90 gr 2F Triple 7 equal to ?3F in volume

[GGALVIN]

I shoot a TC Renegade 50cal. side lock. I usually use 2F triple 7 with 90 grs.. I'm out of 2F and have plenty of 3F. By volume, how many grains should I use in 3F to equal the strength of 3F? I hope that is plain? I know 3F burns faster and maybe has more energy, so am guessing I should use maybe 10% less volume in 3F?
Thanks for your help, I don't want to blow my head off!

 

[Fyrstyk]

I would back off about 15% and work my way up to where your groups are where your original load of 2f was hitting.

 

[sabotloader]

I shoot a TC Renegade 50cal. side lock. I usually use 2F triple 7 with 90 grs.. I'm out of 2F and have plenty of 3F. By volume, how many grains should I use in 3F to equal the strength of 3F? I hope that is plain? I know 3F burns faster and maybe has more energy, so am guessing I should use maybe 10% less volume in 3F?
Thanks for your help, I don't want to blow my head off!

Hodgdon has always said that T7-3ff creates about 10% more pressure than the same weight charge of T7-2f. When I was shooting sidelocks I really preferred T7-3f to 2f because it was easier to ignite with caps. I really never found a significant difference in point of impact or velocity. I think part of this was because of the length of the barrel on the sidelocks. 3f maybe completely burned out by the time the projectile leaves the bore.

 

[Bull1]

I would start with 75 grains of 3f T-7 and see if you get good accuracy. Go up in five grain increments if accuracy isn't what you want it to be but don't exceed the maximum. Triple 7 burns hotter than traditional black powder so that may have some effect on your choice of patch material and type of lube. Just keep in mind that 3f T-7 cannot be used for cartridge reloading because it causes the brass to split due to work hardening. I know you're using a muzzleloader but it's something to keep in mind when approaching maximum loads.

 

[sabotloader]

Bull brings up a very good point... With either T7 powder If you are shooting anything that would require a patch or paper you will need to use a wad on top of the powder. If you are shooting a lead conical you may melt the bottom of the conical and again the use of a wad or shot card would be advised.

 

[toot]

remember that T-7 is 15 % hotter than regular SUB'S! or REGULAR BP!

 

[Philgumbo]

Bull brings up a very good point... With either T7 powder If you are shooting anything that would require a patch or paper you will need to use a wad on top of the powder. If you are shooting a lead conical you may melt the bottom of the conical and again the use of a wad or shot card would be advised.

I always use a wad......I believe they help make a better seal for the gases involved.....

 

[sabotloader]

Phil gumbo- PERFECT!

 

[Bull1]

I always use a wad......I believe they help make a better seal for the gases involved.....

I've never tried using wads when shooting patched round ball but I've always gotten great accuracy with the load I worked up in my .54. I did have a GPH barrel mounted on a Cabelas Hansen stock a few years ago and no matter which type of conical bullet I tried, accuracy always improved regardless of weight or type. They work in my experience.

 

[Philgumbo]

I season my barrel with Bore Butter as well.........I swear by that stuff.

 

[toot]

I have many times used a felt wad under the patched RB. with no problems in accuracy. I have many times used a felt wad over the powder & over the bare RB, again no problem. just what I have done many times.