CVA .32 cal Squirrel Rifle

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LAUDY1962

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I have purchased NIB squirrel rifle that I found at an estate sale Beautiful little gun. I was told not to shoot a substitute BP in it. So.... I have been shooting 25 and 30 grns of Swiss 3 fg. It really fouls quick. I mean the second shot is fouled. I do not want swab after each shot. I have never had such a temperamental sidelock. That being said I been shooting BP for over 30 years never a small caliber like this. Any pointers
 
Try a different lube
I have used bore butter and Mr Flintlock. Maybe I just need to shoot it more, get it all seasoned. Can I shoot a BP sub in this rifle. I have not heard I can't just some buddies telling me I should not on the small caliber
 
Something i found on Lee Shaver’s i figured i would share


Lee Shaver’s Break-in Procedure

Having used the jacketed bullet/clean-between-shot process in the past and
specifically Badger’s procedure when breaking-in one of my Browning BPCRs, I
was not looking forward to repeating the very lengthy process with my other
Browning’s. Fortunately Lee Shaver came to the rescue with his much simpler and
less time consuming process. With permission from Lee I’ve included the details
of his procedure. It’s from a larger article Lee published in the May 2013 edition
of The Single Shot Exchange Magazine.

Excerpt from “Breaking In a Barrel” by Lee Shaver:
Several years ago, I developed a process for breaking-in barrels for lead bullet use
that eliminated the afternoon of shooting and cleaning with jacketed bullet. It
began because I would occasionally have to get bad leading out of a barrel for a
customer, and when you charge what a gunsmith must charge to stay in business
you don’t want to spend an afternoon scrubbing the lead out of a customer’s gun.
And I’m sure the customer would rather not pay for said services.

What I learned was that when scrubbing lead out of a barrel, I could run a tight oily
patch through a few times and then take the patch off the jag. I would then unroll a
little 0000 steel wool and cut a piece the size of the patch. Place that over the
patch and then run it all through together. (The proper fit is when you have to
bump the rod a few times with the palm of your hand to get it started in the bore.)
When you shove that steel wool over a patch through the bore of a badly leaded
barrel, it may sound like paper tearing as the lead is ripped out of the barrel in a
pass or two. I can clean the lead out of the worst barrel in about ten or fifteen
minutes that way, and an average leaded barrel will be clean in a few strokes.

After using this technique for a while, I began to notice that the rifles that I was de-
leading that way seemed to lead less afterwards, which got me to thinking. We use
fine steel wool on the outside of old guns all the time to do some cleaning or spot
rust removal, and it does not damage the surface of the steel. It just scrubs it.
Which lead me to consider the fact that we are trying to break in a barrel by
smoothing the surface without cutting, and it seems to me that process would go
much quicker if we used something on the inside of the bore that was closer to the
hardness of the barrel instead of lead or copper. So I started trying the steel wool
and oiled patch technique on new barrels before shooting them. I use it about as
tight as I can get in the bore and wear out a steel wool pad or two in about 15
minutes, then I go and shoot the rifle.

How well does it work you might ask? On a few occasions, I have built a new rifle
and taken it to a match without ever having fired the rifle. All have performed
flawlessly in their first match and several times I won the match or set a record
with them. On one occasion, I set a new 300 yard range record with the first 13
shots out of a barrel. This method has become a service we offer to our customers
here in the shop and I have shared the technique many times with others.

So the next time you get ready to shoot that new rifle, just remember it is important
to break in a barrel properly, but if the operation you are doing to the barrel cuts –
it is not breaking it in. It may be making the barrel smoother, but to break the
barrel in you need to polish the bore by burnishing not cutting either by shooting it
or scrubbing it.
Lee Shaver
 
Some small bores foul quickly I would try some Damp patches using TOW Mink Oil or Hoppes BP Cleaner and Lube. I haven't used Mr. Flintlocks Lube but try it with a fairly Damp patch and see how it works for you. You got a great little gun and if the bore is in good shape, I am sure you will get shooting well. I would stick with the real Black, and you can reduce your charge and see how that does. I shoot 15 grains in my 32s.
 
USE TRIPLE 7 i had one and that was all id shoot just because of your mentioned problem..bore butter even fouls it because its so small that the powder wont drop all the way down.YUP been through it
 
USE TRIPLE 7 i had one and that was all id shoot just because of your mentioned problem..bore butter even fouls it because its so small that the powder wont drop all the way down.YUP been through it
Must be a CVA thing. I just got in from squirrel hunting with my .32 Crockett Squirrel Rifle. Forgot to bring any cleaning solvent with me. I shot and reloaded 9 times and the ball still was easy to seat. Shooting .310 ball, 20 gains of 3F black powder and .015" patches lubed with some older and thicker bore butter.
 
Shooting .310 ball, 20 gains of 3F black powder and .015" patches

I can get close.
I'm expecting my .32 in tomorrow. I have .315 balls and .010 patches. I bought some pre-lubed patches, but also some plain cotton in case I want to switch up the lube. And for cleaning.

Just curious, has anyone ever done a comparison between larger ball diameter and thinner patching compared to smaller ball diameter and thicker patching; with the total size being close? .005" in this case?
 
I can get close.
I'm expecting my .32 in tomorrow. I have .315 balls and .010 patches. I bought some pre-lubed patches, but also some plain cotton in case I want to switch up the lube. And for cleaning.

Just curious, has anyone ever done a comparison between larger ball diameter and thinner patching compared to smaller ball diameter and thicker patching; with the total size being close? .005" in this case?
I have not. Only .310 ball. Haven't shot this rifle very much. I did try straight Crisco and straight bear grease (the real stuff) for patch lube and the both of them blew .015" cotton patches to pieces. Not so with the ones lubed with some old stiffer bore butter. 20 grains of 3F black powder.
 
I have shot both .310 an .015 patch and .315 with .010 patch. They both shoot pretty well out to 50 yards but the .315 ball shoots a little better and is what I use to hunt. I always try and use the heaviest ball for caliber when shooting roundball even if it is just a few grains heavier. I have had a couple guns that needed a smaller ball and heavier patch but not most. As a disclaimer I shoot small caliber almost exclusively.
 
Must be a CVA thing. I just got in from squirrel hunting with my .32 Crockett Squirrel Rifle. Forgot to bring any cleaning solvent with me. I shot and reloaded 9 times and the ball still was easy to seat. Shooting .310 ball, 20 gains of 3F black powder and .015" patches lubed with some older and thicker bore butter.
yeah you can on cold days...when its hot out the butter is a mess moisture messes with the fouling.ITS great you got out got 9 shots.productive fun day
 
I have purchased NIB squirrel rifle that I found at an estate sale Beautiful little gun. I was told not to shoot a substitute BP in it. So.... I have been shooting 25 and 30 grns of Swiss 3 fg. It really fouls quick. I mean the second shot is fouled. I do not want swab after each shot. I have never had such a temperamental sidelock. That being said I been shooting BP for over 30 years never a small caliber like this. Any pointers
Swiss is the least nastiest too
 
yeah you can on cold days...when its hot out the butter is a mess moisture messes with the fouling.ITS great you got out got 9 shots.productive fun day

Thank you. It was a great day of hunting for sure.

You might be correct with the typical, thinner Bore Butter. Not arguing that one bit and I'm not to the mind set that Bore Butter is the best. However, the Bore Butter I am using is old, fairly dried out and very stiff. So much so that its difficult to get it out of the two containers. I am sure its at least 20 years old. It used to belong to my late dad and I got some of his ML stuff when he passed. Its simply the only patch lube I had on hand so I have been using it with good results, so far anyway.

What I have found by being able to reload 9 times (after 10 shots total) is considering the ball still seated easily, I might be able to go to .018" patches instead of .015" patches.
 

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