CVA Wolf problems

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pirate14

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I have owned my CVS Wolf for about 5 years now with no issues. Started sighting it in Saturday and the firing pin got stuck in the "fire" position.
1. I can tap the firing pin back down but once I fire again it stays in the fire position. I have tried to unscrew the firing pin bushing but it is the older model and I cannot get a screw driver to fit the small gap.

2. When taking the forend off to have better access to the firing pin mechanism the flange holding the barrel to the forend separated from the barrel. Now I cannot figure out how to put the flange back on the barrel.

Has anyone had any experience with either of these problems and know how to fix them?
 
Sound like the firing pin has some crud built up from over the years and has a sticky spot, if you can't get it apart some solvent and compressed air might do the trick! Then a good thin oiling of the mechanism after cleaning


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Welcome to the group. Someone should be on here shortly to help you with the barrel flange problem. Keep us posted with your progress.

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Steelheader323 said:
Sound like the firing pin has some crud built up from over the years and has a sticky spot, if you can't get it apart some solvent and compressed air might do the trick! Then a good thin oiling of the mechanism after cleaning


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It is also possible the spring in the firing pin bushing is broken but if it hasn't been out in 5 years I would guess Steelheader 323 is on the right track. I am not that familiar with the Wolf, but if it like the other CVA rifles, the flage for the forearm screw is spring steel and just clips into the grooves on the bottom of the barrel. You might have to carefully pry it apart a bit to get it to snap in.
 
Thank you everyone for the responses. I worked on it a little bit this afternoon and did not make much headway. I am able to tap the firing pin all the way back down but it has no "resistance" from the spring. My guess is the spring is broke or extremely gummed up. My biggest problem is that the groove in the bushing is soo shallow that I cannot get a screwdriver to get enough grip to unscrew it. I have ordered a new firing pin and bushing kit. Is my only option to use a dremel tool to grind the groove a little bigger so I can get a larger screw driver in it?

For the forend flange issue, I am out of ideas as to how to pry it open to fit back in the grooves. The grooves are quite a bit wider than the flange and the flange is extremely strong. Anyone have a way they have done this before?

The biggest thing that stinks about all of this is that our blackpowder season opens on Saturday! Guess that's what I get for not taking care of my equipment.
 
To open the flange try to borrow a set of reverse action pliers, like snap ring or ring opening pliers.
 
So I got the firing pin issue fixed for now.
I put some kroil on the firing pin and bushing area and let it soak overnight. It was still a little stiff this afternoon but I sprayed some PB Blaster on it and kept working it back and forth and it eventually freed up. Firing pin works like it should now. The new firing pin and bushing kit came in today but I am going to wait until after the season to put it in.
As far as getting the original bushing out ,The only thing I can think of is grinding a deeper groove in the bushing in order to get a good grip with a flat head screw driver to get the bushing out. (The groove on the earlier model breech plugs are extremely shallow!!) The one I received in mail today has a groove twice the size.
Domost people think this is a good idea or the best way to solve this problem? Or is there a better way?

So the only thing keeping me from hunting Saturday is the forend flange issue! My exact thoughts were to use a set of split ring pliers. They would work perfectly! I haven't tried many different sets yet but the ones that seem beefey enough to spread the flange apart are too big to fit inside the flange. And the ones that do fit inside the flange are not strong enough to spread it apart.

Thanks for responding. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Champher the opening on one end of the clip enough to start into the groove, holding pressure on the clip drive on with a dead blow hammer, striking from the end. Just an idea.

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