Basic Steps to Muzzleloading?

[mjmorrismd]

Greetings everyone, I am a traditional bowhunter and I want to become a part of the ML community. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the tools, techniques, and processes. I've read a great deal of the posts on this site. I am greatful for such a wonderful database of knowledge, however, I cant find a clear (yet detailed) set of mandatory steps for pre-fire and post-fire ? I say mandatory because I've read several posts about what this person does or what that person may do but I cant keep it all straight at this point. Can you help me find this information? Is there a recommened video that would help clarify? Your thoughts please?

v/r
Matthew

 

[ozark]

I think it is wise of you to prepare yourself knowledge wise before jumping into it. For me and I am sure as well for others what you are going to use is important. Black Powder? Smokeless Powder, duplex powders etc. The list of bullets, sabots, brand names etc is long. For example if you are going with a Savage MLII I could probably help you. If something else I would be guessing.

 

[mjmorrismd]

Good points thanks ozark. I thought (perhaps foolishly) there is a basic set of steps regardless of powder type or bullet choice. Lets assume I go with a Savage MLII.....can I get a feel for what to do before and after the shot?

Thanks
M

 

[ozark]

With the Savage comes a booklet with three different reccommended powders. This book instructs owners how to disassemble the rifle, how to clean the major parts, how to load and shoot it. The first step is to read and digest the information in the booklet.
After getting this familiarization course I would try to find someone with experience shooting muzzle loader to accompany you during the first session at a range or a place to shoot at coke cans, cardboard boxes or other targets. Using a book recommended load of book recommended powder you will need bullets. I think 250 or 300 grain Hornady XTPs should be fine. Start with 40 grains of powder using a dipper or scales to measure the amount.
Recoil will not be any more than the ordinary deer rifle so there is no need to be afraid.
Since you will be pressing a bullet down on top of powder you will have a natural fear that the powder might ignite with the ramrod and your hands and body in a dangerous place. Although the bullet needs to be pressed tight against the powder this is not a danger. The only time things get real dangerous is after you insert the primer into its recess in the face of the bolt and close the bolt. It then becomes a loaded weapon.

I believe this will get your first shots down range and you will soon become relaxed and aware that nothing is dangerous except shooter carelessness. If you do it right then it is great fun. You get the satisfaction that you are building the load and then shooting it.

Soon after you start shooting the Savage you get a disease called Savagitis. This causes one to buy a tool box full of stuff and speaking in a different language. You find yourself saying strange things like POI, MOA, LOS, MV, FPS, BC, and pressure curves and talking to people on this and other forums giving advice or asking for it.

Yesterdey I coulent spel muzal loder. Today I are one. Ozark

 

[cayuga]

ARE YOU READY TO SHOOT YOUR RIFLE?



If I were in your shoes....

#1 unpack the rifle and look it over.
#2 read the manual cover to cover until you UNDERSTAND the contents of it
#3 clean the rifle including all parts
#4 use a quality breech plug grease and grease the threads of the breech plug then screw the breech plug back in to the rifle finger tight only... do not crank on that plug. In fact after I put them in finger tight, I then turn them back about an 1/8th of a turn.


You are now ready to prepare to shoot the rifle

#5 swab the barrel of the rifle with a patch with some alcohol on it.
#6 push a dry patch to the bottom of the barrel on a jag and fire a 209 primer into that patch. Then pull the patch and check it to make sure the fire from the primer is coming through the breech plug into the barrel
#7 shoot off three more 209 primers. This will make sure the breech plug is clean and also put a light fowling in the barrel for you.

You are now ready to load the rifle

#8 measure out and place 100 grains of powder in the rifle in pellet or loose form, pouring or dropping this down the barrel.
#9 put the correct size projectile in to the correct size sabot and place that sabot into the crown of the muzzle. This is where I take a wad of patch material, put it over the nose of the projectile and push the projectile under the crown of the muzzle with my thumb. The patch material is more for the benefit of my thumb and not the projectile.
#10 with the long end of your short starter push the projectile into the bore of the rifle
#11 with your correct loading jag attached to the end of your range rod or ramrod push the projectile in as smooth a downward fashion as possible until you feel the projectile hit the powder charge. Make sure the projectile is seated firmly on the powder charge.
#12 leaving your ramrod still in the barrel of the rifle resting on the projectile, take a piece of masking tape and wrap the tape even to the end of the muzzle around your ramrod. This is called the Witness Mark and every time you load the rifle with the same powder charge and projectile you should reach this mark where the tape will be level to the muzzle of the rifle. With the Witness mark now in place on the ramrod

#13 REMOVE THE RAMROD FROM THE BARREL OF THE RIFLE

#14 place a 209 shotgun primer on the breech plug of the rifle located at the breech end of the barrel.
#15 With a target at 25 or 50 yards fire your first shot of out of the rifle
#16 take a patch with a cleaning solution and using a bore brush or cleaning jag on the end of a second ramrod preferably which you will use for swabbing the barrel only, run a wet patch down the barrel. When swabbing the barrel run the patch in short strokes starting at the muzzle. I like to run about four inches at a time in a back and fourth motion, increasing the length of the stroke and patch until I am finally all the way to the breech end of the rifle.
#17 run one or two dry patches down the barrel again in short strokes running from the muzzle to the breech to dry all the moisture out of the barrel. This will also remove extra fowling
#18. It is a good idea to take your time here. I like to swab the barrel clean, and then walk to the target and check the target before I even load the next shot. This gives the barrel time to cool. It also gives you time to calm down, relax and consider what you might have done right or wrong.
#19 now load your rifle in the exact same manner as you did the first time. Make sure you reach your witness mark. Aim for the same spot on the target as you did the first time. Do not adjust your point of aim because of where your first shot hit. Try and hold the rifle the same as you did the first time, with the same sight picture, and fire the second shot.
#20 After seven to ten shots on the range take your breech plug wrench and just twist the breech plug back and fourth. You do not have to remove it. All you are doing is making sure that the breech plug is not seizing in the breech. And wipe off any excess fowling on the breech plug or that area with isopropyl alcohol on a patch or Q-tip
#21 After you have fired a few shots check the size of the group you are getting. If you are satisfied with it, great. You can decide if you want to increase/decrease the powder charge at this point, adjust the sights or scope (which I do not recommend until you are really happy with the group you are shooting), or just keep shooting the same load having fun....

I am sure I forgot a lot of steps and ask other posters to help me out, and you out by correcting me here... this should get you moving on the range...

is this what you might have been looking for information wise?

 

[mjmorrismd]

Are You Ready To Shoot Your Rifle

Thanks Cayuga and all....but this is exactly what I was looking for. Additionally, I found the owners manual to a T/C Triumph on-line and read over it several times. Now which rifle......Savage, T/C, Knight, ahh...the choices.

I'll be posting more questions; probably like, what are some of the quality products I should get to make my ML life more efficient and proficient.

Thanks
Matthew

 

[cayuga]

Just be sure and know the laws of your State and what is and is not allowed. If your State allows smokeless powder like Wisconsin, then that Savage would be a nice rifle. Otherwise you have the Triumph, the Knight Rolling Block, and even some excellent traditional rifles are hitting the market.