Which oil to use on my muzzleloader

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Overdue Bill

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Another question for all of you super helpful people---What's the best oil (or maybe other solution ?) to use inside the barrel and all metal parts of my muzzleloader when it is to be stored for a period of time?
 
I use Barricade (sometimes BreakFree CLP) exclusively inside the bore. Other than using a quality wax from time to time I keep a cloth dampened with Type "F" transmission fluid and do all external wiping, wood and metal, with it. Excellent rust protection for external surfaces. For true long term storage something like Rig or another good gun grease would be my choice.
 
#2 on the type f trans. fluid. Type f has parafin in it.


Yes it does and that causes it to behave much like a polishing wax. I use Johnson's Paste Wax from time to time but actually prefer the finish with the Type F. It's NOT for use in the bore same as paste waxes.
 
For long or medium length storage I use Pledge spray furniture wax on the external surfaces. Easy, just spray and wipe down with a soft cloth. Be sure to stick a cotton ball over your scope lenses however. Out
 
I use Froglube to protect my guns. If hunting I use the froglube extreme because the CLP lube effectiveness diminishes due to freezing rust protection remains.
 
Extremely interesting test. I think the bottom line is that if what you use is working, then your choice is a good one. I'm also sure how you use your rust protectant and how you treat your guns makes a difference as well.
 
Been using Ballistol for many years now. Works great. Probably something better if you plan on storing it in a chest of sea water. I like it is non toxic as well.
 
Extremely interesting test. I think the bottom line is that if what you use is working, then your choice is a good one. I'm also sure how you use your rust protectant and how you treat your guns makes a difference as well.
That is a extreme test to see efficacy, obviously if within normal usage and upkeep care most work sufficiently. Long term out of mind storage (years) cosmoline like the military archives weapons would be a choice.
 
The Comprehensive Corrosion Test was thoroughly and thoughtfully done. I have seen several of these type corrosion tests on the net. Rarely do the testers replicate their experiments as this person has done. That makes the experimental results much more robust.
Different testers around the net report results that differ from each other. However, there are several brands that consistently come out on top and a few that always are near the bottom. EezOx, Barricade and Frog Lube generally finish near the top, Rem Oil and regular WD-40 dwell near the bottom. WD-40 did well in this test, but it is the "special," not the normal WD-40.
Many tests in structural civil engineering (concrete as an example) use extreme conditions to test the limits of the strength of the material, often testing the material to failure. Testing under extreme conditions is due to time and financial resource limitations.

Ron
 
Another question for all of you super helpful people---What's the best oil (or maybe other solution ?) to use inside the barrel and all metal parts of my muzzleloader when it is to be stored for a period of time?
#2 on Barricade.
 
All my black powder guns get Fluid Film in the bore. I spray a bit in with the straw and then wipe thoroughly with a patch and rod, not forgetting the breech area. The exterior gets Minwax paste wax on the wood and something like G96 Or a good gun oil product. Depends on what I have in my hand. The big secret is wiping all the guns inside and out once a month. I never have rust.
 
I currently use multi-purpose mineral oil laxative to wipe down the exterior (metal and wood) and a light coat in the bore of all my guns; front stuffers or cartridge.

I use the same stuff on my knife blades and joints, too.
It is "food safe".

I used to use 3 in 1 on the metal and in the bore decades ago, and on my knives. However, I heard that 3 in 1, fresh or used motor oil of any weight, and transmission fluid (both Dextron and Type F) are not exactly "food safe" so should not be used on knives.
(I must say though: "Using those things on all my knives for around 60 years ain't harmed me none.")
 
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