First time poster with some questions

[BlueRidgeMountainsVa]

Hello....First time poster here! I am new to muzzleloading and was looking for some sage advise. I just ordered a CVA Accura V2 and I also have coming a Nikon Prostaff P3 scope. I need some help on my loadout. I'm looking for recommendations for bullets, primer, also I will be going with pellets to begin with so thoughts on that. I know its a lot of trial and error but wanted to start in the right direction. I will be hunting white tail at probably a max of 200 yards if that helps. Also any tips for that particular rifle (i.e. cleaning etc). I appreciate any and all input. Its a new experience from my Remington .30-06

 

[Dave951]

While I don't play with inlines, in my experience, pellets aren't as accurate as loose powder. Work up your accuracy load with loose powder and then compare to pellets. One other thing, you don't need gobs of powder. A reasonable load that is very accurate is far preferable to a Warp9 Shazamalama killer that can't hit a barn from inside the horse stall.

 

[HC]

Read the “ Stickies” at the top of this section. Oh welcome to the group. Good luck.

 

[BlueRidgeMountainsVa]

Will do thanks!

 

[michiganmuzzy]

I have an Accura V2 and it will shoot most of the bullets you are likely to find. Since you want to start with pellets, just start with 2 - 50grain t7s and any 250 grain saboted bullet like a Hornady or TC. Get used to the loading, shooting, cleaning. Put witness marks on your ramrod and stay focused on what yer doin. Then when yer ready to try some new loads we all have suggestions and advice.
I hope you're getting a nitride Accura, that's the way to go imo. I also have Nikon scopes. Best midrange scopes imo. Welcome and good luck and have a great time!

 

[ShawnT]

IF you plan to stick with Pellets, I would recommend you use the Hornady XTP bullet as an inexpensive bullet that is good for deer too. My nephew uses the 45cal 300gn XTP, Harvester Crushrib sabot with 2 T7 pellets in his older CVA Wolf. The load shoots well for him and he has no trouble taking down a deer out to 175yds. I personally would recommend starting right off with Loose powder over the Pellets. Lots of guys think they are "Easier" than shooting loose Powder but I never found that true and I have shot both. With Loose you just need a bottle funnel and a Volumetric Powder measure. You can pre-load Tubes/vials with the powder and it pours just as easy as dumping 2 pellets, plus you can really tailor the load to the rifle and bullet/sabot combo. It is also much less expensive to buy your Bullets and Sabots separately in bulk instead of the pre-packed stuff. Pellets are more expensive than loose powder too.

 

[GM54-120]

Shooting at 100 yards is vastly different than a 200 yard capable load. Velocity drops a ton and the bullet may not perform as designed. While it might retain enough energy it simply wont expand as intended.

Forget pellets, use loose powder. Hodgdon has never recommended over 2 of the original pellets and a 2 pellet load is a dog in speed. A 3 pellet load is very expensive to shoot and creates very high peak pressures.

Get a Blackhorn209 breach plug. Lehigh now offers one that looks good.

 

[BlueRidgeMountainsVa]

Thank you all for the info!

 

[NatureNick]

Having only about a dozen years of infrequent muzzleloading activity, and only 5 ML rifles having graced my bench in that time, I am certainly a newcomer as well (compared to the guys with the 4-digit message counts on this site). I don't have enough experience to give relevant advice related to accuracy or performance, so the only knowledge I'll rush to share with another newcomer to frontstuffers relates to Safety:

Put a permanent witness mark on your ramrod indicating its insertion depth in an empty breech/barrel so you know with 100% certainty whether you're loaded or not, regardless of how dark it is or how tired you are, or whatever other environmental distractions may be at play at your range or deer blind. Do this with your field rod and range rod alike, if you have both. When you finally get your best load figured out, please remember to add another witness mark for that load to your ramrod (as well as one for an empty breech). A muzzleloader with an unseated load is a pipe bomb: witness marks help ensure your bullet/ball is fully seated every time.

I use a paint marker or a wrap of electrical tape until I'm settled on a load, then I scratch it in by turning my ramrod against a file's edge and then fill that groove with white paint. This creates an indelible mark which I can see and feel. However you do it, just make absolutely certain that your projectile is fully seated before inserting a primer for each and every shot, forever and ever, Amen.

Also, the "Jedi Master" who got me started taught me that the last thing I should see and touch before settling behind the scope/sights - each and every shot - is my ramrod, wherever I've stowed or rested it after loading, so I know for certain that it's not still inside of my barrel and I won't send it downrange when I shoot. Even if my rifle could handle it, I've done the equation for free recoil energy with the mass of my brass range rod added to that of the projectile/propellant ejecta; the rough result of my calculation was "It won't feel very good."

 

[MSalyards]

That is my rifle of choice for hunting now. Are you allowed to use sabots where you live? I haven't seen that question asked yet. My load of choice is 77 weighed grains of Blackhorn, a Black crushrib sabot, and a 300 gr Deep Curl Speer bullet, and a Win 209 shotgun primer.

 

[edmehlig]

Put a permanent witness mark on your ramrod indicating its insertion depth in an empty breech/barrel so you know with 100% certainty whether you're loaded or not, regardless of how dark it is or how tired you are, or whatever other environmental distractions may be at play at your range or deer blind. Do this with your field rod and range rod alike, if you have both. When you finally get your best load figured out, please remember to add another witness mark for that load to your ramrod (as well as one for an empty breech). A muzzleloader with an unseated load is a pipe bomb: witness marks help ensure your bullet/ball is fully seated every time.

I use a paint marker or a wrap of electrical tape until I'm settled on a load, then I scratch it in by turning my ramrod against a file's edge and then fill that groove with white paint. This creates an indelible mark which I can see and feel. However you do it, just make absolutely certain that your projectile is fully seated before inserting a primer for each and every shot, forever and ever, Amen."

Good Advice!! A friend of my sons asked me to shoot his Encore for him one year as he did not have time to go to the range. I took it to the range and put a load in that he told me he used. For some reason, the ramrod would not go down all the way down? I took the rifle home and pulled the load out only to find two other loads in the rifle. Apparently, he never took the bullets out after hunting each year. Luckily for him, he didn't see a deer for two years and he didn't have time to resight his rifle for two years. Lucky for me I knew better not to pull the trigger as I probably would not be typing this right now. Witness marks on your ramrods are important once you establish your load for your rifle. Oh and did I chew that kid out!!

 

[Doccbst1]

While I'm still a novice I've picked up a few things. Use a heavy bullet for longer ranges. 300gr minimum. Weigh/measure charges until you get the sweet spot for your rifle 90-120 max measured. 777 or Blackhorn 209 for inlines.Blackhorn makes cleaning easier and no swab between shots. Focus on 100 yds, then work up to longer distances. Witness mark is critical and always know where you ramrod is as suggested.
Enjoy and safety first.

 

[mnoland30]

I've used Hornady 350 gr. FPBs on deer and elk. I don't have a CVA, but they shoot very well in my gun with 115 gr. of 777. I like heavier bullets for 200 yard shots, and I like my deer to drop when I shoot them.