Wet Patch Question

[NewlyMinted]

I recently realized that my blow-back and misfires are being caused by excess moisture in the breech area left by my wet patch between shots.

I feel like a fool, but I'm glad I figured it out - mostly by examining the powder I pushed out and realizing it was caked.

I bought the CVA range kit and it included the cleaning wet patches that I used. I knew consistency was key to whatever I decided to do, so my routine was shoot, wet patch, and 3-4 dry patches depending on the fouling, check the flash-hole for round light and reload.

As my CVA wet patch jar was getting low on patches the moisture level must have ramped up in each patch and I didn't notice. The symptoms were blow-back on almost all primers and random misfires, and often the flashhole wasn't a clear circle.

I fixed it by squeezing out the patch so it was just damp and all was right in the world.

I'm asking for a little advice.

I keep throwing dry patches into the CVA jar to soak up the excess liquid but I think I'm a couple of range days and cleanup sessions away from needing a replacement liquid. I like having a jar handy with wet patches so just need to replenish the fluid, and want to try something new.

I have been using Pyrodex RS and will likely keep doing so. I've read that battisol/ murphy's and water is a great parts soaker and cleaning patch solution, but I've also read that alcohol is a good wet patch between shots since it evaporates.

If I have my jar of wet patches in a new solution in the next week or so, what would be a good option? Is the alcohol IPA alcohol or something else?

Any help would be totally appreciated.

I love my CVA Accura LR, and have really enjoyed this forum!

 

[Idaholewis]

I use blue windex with ammonia (very tiny amount of ammonia in blue windex) I go 50/50 or there abouts with 91% isopropyl Alcohol and the Blue windex. Just dampen a patch and Swab, then 2-3 Dry patches, i like to pop 1 cap off straight through the Bore Pointed at the Ground (this is with a Sidelock Muzzleloader) this breaks any flaky crud loose in the Fire Channel and Patented breech. And then reload :yeah:

 

[dbowling]

get a little spray bottle like used for eye glass cleaner, use Lewis solution and lightly spritz your patch to just barely make it damp.

I use blue windex with ammonia (very tiny amount of ammonia in blue windex) I go 50/50 or there abouts with 91% isopropyl Alcohol and the Blue windex. Just dampen a patch and Swab, then 2-3 Dry patches, i like to pop 1 cap off straight through the Bore Pointed at the Ground (this is with a Sidelock Muzzleloader) this breaks any flaky crud loose in the Fire Channel and Patented breech. And then reload :yeah:

 

[sabotloader]

I am a firm believer in the abilities of regular 'blue Windex' with ammonia. For myself it is a much more positive metal stripper than 'vinegar Windex'. I have tried straight alcohol and mixed alcohol and find no real advantage using it either way.

I make two types of Windex patches. For cleaning at the house I use a saturated 'wet' Windex patch and for the range I make a bunch of damp Windex patches.

When you get the hang of making the range patch there is no real reason to need to dry patch or fire a drying cap or primer. Just load and shoot...

 

[MSalyards]

I make the "range patch's" just like sabot loader , very lightly damp. Straight windex. then 1 dry patch swabbed both sides. Works for me, Mike.

 

[sabotloader]

I make the "range patch's" just like sabot loader , very lightly damp. Straight windex. then 1 dry patch swabbed both sides. Works for me, Mike.

Correct that should work very well... One thing I should have mentioned when you are patching make sure the hammer is off the nipple so the breech and nipple can breath. Push the last patch down quickly and listen for the air to be expelled from the nipple - you can easily tell if it is dry air or air passing through moister.

 

[Renegadehunter]

I also basically do the same as sabotloader, except I use Hoppes Black powder solvent or Birchwood/Casey #77 cleaner to damp the patches with. I got a plastic snuff can from a guy at work and use it to hold them. Not completely air tight, but takes a long time for them to dry out. I run a barely damp patch and don't even use a dry patch before loading when at the range and shooting again right away.

 

[Idaholewis]

One thing I should have mentioned when you are patching make sure the hammer is off the nipple so the breech and nipple can breath. Push the last patch down quickly and listen for the air to be expelled from the nipple - you can easily tell if it is dry air or air passing through moister.

Good info Mike! A lot of us guy’s that do this stuff on a Regular basis take for Granted that everyone else knows these things as well, it’s little things like this that are actually BIG when helping others

 

[GM54-120]

Adding 91% or higher isopropyl has two benefits. It dries faster and lowers the freezing temperature of the Windex. If you cant find 91% go to places like Auto Zone. They sell ISO-HEET. Its 99% isopropyl. (rubbing alcohol) You can get bottles for under $3 at some places like Lowes and Home Cheapo.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gold-Eagle- ... /207078277
Isopropyl alcohol CAS:67-63-0 99.9998%

 

[Idaholewis]

GM54, AWESOME Idea on the Heet!!! I swear by the 91% Isopropyl Alcohol in the Blue Windex, 50/50 or Stouter on the Alcohol Side, As my Bottle gets lower n lower i keep filling it back up with the Alcohol, at this point i have very little Windex, Mostly 91% Alcohol. I have been using this from my Very beginning in this stuff, This 91% isopropyl Alcohol Dries Fairly Quick, Running a Moist Patch down a bore i plan to Dump Dry powder down, The Drying property of Alcohol just makes good sense to me :yeah:

 

[GM54-120]

Windex has less than 5% isopropyl and less than 1% glycol so it certainly can freeze. It more than likely will when hunting in temps of 20F or less. A barrel will get cold pretty fast even if your patches are under your coat and warm.

What happens when a thin layer of water hits cold metal?.... Flash freezing. In reality you probably only need a 10-20% % more iso to keep it from freezing. 40 Proof booze (20%) takes forever to freeze in a freezer. It would be easy enough to test on any piece of metal left outside in the cold. The additional iso simply helps it evaporate quicker....Pretty cheap insurance if you ask me.

 

[edmehlig]

Wonder if its better to use Heet by itself?