knight original disc 45 cal

I understand knight has has 2 twist in this rifle 1 was a 1:20 and one was a 1:30 does anyone know how you tell the difference ??
And what exactly does the numbers in the barrel twist mean ??
And any info where to start on pwdr and bullet weight ??

Thanks !!

Rate of twist is the length a bullet has to travel to rotate one revolution. Search for a video on youtube, it's easier than explaining it.

The faster the rate of twist 1 in 20" the heavier or longer bullet the rifle can stabilize.

Take your ramrod & measure10 inches up from the jag end & mark it. Put a patch on & push the rod down paying close attention to the mark as you do. If it rotates 1/2 turn by the time you hit your mark then it's 1-20, if not it's 1-28 or 1-30.

The 1-20 used to be harder to find accurate loads for but with the latest polymers used in sabots now, the 1-20 will shoot most anything well as does the 1-30

h2OFOWLER said:

I understand knight has has 2 twist in this rifle 1 was a 1:20 and one was a 1:30 does anyone know how you tell the difference ??
And what exactly does the numbers in the barrel twist mean ??
And any info where to start on pwdr and bullet weight ??

Thanks !!

Click to expand...

Here is the serial number break..

Serial number change for the .45 twist rate was anything prior to #2291 on mild steel and #5043 on stainless were 1:20 twist. Hope this helps.

Yes, that serial number range is the easiest way to check. If desired you can confirm it with a patched rod.

there`s a patent number 6,189,253 and then another # on the same side of the barrel S004508

h2OFOWLER said:

there`s a patent number 6,189,253 and then another # on the same side of the barrel S004508

Click to expand...

then another # on the same side of the barrel S004508

Click to expand...

That is the Serial number. Is it stainless? If so you have a 20twist. You can easily confirm with a tight patch and a cleaning rod. Start the patch on the rod into the bore at the muzzle. Place a piece of tape at the muzzle on the rod and another out about 30" and put a mark on the one at 30", then push the rod till the mark has made one full turn. Place another piece of tape at the muzzle again and remove the rod. Measure between the pieces of tape that were at the muzzle when you started and at full turn. That will measurement will tell you if it is 20", 24" 28" 32" etc.

h2OFOWLER said:

there`s a patent number 6,189,253 and then another # on the same side of the barrel S004508

Click to expand...

With that serial number your rifle is a 1-20, provided that it is a DISC Original.

Is the barrel fluted?

yes the barrel is fluted and it`s on a blk composite thumbhole stock

h2OFOWLER said:

yes the barrel is fluted and it`s on a blk composite thumbhole stock

Click to expand...

You have what Knight called a 'Super DISC'

what the difference between that an the originail disc

h2OFOWLER said:

what the difference between that an the originail disc

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It was just a model name variation. I believe the fluting on the barrel prompted the name change to 'Super DISC' Also remember the original DISC was never called the 'Original DISC' by Knight it was just the 'DISC' - we have attached the name 'Original' to the rifle to separate it from the later DISC Extreme and DISC Elite - then all of the other DISC models that knight has brought to the public.

any one out there have a extra breech plug tool for this disc .45 and the c tool looks like it`s been misplaced.

h2OFOWLER said:

any one out there have a extra breech plug tool for this disc .45 and the c tool looks like it`s been misplaced.

Click to expand...

You can use a plain 7/16" deep socket, long extension and a ratchet to remove the breech plug...

Like you see in this picture...



And for a 'C' tool a regular 7/16" opened wrench will work...

nobody really gave me any starting points with bullets and pwdr I know every rifle is different but there`s got to b a few standard bullets and powder loads that shoot well ?

h2OFOWLER said:

nobody really gave me any starting points with bullets and pwdr I know every rifle is different but there`s got to b a few standard bullets and powder loads that shoot well ?

Click to expand...

My suggestion... get a box of Hornady 40x200 grain XTP's or a box of Speer 40x180 Dots, a couple of packages of MMP 40x45 Light tan sabots or Harvester 40x45 light blue sabots. I shoot 110 grains of T7-3f ignited with a #11 mag cap.

These two bullets are very inexpensive and will allow you to some inexpensive shooting in. The Speer's may e difficult to find.

Another very good bullet is the Sierra 40x200 but they are even harder to find.

These are recovered sabots...



This is a picture of the 40x200 XTP on the left



This is shooting the Sierra 40x200 from a blued Super DISC

sabotloader said:

h2OFOWLER said:

nobody really gave me any starting points with bullets and pwdr I know every rifle is different but there`s got to b a few standard bullets and powder loads that shoot well ?

Click to expand...

My suggestion... get a box of Hornady 40x200 grain XTP's or a box of Speer 40x180 Dots, a couple of packages of MMP 40x45 Light tan sabots or Harvester 40x45 light blue sabots. I shoot 110 grains of T7-3f ignited with a #11 mag cap.

These two bullets are very inexpensive and will allow you to some inexpensive shooting in. The Speer's may e difficult to find.

Another very good bullet is the Sierra 40x200 but they are even harder to find.

These are recovered sabots...



This is a picture of the 40x200 XTP on the left



This is shooting the Sierra 40x200 from a blued Super DISC

Click to expand...

So I don`t want to sound stupid but don`t understand the bullets and diameters and sabots, if ur shooting a .45 caliber what bullet diameter or sizes can u use without risking a bad accident, I`ve looked for some of the bullets u`ve named and from what I can tell the hornady xtp is a handgun bullet correct ?? and is the speer gold dot the same ??
So what I`m getting is you can shoot a bullet that`s sabotless but Its got to b the same diameter as the barrel, so if I want to shoot the sst it has to be a .40 and then the sabot takes up the rest of the room right ??
So I`m wondering could u shoot a diferent size bullet inside the sabot say a .44 caliber or would there not be enough room in the sabot to do this.
Is there somewhere where this is explained to me an article I could read or a chart ??
I`m used to buying ammo that`s specific for the caliber and gun and going and shooting it.
And I `ve had some guys tell me how u can download a .50 caliber and shoot smaller bullets, this is very confusing how does a smaller bullet engage a larger diameter barrels rifling ??

Sabots
45x40=45cal sabot and a 40cal/10mm bullet IN the sabot. Many of the bullets for these sabots are just common 10mm bullets for reloading 40S&W ect. The 200gr SST and Barnes 195 Expander are made specifically for muzzleloading. They will all drop a deer if used correctly. I would avoid most 10mm bullets under 180gr though especially in a 1-20 twist.

Both MMP and Harvester offer these type of sabots. The MMPs are normally tan in color. The Harvesters are normally light blue and come in smooth or "ribbed" aka Crushrib. Most people prefer the smooth light blues in the 45s.

Sabotless is a whole other ball game and requires sizing the bullet to YOUR bore. Sometimes they need to be larger and other times they need to be smaller. Not all bores are the same ID and not all .451 bullets are actually .451. Even .001 too much will be a bear to load. A company called Swinglock makes an adjustable sizing die just for this purpose but its not cheap.

Sizing UP requires what we call "knurling" its basically rolling the bullet between two files. Here is a video by Rick Bibby (RIP)of the basic process in a .408. Its the same procedure for a 45.
[youtube]NncCcscSQa8 [/youtube]


I would forget sabotless for now until you are well versed in the common loading procedures. One stuck bullet can ruin a day at the range and there is little margin for error on sizing. If you want to try something easy and sabotless, try some pure lead conicals from Bullshop or NoExcuses. A 460gr soft lead conical is devastating on game and recoil is really not that bad with the milder powder charges used.

Verify the bore is clear, pour in the powder charge (from the powder measure not the bottle), load a wad over the powder and then load the conical firmly on top or the powder/wad. Mark your ramrod when you are sure the conical is correctly seated on the powder and wad. This is your witness mark and helps in avoiding an accidental; double load.

Point the rifle in a safe direction, prime and you are ready to shoot. It pretty simple really and much easier to load than sabots.