Shooting Triple 7

[brownisdown]

But,when he put the wad over the bh powder did he did compress the powder and that is what made it work?Because I keep seeing where in order to make the bh powder work is to compress it with the bullet,or in this case the wad.???

 

[Farmingdales Finest]

Ha, I have had this problem too!! but for me in my .50 Omega the patch goes past the ring and then the Jag, patch and rod have got stuck to the point that I have had to remove the BP and push the rod through. It was so bad for a while that I started using a .45 Jag. It may have been the thickness of my patch that was the problem. Now I go with a bronze brush 1st, then 1-2 wet patches and a dry patch after which seems to work.

You described my first day ever of muzzleloader hunting on Monday this week.!

This is the link about my first two hunts with a Muzzy and the drama that ensued due to the stuck ramrod.

https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/...-a-muzzy-2-bucks-in-2-days.59045/#post-568165

 

[gregdaws]

You described my first day ever of muzzleloader hunting on Monday this week.!

This is the link about my first two hunts with a Muzzy and the drama that ensued due to the stuck ramrod.

https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/...-a-muzzy-2-bucks-in-2-days.59045/#post-568165

Hi there

It`s a learning curve for sure, but worthwhile once you get there. There's a ton of great people on this forum with some real quality advice. Folks here are passionate about their muzzleloaders !! I spend a lot of time at the range and I can`t tell you the number of mistakes or incidents that occurred when I started out. Thankfully nothing hazardous to anything except my pride. The one bit of advice that I can give you is make sure that you keep a small tool box handy to deal with issues.

Actually there is another bit, if you use bronze brushes make sure you buy brushes for muzzleloaders. They are the ones where the wire passes through the brass base and isn`t simply crimped in place. Crimped brushes come to pieces on the back stroke which is not great especially if you are shooting percussion or a flinter. Oh and always have patches and more patches!!

I really hope your experiences haven`t dampened your enthusiasm. Have a great day !!

 

[Farmingdales Finest]

Hi there

It`s a learning curve for sure, but worthwhile once you get there. There's a ton of great people on this forum with some real quality advice. Folks here are passionate about their muzzleloaders !! I spend a lot of time at the range and I can`t tell you the number of mistakes or incidents that occurred when I started out. Thankfully nothing hazardous to anything except my pride. The one bit of advice that I can give you is make sure that you keep a small tool box handy to deal with issues.

Actually there is another bit, if you use bronze brushes make sure you buy brushes for muzzleloaders. They are the ones where the wire passes through the brass base and isn`t simply crimped in place. Crimped brushes come to pieces on the back stroke which is not great especially if you are shooting percussion or a flinter. Oh and always have patches and more patches!!

I really hope your experiences haven`t dampened your enthusiasm. Have a great day !!

No dampened enthusiasm except at the moment of not being able to pull it out. I was fortunate another hunter put it down and once I calmed down I realized I could unscrew the ram rod and breech plug and push the jag out from the breech.

 

[bgiles]

Im already doing what MrTom suggests hunting with the small amount of BH I still have and plinking and range time I use my T7 fffg. This works out well for me because Im not buying anymore BH until price becomes resonable again. Ive found I can go several shots with the T7 fffg without swabbing if need be.

I would be very surprised if the BH 209 price ever goes down. Everything seems to be owned by Hodgdon these days and I have no idea how the manufacturing costs compare between the black powder substitutes. I just hope for better availability. Ar $80 a can, it is now costing me $1.28 per shot. I've never shot Triple Seven in my current rifle and would prefer not to. Last can I bought was $80, but that was almost a year ago.

 

[WP79Vet]

I'm on a learning curve with this powder. Both Triple 7 FFg and FFFg. I'm still working on squeezing out the best accuracy with different rifles which is normal when using a new powder. But my learning is coming in with dealing with the infamous crud ring. Shooting this powder in my inline rifles and I've had patches get stuck just at or below the ring and needed to remove the BP a few times or dig my patch worm out of my shooting box.
I've since learned that, while I always used short strokes swabbing between shots, now when I reach the crud ring I have to shorten these strokes even more until the patch goes easily through it. Otherwise the ring grabs the patch and pulls it off the jag.
Although it can be a hassle, now that I'm getting the hang of swabbing the bore using T7, it's not so bad. I'm also liking the groups I'm getting vs BH209 and even my favorite Black MZ.
So if you decide to use T7, swab gently my friends!!!

I've found that when swabbing between shots, a few short strokes with a patch that's been moistened with Hornady One Shot ML cleaner completely removes the crud ring. I follow that with a dry patch.

 

[rangerod]

I used to get the infamous “crud ring” with 100 grains of T7 pellets, recently I picked up some loose T7 powder, and experimenting with charge weights I found 85gr with a Shockwave bullet, in a crush rib sabot was my sweet spot with the T/C Triumph. Also as a side benefit, much less of a crud ring? I can only quess why, but it works for me in both the T/C and a cheap CVA Wolf which I picked up as a backup

Thanks for your post. I have two Triumphs and have always found them rather finicky when it comes to load development. I gotta say I love the way the gun handles and works well for stalking. I will definitely give your load a try. What grn were the shockwaves?

 

[sabotloader]

I've found that when swabbing between shots, a few short strokes with a patch that's been moistened with Hornady One Shot ML cleaner completely removes the crud ring. I follow that with a dry patch.

As another thought.... when I am shooting T7, especially with a 209 primer, the infamous "Crud Ring" certainly can be a problem. I have used a moist (NOT wet) blue Windex patch to clear the ring. When you reach the "Crud Ring" near the bottom of the bore use very short strokes up and down at the ring. Blue Windex has Ammonia mixed in and evaporates quickly - so a dry patch is not really needed. In addition as long as the dirty patch remains moist i use the same patch more than once.

 

[Charger1]

I've found that when swabbing between shots, a few short strokes with a patch that's been moistened with Hornady One Shot ML cleaner completely removes the crud ring. I follow that with a dry patch.

T7 ffg is my go to. I have a

I've found that when swabbing between shots, a few short strokes with a patch that's been moistened with Hornady One Shot ML cleaner completely removes the crud ring. I follow that with a dry patch.

T7 ffg is my go to powder. And yes, for the best consistency, I use one wet patch then flip it and one dry patch and flip it.

 

[Clairebear]

I use the tiny isopropyl alcohols swabs that they use on your skin before giving a needle

 

[Charger1]

I have a MR-X. 45 and the cleaning jag was very hard to go down the barrel let alone using T7. I found that putting the jag on a drill and filling some brass off did the trick. Now when swabbing the barrel and getting close to the crud ring, I just slow down and use small strokes.