All this rifle needed....

[Sharpsman]

was a new flint which I received 30 today. Rained 4" here last night :slaps: ....everything wet around the area but after wiping out the Canola oil I had wiped the  bore with I put a little 4F in the pan and she fired nicely the first slap of the frizzen! :cheers: Got to file down the front sight a little more to get it where I want it to be at 50 yards!

New Flint by Rick Mulhern, on Flickr

 

[Smokin' Joe]

That's too bad Sharpsman, I was thinking you were just about ready to accept a $100 bill from me to take it off your hands!   :lol:

Glad to hear she working fine!

 

[exMember]

Did you put a lil lube ( Good quality not canola!) on that frizzens roller? Might help things out even better.

 

[Sharpsman]

Did you put a lil lube ( Good quality not canola!) on that frizzens roller? Might help things out even better.

It's called....Lubriplate!

My 'Uncle Sam' issued me a can of it 50 years ago to lube my NM M1 Garand! I still have 1/2 can left! Doesn't take much! :cheers: :cheers:

Initially I put the wrong price up! You can get it in a 14 oz. can pretty reasonable!

 

[Randy Johnson]

I still think you should try turning the flint so the bevel is down instead of up. It is striking half way or maybe even a little less than half way. If the bevel is down it will scrape about 3/4 of the frizzen. At least try it. You might be really surprised.

 

[OSR]

I still think you should try turning the flint so the bevel is down instead of up. It is striking half way or maybe even a little less than half way. If the bevel is down it will scrape about 3/4 of the frizzen. At least try it. You might be really surprised.

This is one of those discussions that can go on forever.  Some like it up, some like it down. Some like the flint further back, some like it further forward.   :2 cents: If it works for you, it works.

 

[Muley Hunter]

I agree. Flip the flint over.

 

[Sharpsman]

I'll try it when the weather gets right! Nothing but rain here the past few days! Ground is so wet a hummingbird would need hip boots! And I'm sitting on top of a ridge!! :face: :Questuon:

 

[Muley Hunter]

You don't need to shoot a load to try it. Just fire it in a darker room and watch which way has more sparks.

 

[Sharpsman]

I'll do it!

 

[RonRC]

Pete is right. I use the "dark room" method to test for sparks.
Ron

 

[patocazador]

It makes absolutely no difference whether the flint bevel is positioned up or down. What matters is the angle at which the edge strikes the frizzen.
IMO, your flint is striking at an angle that is too acute to produce the maximum amount of sparks. Turning it upside down will provide an angle closer to 90 degrees and produce more sparks as Randy as has suggested.

 

[Muley Hunter]

It does matter. If it strikes the frizzen sooner it has longer to scrape it. Longer scrape means more sparks.

 

[exMember]

If you turn it upside down and its going to hit way to high up.

 

[Randy Johnson]

I still think you should try turning the flint so the bevel is down instead of up. It is striking half way or maybe even a little less than half way. If the bevel is down it will scrape about 3/4 of the frizzen. At least try it. You might be really surprised.

This is one of those discussions that can go on forever.  Some like it up, some like it down. Some like the flint further back, some like it further forward.   :2 cents: If it works for you, it works.

It really isn't a matter of how you like it, it is about the geometry between the jaws of the cock and the frizzen.
I have owned more flintlocks than I can remember. Some worked best with the bevel up, some worked best with the bevel down. What is important is that as much hot steel hits the pan as possible. And the flint scraping 3/4 of the frizzen is always going to produce more sparks than a flint that just scrapes half.

 

[Sharpsman]

OK guys...I flipped it over and it wouldn't fire one time! :scratch: :Questuon: Tried it several times! Put it back the way it was and it would light right up! I was shooting in a stiff wind and I figured priming the pan in a high wind....is a trick.....even shielding the pan with my body...it's still a trick!! Dang humidity here must be 90% when I was shooting...no sunshine all day! Shot 15 shots and only had three duds! I think the dang wind was some of the problem! I've got to do one of two things; either get a higher rear sight or....take the front sight down about 1/2 more from what it is right now!

 

[Muley Hunter]

Makes no sense that it wouldn't fire at all. Was it throwing sparks?

 

[Sharpsman]

Flash in pan...one time! I used the vent pick also! Had wiped the frizzen and rock was sharp! :Questuon:Was using 4F in the pan...2F in main charge.

 

[Standing Bear]

Look at sights on Track of the Wolf.  They give dimensions and prints to scale. You can calculate the amount of movement required. 

X= amt of sight movement required
R= sight radius in inches say 21"
P= poi impact change desired in inches say 5"
D= distance to target also in inches say 50 yards or 1800"

X/R = P/D
X/21=5/1800
X= 21 (5)/1800
X= 105/1800 = .05833

In this scenario the front sight needs to be lowered or rear sight raised about .058"
If buying a new rear sight you want to get one enough higher to help.

 

[Standing Bear]

I use FFg for the main charge and FFFFg in the pan all the time. First open the touch hole to 1/16".  Then when shooting and wiping between shots don't wipe all the way to bottom just to the crud ring or you can push debris down and cover the flash hole. 
TC