the concave based HGPs. This result is similar to the results of firing many HGPs, and quite a few Hornady PA conicals with wads last year, using both .54 wads and .50 wads. My thinking is that it's very difficult to get the wad perfectly centered on the bore of the rifle, and that one edge always ends up bearing more lightly on the concave rim of the bullet than the other edges. Upon firing, I'm guessing that the lightly bearing edge of the wad probably gets pushed into the concave base before the rest of the wad, leaving the wad in a cockeyed configuration as the bullet travels down the barrel. As a result, the concave base doesn't expand to engage the rifling in a uniform way, the bullet receives an asymetric push from the powder charge/wad, and the bullet ends up being out of round as it exits the barrel. If the some of the wads were cockeyed, I'm guessing that it's also likely that the powder gases which blow past a bullet as it exits the muzzle were giving the bullets some odd pushes as well.

4. 5 shots with 80grs W of T7-2F, no wads. Velocities 1496 to 1520, 1509 Average. Group size 2.5 inches. Excellent velocity consistency. Accuracy mediocre, but probably acceptable for hunting.

At the start of this group 15 shots had been fired from the rifle, with swabbing between shots, but no thorough cleaning. Also, the high temp for the day was 25 F, with a pretty good breeze, and I was very cold. I therefore decided to quit for the day, clean the Renegade thoroughly, and resume the following day.

Day 2, 10 December:

1. 5 Shots, 80 grs W T7-2F, no wads: Before firing the first shot, I forgot to fire a cap to clear the flash hole of cleaners and rust protectant (CLP). There was a perceptible delay between cap firing and powder detonation ( a "Snap-Bang" kind of effect), measured velocity was 1459, and the shot landed about 2 inches to the left of center. No perceptible delay in any following shots, velocities ranged from 1517 to 1530, and the 4 bullets went into a 2 1/8 inch group centered 1 inch above my point of aim. Despite the snap-bang on the first bullet, all five bullets went into a 2.5 inch circle.

2. 5 shots, 85 grs W T7-2F, no wads. Velocities 1527 to 1561, Avg. 1544. Group size 2 3/8 inches, centered 1 inch above point of aim. No leading was observed. This is the load I used for hunting.

Directions for future load developement:

At this point, it seems that I have a bullet and powder combination which loads easily, and produces velocities of 1544 +/- 17 fps with a 385 grain bullet. While 5 shot group sizes of 2 1/2 inches or slightly less are not nearly as tight as I would like, reality is that between my 66 year-old eyes, the limitations of peep sights designed for hunting, and the shooting positions that are possible while hunting elk and mule deer in the mostly-forested mountains of West-Central Montana (sitting with a monopod for support at the very best, and most typically sitting, kneeling, or off-hand) I am hard-pressed to shoot that accurately anyway. Furthermore, in the mostly-forested mountain country typical of our elk and mule deer hunting, shots at ranges longer than 125 yards are more the exception than the rule, so ability to keep all shots in a 6 inch circle at 125 yards should be adequate accuracy. The 385 grain HGPs have a G1 ballistic coefficient of 1.48, and Hornady's ballistic calculator tells me that with a velocity of 1540, their maximum point blank range is about 125 yards.

Nevertheless, I plan to keep seeking better performance from my hunting load - just for fun if nothing else. Here are some of the things I'm thinking about.

1. With my hunting sights (a Skinner peep mounted just forward of the barrel plug, and the Renegade's factory front sight), and my 66 year-old eyes, I suspect that my error of aim at 50 yards is probably around an inch and a half, and is therefore a major factor in the group sizes I'm getting. To do much better, I probably need to mount a telescope on the Renegade. TC used to sell a scope mount that attaches to the factory rear sight screw holes on the Renegade, so if I can find one of these mounts and a Scout scope to go with it, I can probably do load development with a telescope, without having to drill more holes in the Renegade, or having to remove the Skinner peep. Does anybody have experience with the TC mounts? Any other suggestions for mounting a scope on the Renegade?

2. I should probably run more tests with different loads of T7-2F. It's interesting that 85 grs W produced more consistent velocities at about the same accuracy as 80 grs W, so maybe I should also try 90 grs W of T7-2F.

3. I should try the HGPs with a half of a cotton ball for a wad, as several knowledgeable forum members have suggested.

4. I need to test my loads at 100 yards.

5. Ideally, I'd like to find a hunting bullet that weighs between 330 and 350 grs for higher velocity, is no more than .75 inches long for better stability, is made of 40-1 alloy for better penetration, has deeper lube grooves than the HGPs, has a flat meplat for improved shock effect, has a flat base so that it can be used with a wad, is a tight slip fit to my barrel from the base to the first lube groove to promote loading ease and straightness, and is then about .002 oversized so that it engages the rifling and stays on the powder while hunting under mountain conditions, but is still relatively easy to load. Altogether, this will require a custom mold and some excellent casting. I'm looking at designs from Accurate Molds.... Not sure that I want to get into bullet casting myself, but my recollection is that the Bullshop will do custom casting with a customer-supplied mold, so I will probably confirm with The Bullshop and start there if I decide to go this route.

6. I need to practice shooting the Renegade from typical hunting positions until I'm very proficient with it. To make that a little more comfortable and economical, I should develop an accurate practice load which uses a round ball, or maybe a Hornady PA conical. Lots of cottontails and squirrels in the mountains behind my house, and they are in-season year 'round here in MT... hunting squirrels and rabbits with the Renegade would be GREAT practice for hunting deer and elk! Little buggers are really cute, though, so I'd have to hunt and cook them a long ways from the house, and without telling Tina.
That Renegade does extrem3ely well with (Lewis designed) eye bullet by accurate molds , you already have his lube and the wad trick . And casting is just another part of the sport and gives you some control over
hardness (BHN) and you always have the ability to make more , no more out of stock notices ! Ed
 
length is .900". At 1500 fps you will be on the edge of stability based on the Bison Gyroscopic Stability Calculator. boosting the velocity up to 1600 or better yet, 1700 will increase stability.
They're worth a shot and if they work for you then you can cast your own and have better QC inspecting your own product.
Another thought - did you try shooting those GPBs right out of the box? They may be hard to start but that may eliminate a lot of your leading issue and give you better accuracy.
 
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You are on the right track. Reading all of your posts this and previous I was going to ask why you were married to the GPB. There are lots of other options out there. Looks like Bronko has you on the right track!!
 
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length is .900". At 1500 fps you will be on the edge of stability based on the Bison Gyroscopic Stability Calculator. boosting the velocity up to 1600 or better yet, 1700 will increase stability.
They're worth a shot and if they work for you then you can cast your own and have better QC inspecting your own product.
Another thought - did you try shooting those GPBs right out of the box? They may be hard to start but that may eliminate a lot of your leading issue and give you better accuracy.

I did try the HGPs out of the box. For me, they are more accurate sized to .501, in addition to being far easier to load. Up to 1550, which is the fastest MV I've tested, using IdahoLewis' SPG blend has resolved all of the leading issues I was having with the .501 bullets, even though the HGPs are pure lead, and I wasn't using a wad.

I'm probably not gonna have much opportunity to do more shooting until spring, but I've pretty much decided to get into casting my own bullets.

This evening I played around a bit with the Bison gyro stability calculator, and found that under my "worst case" hunting conditions (temp 0 F, altitude 3000 ft), your 440 grain .900 long bullets should be stable if I can push them at over 1550 fps or so. The thin air at altitudes greater than 3000 feet (most of my shooting will be at 5000 feet in my yard, and most of my hunting will actually be done between 5000 and 6000 feet) really helps with stability. Hopefully I can push 440 gr bullets to 1550 or greater without thumping my rifle or shoulder too hard. I'd therefore like to give them a try, and will PM my address to you.

At the other end of the weight spectrum, I'm thinking about ordering an Accurate mold (50-350E or 50-350V, both slightly modified as discussed below) for a bullet which is similar to Lewis' 50-415I in design, but a bit shorter for better stability, and a bit lighter for more velocity. Lewis cast his target bullets to a diameter which starts with barely any thumb pressure, and I'd like the lowest band on my bullets to start that way too, so that the bullet is well-aligned with the bore prior to application of significant starting pressure. In my Renegade, that probably means that the lowest band will be .498 or less, but I need to do some experimenting with my adjustable sizer to be sure before I order the mold. Because my interest is hunting, I'd like the second and third bands to require a bit more pressure to be sure that the bullet stays on the powder in mountain hunting conditions. My HGPs sized to .501 are just right - it takes very firm thumb pressure to start them past the upper-most bands (the bottom bands start at about .494 and taper up) - so I will probably order the mold with the second and third bands at .503 - just to be sure that the bullets come out with these bands at least .501: I can always size down a bit to get the desired fit, but sizing up takes a lot more doing. :)

Thanks again.
 
This evening I ordered a new Skinner "Patridge" front sight for the Renegade. The factory Renegade bead is .105 diameter, which covers a whopping 11.8 inches at 100 yards when it's positioned 32 inches from my eye.... not exactly a great sight for precision shooting, even when you aim with the top of the bead. The Skinner Patridge post is .065 wide, so it covers 7.3 inches at 100 yards. Still not great, but a big improvement. I also ordered a set of Birchwood Casey sight painting pens. They come in neon green, fluourescent red, and white. I'm thinking that with an orange target spot on a black background, the neon green should give great contrast. Neon green also shows up well against everything in the late fall woods, and it's the first color you can see at dawn, and the last color you can see at dusk: Back in the day, when I was hunting with a compound bow and sights, neon green was the color I used on my 20 yard pin. With my 66 year-old eyes, I need every advantage I can get - in the woods and on the range.
 
Those patridge sights are not the best for fine aiming. I replace the one on my .36 Seneca and my groups shrunk to half their size and that's what's needed for popping off squirrels!
 
This evening I ordered a new Skinner "Patridge" front sight for the Renegade. The factory Renegade bead is .105 diameter, which covers a whopping 11.8 inches at 100 yards when it's positioned 32 inches from my eye.... not exactly a great sight for precision shooting, even when you aim with the top of the bead. The Skinner Patridge post is .065 wide, so it covers 7.3 inches at 100 yards. Still not great, but a big improvement. I also ordered a set of Birchwood Casey sight painting pens. They come in neon green, fluourescent red, and white. I'm thinking that with an orange target spot on a black background, the neon green should give great contrast. Neon green also shows up well against everything in the late fall woods, and it's the first color you can see at dawn, and the last color you can see at dusk: Back in the day, when I was hunting with a compound bow and sights, neon green was the color I used on my 20 yard pin. With my 66 year-old eyes, I need every advantage I can get - in the woods and on the range.
At 74 all my side locks ( 2 )wear 4x Leupolds /1 has a 2x7 Burress ,easier to see check horn or ears and reaches out there with 50-54 cals /four with ears this year so far opens again 12/26 till Jan 1st fillin nuisance tags at our club !/Ed
 
At 74 all my side locks ( 2 )wear 4x Leupolds /1 has a 2x7 Burress ,easier to see check horn or ears and reaches out there with 50-54 cals /four with ears this year so far opens again 12/26 till Jan 1st fillin nuisance tags at our club !/Ed
Scopes aren’t legal during MT Heritage ML season. I’m sorely tempted to mount a Scout Scope to the factory rear sight holes in my Renegade for use in load development though…. I think TC used to make a rear sight hole scope base for that purpose.
 
Scopes aren’t legal during MT Heritage ML season. I’m sorely tempted to mount a Scout Scope to the factory rear sight holes in my Renegade for use in load development though…. I think TC used to make a rear sight hole scope base for that purpose.
one of my 54 cal has that exact base ,only one the gun smith had in his bag of tricks .Told him I have a standing order if he finds another !/Ed
 
Those patridge sights are not the best for fine aiming. I replace the one on my .36 Seneca and my groups shrunk to half their size and that's what's needed for popping off squirrels!
I suspect that the Patridge sights are great for establishing elevation with fine accuracy, but not so good for fine horizontal aiming - even .065 is still pretty wide.

Also, my eye wants to center the bullseye in the peep, which means that the horizontal line in the Patridge sight has to be below center if I'm using a 6 O'Clock hold on the bullseye for max accuracy. The advantage of a bead is that my eye wants to center both the bead and bullseye (or point of aim on an animal) in the peep.... but when it does that, either a bead or a Patridge blade covers up way too much of the target, so aiming precision is poor.

As I was thinking about this yesterday, I had a crazy idea: The Skinner front sights are made out of mild, easily filed steel, so it should be easy to file both top edges of the sight blade at a 45 degree angle, leaving the top of the post shaped like a simple gabled roof. When the shooter looks at the front sight through the peep, then, he will see a pointed post, and his eye will center both the point of aim and the point of the post in the peep - without covering up too much of the target for precision aiming. So that seems to offer the best of all worlds: Precision aiming, the eye's natural tendency to center front sight and target in the peep, and the easy front sight acquisition of a relatively thick Patridge sight blade.

Any thoughts?
 
Before you go filing take a piece of masking tape and cover the front sight. Cut a little slit in the tape in the center of the sight and put a white line on it either with some white paint or white fingernail polish.
Degrease sight before hand.
 
Before you go filing take a piece of masking tape and cover the front sight. Cut a little slit in the tape in the center of the sight and put a white line on it either with some white paint or white fingernail polish.
Degrease sight before hand.

Great idea! I have some Birchwood Casey sight painting pens coming - white, neon green, and fluorescent red.
 
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