Who is using Hodgdon Triple 7?

[snapbang]

I use T7 in my plunger guns
I use Holy Swiss in all my side locks
I use B209 in my Knight Elite (209 conversion) so I can travel and shoot without having to worry about corrosion.

I enjoy each in the application indicated and find good accuracy in all applications.

 

[deermanok]

I also use black powder in my sidehammer guns and my flinter.
Today I took my new CVA Wolf out for a sight in. I did burn black powder in it today. Swiss 3f. It's not that much slower than Triple 7 2f, velocity wise.
I do like the smoke and smell, it's addictive.

 

[snapbang]

I do like the smoke and smell, it's addictive.

When I shot by buck I was startled for a split second by all the smoke. Your right, Its addicting. Ill shoot another please.

 

[rusticbob]

Triple 7 works great in my T/C and CVA inclines. Very accurate, easy clean up. I only use real black in the side locks and flintlocks.
I just cannot justify the expense for BH209 for the little gain in accuracy and velocity I could possibly achieve .
I say what ever works for you, is wonderful.

 

[Greg_E]

People say that in a side percussion that it may not burn and you need magnum caps and maybe a thunder nipple. But so far I've had no issues with regular CCI caps. I do make sure to shake the rifle with the drum on the low side to try and shake some grains under the nipple. It is said to not work in a flint lock unless you prime with black and possibly shake some down through the flash hole. I don't have flint locks so haven't tried.

 

[Hausser1]

I shoot the 50 grainers out my nostril..

 

[Ninering62]

777??
You know that’s like taking the first sip of Koolaid and next you’ll be looking for 209 primers and BH209 for that in-line….

Thats the long way of saying " moving in the right direction " huh.

 

[rusticbob]

I see that some of you guys are really big on black powder-I hate the stuff simply because it stinks and is dirty, same goes for Pyrodex. I don't see any gain using either of those two over Triple Seven. Do those of you that swear by black powder actually see an advantage to using it in terms of accuracy?

Accuracy is relative. I use black powder in my flintlock and percussion guns because it ignites at a lower temperature, making my guns go BANG, first time, every time if I do my part.
I use T7 in my inline because it has more energy than either BP or Pyrodex, making those occasional long shots possible

 

[Squint]

I see that some of you guys are really big on black powder-I hate the stuff simply because it stinks and is dirty, same goes for Pyrodex. I don't see any gain using either of those two over Triple Seven. Do those of you that swear by black powder actually see an advantage to using it in terms of accuracy?

There is going to be lots of answers on this, but from my own experience I can tell you that 777 works in everything that you have, but there are problems with the flintlock trying to use anything but black. You can use duplex loads by putting a little bit of black in first and you have to use black for priming. I use 777 In percussion.
Squint

 

[Harley469]

There is going to be lots of answers on this, but from my own experience I can tell you that 777 works in everything that you have, but there are problems with the flintlock trying to use anything but black. You can use duplex loads by putting a little bit of black in first and you have to use black for priming. I use 777 In percussion.
Squint

I agree, I only use black with my flintlock (which I don't use much). I use 777 with all my other ML's that aren't smokeless.

 

[ETipp]

Ya know, the last week or so has been my first experimenting with 777. I've been going to the range and working up an accurate load for my sons new Optima. In doing so, I've been running a patch down the barrel after each shot, and when need be, running a brush down the barrel as well. With testing near complete (just need to bring the POI over 3/4" or so) I doubt I will be running any black powder through it.

With that said, I do plan on going back to the range soon to work up a load for a Black Night and my New Englander. This will be a good time to do a comparison between 777 loose, 777 pellets and black powder. There will be two areas I would like to compare. One being accuracy difference and the second being barrel fouling.

It is my intention to report on my findings.

 

[Harley469]

Ya know, the last week or so has been my first experimenting with 777. I've been going to the range and working up an accurate load for my sons new Optima. In doing so, I've been running a patch down the barrel after each shot, and when need be, running a brush down the barrel as well. With testing near complete (just need to bring the POI over 3/4" or so) I doubt I will be running any black powder through it.

With that said, I do plan on going back to the range soon to work up a load for a Black Night and my New Englander. This will be a good time to do a comparison between 777 loose, 777 pellets and black powder. There will be two areas I would like to compare. One being accuracy difference and the second being barrel fouling.

It is my intention to report on my findings.

Please do so. During target practice, I run several patches down the barrel after each shot (using 777). There is always a crud ring near the plug, so I lick the first patch.

 

[10gaugemag]

I may have to try some 3f 777 in my Hawken. I have a musket nipple so a little extra fire in the hole so to speak.

Maybe cut it back to 60 grains or so to see how it does.

 

[wvcritter]

I load 85 grains of 777 in 2F or 3F with a 250gr. saboted bullet, either hollow point or polymer tipped and they all shoot well in my plunger Knights with percussion caps. I've taken several deer over 150 yards, 1 at 200 yards and my latest kill was at 120 yards just this past week. I highly recommend it over Pyrodex which is the only other power I've ever used.

 

[ETipp]

Please do so. During target practice, I run several patches down the barrel after each shot (using 777). There is always a crud ring near the plug, so I lick the first patch.

I'm not sure what a crud ring is. I'm assuming it is a fouling ring area just in front of the breech plug? I do know that so far, with the CVA Optima and after running a patch down the barrel between each shot, that was fairly wet from TC 17 bore cleaner, I only experienced a fouling ring about 3-4 times max. And I shot quite a few rounds testing for the most accurate load. Those were the only times I ran a brush down the barrel that had a little cleaning solvent on it. It took very little to remove the fouling ring. Of course I always followed up with dry patch to ascertain the barrel was shiny clean before reloading. This is where I sing praises to quick release breech plugs on these ML. Makes it so easy to run patches out the barrel from the breech end and then hold the barrel up to the light to ascertain the is shiny clean.

I'm not sure how to even see a crud ring in front of the breech plug on my sidelock or my Black Knight inline, but as I have said, I really want to do a comparison between powders, in terms of fouling. May be a few days before I can get back at it.

 

[ETipp]

I load 85 grains of 777 in 2F or 3F with a 250gr. saboted bullet, either hollow point or polymer tipped and they all shoot well in my plunger Knights with percussion caps. I've taken several deer over 150 yards, 1 at 200 yards and my latest kill was at 120 yards just this past week. I highly recommend it over Pyrodex which is the only other power I've ever used.

That's good information. It helps give me a good starting point.

Thank you.

 

[ETipp]

I may have to try some 3f 777 in my Hawken. I have a musket nipple so a little extra fire in the hole so to speak.

Maybe cut it back to 60 grains or so to see how it does.

I am a little concerned about trying 777 in my New Englander with a stock cap nipple, even with Magnum caps. Considering I shoot Maxi Balls, if I do not get a good ignition, it could be a job pulling that projectile from the breech all the way out. I suppose if that were to occur I could try to reseat the Maxi Ball on the charge, pull the nipple and put a few grains of powder down the flash hole, put the nipple back on and try it again. Also, on my Hawken I have a nipple with a cover over it for use of a shotgun primer. I could switch those out as well as long as I could get the Maxi Ball reseated against the charge.

Has anyone out there ever used 777 loose or pellets in a TC sidelock with the stock cap nipple?

 

[Harley469]

I am a little concerned about trying 777 in my New Englander with a stock cap nipple, even with Magnum caps. Considering I shoot Maxi Balls, if I do not get a good ignition, it could be a job pulling that projectile from the breech all the way out. I suppose if that were to occur I could try to reseat the Maxi Ball on the charge, pull the nipple and put a few grains of powder down the flash hole, put the nipple back on and try it again. Also, on my Hawken I have a nipple with a cover over it for use of a shotgun primer. I could switch those out as well as long as I could get the Maxi Ball reseated against the charge.

Has anyone out there ever used 777 loose or pellets in a TC sidelock with the stock cap nipple?

If the charge doesn't go off, simply remove the nipple and pour just a few grains down the fire channel hole, screw the nipple back in and fire again. It will set off your main charge. Has happened to me numerous times when I was getting accustomed to my father's custom-made side lock. I would clean with a patch, all the way down to the bottom of the barrel, which pushed crud into the fire channel. That kept the cap from igniting the charge. These days I simply don't push my cleaning patches all the way down the barrel (about 2 inches shy of the fire channel).

 

[ETipp]

If the charge doesn't go off, simply remove the nipple and pour just a few grains down the fire channel hole, screw the nipple back in and fire again. It will set off your main charge. Has happened to me numerous times when I was getting accustomed to my father's custom-made side lock. I would clean with a patch, all the way down to the bottom of the barrel, which pushed crud into the fire channel. That kept the cap from igniting the charge. These days I simply don't push my cleaning patches all the way down the barrel (about 2 inches shy of the fire channel).

Indeed. As long as I know the projectile is seated properly, that would be the plan. I've only had to do that one time and that was after hunting in pouring down rain for a few hours. Its the only time I've ever had a misfire from a properly cleaned ML. At that time, I never knew about the measures to help prevent misfires due to rain.

 

[Greg_E]

I have only used 2f granulated 777 in my Traditions side lock with CCI #11 caps, not a lot of shots through it yet, but not a single issue so far. I do make sure to shake the rifle with the drum in a low spot to help get powder into the drum under the nipple, a simple habit to be formed from repetition. Also make sure the drum is facing away from you and the muzzle pointed away from you when filling, this cause a slight angle which again helps fill the drum with powder. I set the butt on my foot which forces this sideways rotation, don't want to scrape up the metal butt plate on the concrete at the club.

As to the crud ring, this form where the powder and projectile meet, most likely powder that doesn't really burn.