I finally shot a few rounds thru my .50 cal Knight LRH and Elite rifles, using the FPJ plug with 100 gr BH209 and Winchester 209A primers and 290 barnes with yellow sabots. Got good ignition. Easy to load 2nd and 3rd rounds. I was able to easily clean the barrel with Hoppe #9 solvent. Breechplug was easy to remove with some carbon in the flashhole and nipple areas. Hand removed with drill bit. Have not shot for accuracy yet. I noticed a ring of carbon in the receiver area just in front of the nipple side of the breech plug. I have scrubbed the daylights out with brass brush and Hoppes. I can't seem to get rid of it. In my LRH, the area also appears to have a slight coloration to it, like intense heat discoloration. Never saw this with 777. I know the BH209 is supposed to have somewhat similar pressure curve as 777 , maybe lower. Does anyone know if BH209 burns hotter? Has anyone seen the carbon ring like I have seen? I like to keep my guns spotless, so I'm concerned about this and may dicontinue using it, though I like most other properties of it. If anyone can shed some light on this, i would be very grateful. Also, any suggestions on another product to get the mess out. I even soaked a piece of 00 fine steel wool ,and scrubbed hard. Still didn't fully clean. Thanks a lot. Really hate to go back to 777, but don't won't this carbon buildup.
BH 209 Question
- Thread starter tndeer
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I got the same carbon build up in an Omega when shooting Blackhorn209--in the breech plug "flash channel" (had to be drilled out, like I do with my Savage smokeless), on the breech face where the firing pin hole is, inside the cupped, powder-end of the breech plug, and around the breech end of the barrel , behind the primer end of the breech plug.
The stuff is hard to get off--I scrubbed with Hoppe's#9 and a bronze brush. In many ways I have found BH209 harder to clean up than 777. BH209 takes longer and takes more elbow grease, BUT your gun does not have to be spotless when shooting BH209. It truly does seem to be noncorrossive. I left my Omega four full weeks without cleaning and there was no rust and no corrosion.
But I am also a former Marine and like clean weapons... I don't mind cleaning rifles and it takes me about 45 minutes to get my Omega spotless.
I have gone through three containers of BH209 and probably won't buy more unless the price comes down around $17 to $20 for a full pound, not $30 for 10 ounces. With 777 I have to spit patch between shots and I have to clean within a day or two of shooting, but I don't care. 777 is a lot less expensive and is more accurate in my Omegas. JMO
The stuff is hard to get off--I scrubbed with Hoppe's#9 and a bronze brush. In many ways I have found BH209 harder to clean up than 777. BH209 takes longer and takes more elbow grease, BUT your gun does not have to be spotless when shooting BH209. It truly does seem to be noncorrossive. I left my Omega four full weeks without cleaning and there was no rust and no corrosion.
But I am also a former Marine and like clean weapons... I don't mind cleaning rifles and it takes me about 45 minutes to get my Omega spotless.
I have gone through three containers of BH209 and probably won't buy more unless the price comes down around $17 to $20 for a full pound, not $30 for 10 ounces. With 777 I have to spit patch between shots and I have to clean within a day or two of shooting, but I don't care. 777 is a lot less expensive and is more accurate in my Omegas. JMO
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tndeer
I shot a few rounds of it in my White U-Mag and had the same carbon ring you talk about on the floor of the reciever. I was a job to get it out of there. It seemed baked on pretty hard. Ended up using a regular bore solvent and steel wool with a dowel to finally remove it. It is really tough stuff.
I shot a few rounds of it in my White U-Mag and had the same carbon ring you talk about on the floor of the reciever. I was a job to get it out of there. It seemed baked on pretty hard. Ended up using a regular bore solvent and steel wool with a dowel to finally remove it. It is really tough stuff.
Yep, i know what your talking about. My breech plug cleans up good other than the flash hole. It can be cleaned up with a drill bit. Barrel wipes out good. I wonder if the extra heat from the regular 209 primer causes the carbon. Never saw this with 777 primers and 777 powder. Wonder if the TC guys are seeing this. I'm goiny to call Western Powders this week and see if they have a clue.
My T/Cs stayed completely clean, except for the plugs.
Both the Omega and Encore seemed to seal up pretty tight at the primer, which wasn't the case with T7 and why I loved the .25ACP system. This is the 1st time trying Win 209 primers and that may be why - maybe tighter or softer material and deform to seal. :?: Didn't get any back spray into the rifles when shooting but I did when I snapped a couple caps without loading. I cleaned everything with spray RemOil and the deposit came off real easy but the holes are still crusted up and will need a drill. I hadn't planned on cleaning them but just sprayed a good shot of RemOil down the bores and ran a few patches soaked in the stuff down and by about #4 they came back clean so I was happy. I think the blued barrel may have taken a few more patches. It's kind of cool that the RemOil 'sqeaks' when run on a patch through a clean rifle -is that 'squeaky clean'? :wink: I got 20 shots with no swabbing until I noticed the ignition was slowing and quit so definitly will get drill for the kit.
Both the Omega and Encore seemed to seal up pretty tight at the primer, which wasn't the case with T7 and why I loved the .25ACP system. This is the 1st time trying Win 209 primers and that may be why - maybe tighter or softer material and deform to seal. :?: Didn't get any back spray into the rifles when shooting but I did when I snapped a couple caps without loading. I cleaned everything with spray RemOil and the deposit came off real easy but the holes are still crusted up and will need a drill. I hadn't planned on cleaning them but just sprayed a good shot of RemOil down the bores and ran a few patches soaked in the stuff down and by about #4 they came back clean so I was happy. I think the blued barrel may have taken a few more patches. It's kind of cool that the RemOil 'sqeaks' when run on a patch through a clean rifle -is that 'squeaky clean'? :wink: I got 20 shots with no swabbing until I noticed the ignition was slowing and quit so definitly will get drill for the kit.
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I tried almost every kind of solvent ? no luck on the carbon. I use a wire brush on a cordless dremel tool to clean but still it is a pain. I have gotten so I leave a coating of anti-seize leftover from the breech plug to coat some of the places the carbon gets the just wipe it off when I clean.
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Sheesh! I've said that for years. 
A
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Numbness..... :lol: :shock:
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Not to question you really practical people, but is it not the purpose of the FPG to make the breech water proof? Not that I take my ML swimming any to often.
Is the NFPJ water proof?
Jus askin
Is the NFPJ water proof?
Jus askin
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I don't think either are waterproof, but sink a few 209 primers in a glass of water for an hour then try firing them. Knight created a demand for a product that was never needed and was the only one selling that product.
Pretty cool business strategy... but I can't see adding additional required consumables when a proper design could have eliminated any benefit of such a component - real or imagined. Some say they are easier to handle but my old hands much prefer a 209 capper.
Pretty cool business strategy... but I can't see adding additional required consumables when a proper design could have eliminated any benefit of such a component - real or imagined. Some say they are easier to handle but my old hands much prefer a 209 capper.
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UC
Naw! it wasn't designed to protect the 209 primer.... it was designed to keep water from making it's way into and through the nipple to the powder.... Dats why ya can swim with da gun and it will still shoot.... With a NFPJ it MIGHT be possible to git water a throo da nipple to da powder... if you ya drop da gu nin da pond...
Naw! it wasn't designed to protect the 209 primer.... it was designed to keep water from making it's way into and through the nipple to the powder.... Dats why ya can swim with da gun and it will still shoot.... With a NFPJ it MIGHT be possible to git water a throo da nipple to da powder... if you ya drop da gu nin da pond...
sabotloader said:
It is SAID to be. But if it's raining THAT hard..I'm INSIDE, not OUTSIDE!
I can tell you that RIGHT NOW Knight Rifles thinks the FPJ ignition system is the BEST THING GOING! REALLY! As Thompson/Centers market ever increases and as Traditions moves to #3 in sales(Knight #4) they STILL think that!
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I wonder why Knight doesn't simply market a self-contained FPIM (full plastic ignition module) instead of the jackets. They surely wouldn't cost more than another couple of cents each on the production end and Knight could probably charge quadruple for their new and improved FPIM.
PowerBelts, pellets, and FPIMs could be sold at drive-thru liquor stores.
PowerBelts, pellets, and FPIMs could be sold at drive-thru liquor stores.
Whats the big deal on water proofing? I used to pick up 10buck now and then from the uneducated buy betting I could submerge my Hawken barrel in the crick for one minute and it would still fire, it fired every time too. Lee
