What is the maximum distance for elk?

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I am new to muzzleloading. I have a Thompson Omega (2006). I have a elk/mule deer hunt coming up in CO this fall. I would like to try my muzzleloader, but my outfitter thinks that they don't have the range or power to kill an elk (unless it's close). He thinks that 250 yards would be too far to shoot. What distance can the you effectively expect to kill an animal the size of an elk with the Omega? Also, any suggestions on loads, scopes etc. would be appreciated.
Thanks!
:?:
 
On elk-sized game I would personally limit myself to 175 yds. All depends what you're comfortable with and at what distance you can make a clean kill.
 
Remember Colorado only allows Black Powder, NO Sabots, and OPEN SIGHTS ONLY (NO SCOPES) SO with that being said 100-125 MAX
 
I was told that during RIFLE season, (the time we are going) you can use any legal weapo, including scoped muzzleloaders. If I've got the wrong info, I will have to look into that further.

Thanks!
Jeff
 
Chainsawlaskowski said:
I was told that during RIFLE season, (the time we are going) you can use any legal weapo, including scoped muzzleloaders. If I've got the wrong info, I will have to look into that further.

Thanks!
Jeff

That makes sense to me.
 
As far as a Scope, i would buy a vari xIII 3.5x10x40. A VXII would be a better choice if you have the cash.

As far as how far you can shoot an ELk???? You will here alot of different answers. Mine is pretty simple, if it's over 200yds i'm taking a CF rifle. Ihave shot and killed father then 200yds with a Muzzleloader, but if i know its going to be farther i will choose a different weapon.

There are people who dont have a choice but to use a Muzzleloader or a shotgun. Then they have to spend time working up loads at long range and also practice shooting at long range.

I would start with 110grns of 777 and a 275grn parker ballistic extreme. A 250grn bonded shockwave would be a good choice as well. Dont be a fraid to try MMP sabots and harvester to find the most accurate one. I hope this helps you out.
 
Jeff, you are correct on Colorado regulations. During regular rifle season you are allowed to use sabots, pellets, and a scope. The others on this forum will be much better at telling you the limitations of a muzzleloader. I will tell you this, in the last three years, I have been lucky enough to take three cows and one bull in Colorado, and th longest shot was 225 yards, the others were well under that. If you can work up a load where you are getting good energy and accuracy out past 200 yards, I think you will be fine, but here are two things to consider:
1. The bullet you choose should be tough enough to handle a close range shot if it happens. Most sabotted bullets are fairly thin skinned, given the relatively mild ballistics created by a muzzleloader. But with the size of an elk, and the amount of powder you will be using to allow for a long range shot, a thin skinned bullet that impacts the front shoulder at close range will most likely come apart and not penetrate.

2. How bad will you kick yourself for using a muzzleloader, if you see a 6x6 bull at 300yards? :(

Good luck.
 
I will hunt in Colorado this year for Elk and deer for muzzleloader season. If I was hunting during rifle season, it would be with the 30.06 Sometimes those elk are on the next ridge or further. During muzzleloader season, you usually have the rut going on and they respond to calling. That makes a big difference on how close they will come in towards you. During rifle season, the rut is usually over, the bulls aren't nearly as responsive and they are worn out by the rut. They have also been hunted for atleast a month. Your chances of getting under 200 yrds are less. If I was spending the money on a guide in rifle season, I'd want something I could shoot atleast 400 yards. What area are you hunting?
 
Chainsawlaskowski

Elk are a pretty hearty animal with a very thick skin - bullet placement will be the key.

I shot a 450 lb (dressed) cow @ 176 yard this past season with a Remington 700ML - 50 cal. I was shooting a .458/300 grain Nosler PP Partition Bullet - 110 grains of T7-2f. It was pretty much a broadside shot at a standing animal, the bullet entered just behind the left front shoulder passed through the lungs came out on the right side and enter the leg - bullet stopped in the big bone of the upper leg. Both lungs were jello and a part of the heart was taken off. The animal turned a full 180 degrees and dropped... I did not get to see this to much smoke, but when I got the animal it was where I shot it but going the opposit direction.

I would have to have a really good shot to go beyond 175 yards - but if the right shot presented itself and it was under 200 I would make the shot.
 
I agree with Cajun. I'm from Colorado (although temporarily living in FL :( for a few years before returning to CO :) ). I'm going out in October for a horse pack in trip to the high country during the 2nd regular rifle season with one of my sons (he organized it :) ). Since the bull tag is going to cost me $526 (used to cost me $45 or something like that), plus the $5 habitat stamp, I am going to use my centerfire .338 Mag.

As to how far can you kill an elk with a muzzleloader, well, there are way too many variables to really give a good answer; however, if you go to the Barnes Bullets web site, you will find a picture of Randy Brooks with an elk he killed at over 300 yards with the 245 gr TMZ bullet.

Good hunting!
Bill
 

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