Casting question Maxi ball & Rb

[Gus8255]

Using lyman steel molds. Getting layering and pitting, bullets are not smooth. I've made sure molds are hot and has improved but still getting some of the same results. The edges of the sprue is clean and sharp. Any suggestions? Photos attached. Thanks

 

[MSalyards]

Heat up your melt . 750- 800 degrees. Layering is caused by low heat and too slow of a pour.

 

[Gus8255]

Heat up your melt . 750- 800 degrees. Layering is caused by low heat and too slow of a pour.

Its lee melting pot no temp setting just plug in.

 

[Idaholewis]

It’s your mold, Make sure it’s REALLY CLEAN, and Get it HOTTER! You want to Slightly Overheat your Mold. Keep the Mold Closed and Dip the Bottom of it in the Molten lead, If it’s an Aluminum Mold it will Heat MUCH Faster than Steel, For an Aluminum Mold count 2, 2-1/2 Full Minutes with it in the Molten Lead. When you Pour the First Bullet you want the Sprue Puddle to “Dance” for 30 seconds, even a minute. When the Sprue finally Solidifies Count 30-45 Seconds and dump/Cull that Bullet, you don’t want to Open the Mold to Quick, if the Bullet has not Solidified it will get all over your Mold Halves and make a Mess

Keep Casting, and Culling about 4-5 Bullets, this Allows the Mold to “Settle” Down and enter the “Zone”, Now Start Keeping, if you Followed the Directions above, your Bullets should be PERFECT like this, SHARP edges, and Base

 

[Idaholewis]

If you are using a Lee Bottom pour 20 Pound Pot, a Good dial setting is 5-6, I have 3 of these Pots and that is where i run all of them. Doesn’t mean yours will be the Same as mine? But i feel it’s a Good Starting Point.

It is DARN nice to Know what Temp your Melt is? I rarely use mine anymore as I know where the Dials need to be on my Pots, But i do Stil use it from time to time to Check, and For Different Alloys, ESPECIALLY Lyman #2 for My Rifle Bullets. Here is the Best deal i know of for a GOOD Quality Lead/Alloy Thermometer. This is Made by RCBS for Rotometals
https://www.rotometals.com/lead-bullet-casting-thermometer-6/

 

[Gus8255]

Watched your video on casting and put the steel mold in for a minute and the results were better. Maybe I should let it in longer? Cant adjust temp it doesn't have an adjustment. Thanks Gus

 

[Idaholewis]

Watched your video on casting and put the steel mold in for a minute and the results were better. Maybe I should let it in longer? Cant adjust temp it doesn't have an adjustment. Thanks Gus

DEFINITELY Get the Mold HOTTER!!

I started using a Cheap Digital Kitchen Timer at my Casting Station, this way I know EXACTLY how long the Mold has been in the Molten Lead/Alloy. My Steel Lyman Molds take about 3 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat (Which is what i am trying to accomplish ) My Accurate Molds are MUCH Heavier and Take 5-6 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat.

Once you Over Heat the Mold Slightly, Keep Casting and Dumping them until the Mold “Settles Down” and enters the Optimal Casting Zone. Yes the Mold WILL Cool Down as you Cast, About 5-6 Bullets, Then Start Keeping them

 

[Idaholewis]

Watched your video on casting and put the steel mold in for a minute and the results were better. Maybe I should let it in longer? Cant adjust temp it doesn't have an adjustment. Thanks Gus

Don’t get discouraged, Keep at it!! Practice makes perfect. Believe me, I didn’t learn this overnight. As I’ve said before, Casting didn’t come Real Easy to me, it took me some time to get it down, But i put the time in and Kept at it til i got it! Now i can Grab ANY Mold, Brand New or Used, Don’t Matter? One i have NEVER Cast With, Again Don’t matter? Give me just a Few Minutes with it and i am Turning Out Perfect Bullets with it I say it’s a LOT like learning to Ride a Bicycle, All of a Sudden it starts to Come together, and you GOT IT!!

 

[michiganmuzzy]

Lewis your bullets look so good i sometimes think you might have machined them or something. I have learnt a ton about casting from you.

 

[Idaholewis]

Lewis your bullets look so good i sometimes think you might have machined them or something. I have learnt a ton about casting from you.

Thank you for the kind words Michiganmuzzy, i truly enjoy helping others with this Stuff, it’s just as Rewarding to me when i see someone like yourself get good use out of some of the Info i post, as it was when I discovered how to do it myself. Most of my Stuff is on here to Try and Help Folks along

This stuff really isn’t difficult, a guy just has to Jump in and do it!

 

[jsmuddydogs]

Its lee melting pot no temp setting just plug in.

You need to know your pot temp so you need a thermometer. Getting your pot temp up will solve your problem plus you will get better consistency between casting patches.

 

[sdporter]

It’s your mold, Make sure it’s REALLY CLEAN, and Get it HOTTER! You want to Slightly Overheat your Mold. Keep the Mold Closed and Dip the Bottom of it in the Molten lead, If it’s an Aluminum Mold it will Heat MUCH Faster than Steel, For an Aluminum Mold count 2, 2-1/2 Full Minutes with it in the Molten Lead. When you Pour the First Bullet you want the Sprue Puddle to “Dance” for 30 seconds, even a minute. When the Sprue finally Solidifies Count 30-45 Seconds and dump/Cull that Bullet, you don’t want to Open the Mold to Quick, if the Bullet has not Solidified it will get all over your Mold Halves and make a Mess

Keep Casting, and Culling about 4-5 Bullets, this Allows the Mold to “Settle” Down and enter the “Zone”, Now Start Keeping, if you Followed the Directions above, your Bullets should be PERFECT like this, SHARP edges, and Base

I think that is the best looking Maxi Ball I have ever seen.

 

[Gus8255]

Don’t get discouraged, Keep at it!! Practice makes perfect. Believe me, I didn’t learn this overnight. As I’ve said before, Casting didn’t come Real Easy to me, it took me some time to get it down, But i put the time in and Kept at it til i got it! Now i can Grab ANY Mold, Brand New or Used, Don’t Matter? One i have NEVER Cast With, Again Don’t matter? Give me just a Few Minutes with it and i am Turning Out Perfect Bullets with it I say it’s a LOT like learning to Ride a Bicycle, All of a Sudden it starts to Come together, and you GOT IT!!

Thanks you and the others for your responses. I'll leave it in longer. and considering another pot if this doesnt work. I have a turkey fryer thermometer that might work. At any rate I'll post some pics when problem is resolved.

 

[michiganmuzzy]

I use an infrared temp gun i already had bought from SnapOn.

 

[Scotts98rt]

I use a temp gun from harbor freight. Like 10.00.like the othersame have said it's a temp. issue. Let it he lead heat up til you see a purple ish. Color to the lead. When I see that I know that the lead is hot enough. Assuming that I can't find my laser temp guage.

 

[Gus8255]

Well I have 2 lyman molds that are the same model number and both fit differently in the bore. They are both maxi ball molds. One fits snug the very bottom ring and the other slips down to the top ring, bang the barrel with my hand and falls out. Can molds very that much? I also wondered if the sprue plate has anything to do with it and I dont know whether or not maxi balls are supposed to be tapered for ease of loading. The model number is Lyman 504617.

 

[Idaholewis]

Well I have 2 lyman molds that are the same model number and both fit differently in the bore. They are both maxi ball molds. One fits snug the very bottom ring and the other slips down to the top ring, bang the barrel with my hand and falls out. Can molds very that much? I also wondered if the sprue plate has anything to do with it and I dont know whether or not maxi balls are supposed to be tapered for ease of loading. The model number is Lyman 504617.

Maxi balls are Tapered by Design, The top band is Called the “Driving Band” it is what engages the Rifling, the Bottom bands are Much Smaller to Easily fit in the Bore

 

[Idaholewis]

If the Bullets are Cast of PURE Lead, and loosen up as you Push them down the Bore? The Fix i came up with for that is to go to a Slightly Harder Alloy, My Choice was 1-40 Alloy. Pure lead has a Tendency to “Give up/Strip” As you push the Bullet Down the Bore, Sometimes becoming loose enough that they might Not Stay Put on the Powder Charge? You DON’T Want that! You want the Bullet to Stay Put on the Powder Charge and NOT MOVE until you Pull the Trigger

 

[Gus8255]

From reading your previous posts I thought the bottom band was supposed to be snug. I thought the bottom ring on the base of the bullet is what engages in the rifling. I thought that was the reason for the wool wads,to keep the charge from escaping. Dont know why one mold is snug and the other loose. Sort of scary on the loose one,wonder if I should even try to shoot that one.

 

[Idaholewis]

From reading your previous posts I thought the bottom band was supposed to be snug. I thought the bottom ring on the base of the bullet is what engages in the rifling. I thought that was the reason for the wool wads,to keep the charge from escaping. Dont know why one mold is snug and the other loose. Sort of scary on the loose one,wonder if I should even try to shoot that one.

When you pull the Trigger, The Bullet will Obturate (FILL The Bore) But the Bullet should Go down the Bore and “HOLD” on the Powder Charge. A bullet that is REALLY loose is no good.

You will see me refer to “Land/Bore” Rider Bullets, What i am talking about here is a Bullet that just Barely Touches The Rifling on the Way Down, The weight of my Ramrod alone will load these Type of Bullets, This is a TARGET Bullet for me, NOT a Hunting Bullet, Hunting and Target are 2 VERY DIFFERENT Ways i Load. I want my Hunting Bullets to Go down Snug/Tight, and STAY PUT on the Powder Charge. The Wool Wad on top of the Powder (Between the Bullet Base and Powder) is to protect the Bullet Base, by Creating a Seal and NOT allowing Flame/Gasses To escape around the Bullet (Through the Grooves) The Bullet Obturate's upon Firing, FILLING the Bore