Hoping to learn more about my new to me LK-93

[cwbyupnh]

Okay. Brand new member here. I recently picked up a brand new CVA Wolf for my 13 year old son to use this coming deer season here in NH. Went out to sight it in, and he loved it. However, my trusty ole’ CVA Blazer (made in ‘85) fired 2 rounds and then would not ignite……again. This happened last season as well. I then tried to remove the bullet and managed to strip the threads on the remover! I decided I’ve had enough of this thing, and needed another muzzleloader for myself, on a very tight budget.

I shopped around a bit and came across this Knight muzzleloader with sort of a plastic, green camo stock. The butt is recessed and has Knight molded in it. The gun feels great, and is in really good shape. The nipple separates from the breech plug, and a #11 fits it perfectly. The hammer appears to have a small point in it. I took it apart and cleaned it All up, and she looks ready to go!

I am hoping someone here can tell me a bit more about this rifle? Is there any issues I should watch for? Or is this just a good old fashioned solid gun. Any way to tell how old it is? Serial number is 135XXX. Are there any upgrades I should consider? I looked into the 209 upgrade, but I am going to shy away from that as long as it works reliably with the #11s. Oh, I picked it up for $125 about 2 days ago. Not sure if that was a deal or not, but it fit my budget!

I plan to shoot Powerbelt 300 grain Aerolite Aerotips, and I am using Pyrodex Select RS powder. Any suggestions on the load amount? I use 100 grains in my sons Wolf with the same bullets. We sight in at 50 yards. We hunt the woods of NH, and would rarely see a shot of more than 40 yds. I have seen reference that the LK may like a tad less, say around 85?

Thank you in advance to anyone who can fill in some of the blanks about this gun. It really does feel nice in the hands. Though the fore stock is a bit smaller then I’m used to. And I’m excited to get out and try it out!

 

[cwbyupnh]

Oh, and I have seen a lot of references to Green Mountain Barrels and how good they are on these guns, but mine does not have the GMB logo anywhere. Does that mean it’s a different barrel, and is it any less of a barrel? Thanks again.

 

[HC]

There’s a lot of information on the lk93 here in the forums. Just use the “search “ at the top of the home screen. Good luck.

 

[sabotloader]

cwbyupnh' Follow this link to older Knight rifle manual

http://images.ebsco.com/pob/krwarranty/cms/inline_6_29_11.pdf
This is the gun manual.

 

[cwbyupnh]

Thank you. I do have one concern. I have searched extensively but can’t seem to find a clear answer. The front of my hammer has a bit of a point as seen in the pics. Does this mean it’s already been converted to 209? The #11 fit right on the nipple but I want to make sure I use the right stuff. Is it possible I have a 209 hammer with a #11 nipple on this gun?

 

[HC]

You have a newer universal bolt , it can be used for either #11 caps or 209 primers. Most prefer the flat faced bolt for #11 caps, they seem to be easier on the nipples.

 

[sabotloader]

I kinda disagree I think it is tool marks from machining. Also the front end of the hammer does not match the 209 hammer + plus I do not think there is not enough lift to the cone.

This picture might show the differences in the the two hammer assemblies.

I think they show a distinct difference in the size of the cone. + the universal hammer body is the same diameter from the rear to the front.

If I could see a better pic of the hammer face - I might have to change my mind and HC could be correct.

 

[HC]

Your right as usual. Edit : maybe.

 

[ShawnT]

Check the tip of that center part of the plunger/hammer. Is it really pointy. IF it is raised to a point then it is a universal but if the raised area is Flat then it was probably milled off to do less damage to the #11 nipple. If it is pointy then you would need to change out the plug to one of r209 primers if you really anted to use them. The #11 cap works just fine in that rifle. Get some CCI #11 mag or RWS`1075 and don't look back. I had one that sort of looked like yours that was pointed and it destroyed nipples, then I milled it flat, no more nipple damage.

Pointy, Then pic after milling.

 

[cwbyupnh]

Ve

I kinda disagree I think it is tool marks from machining. Also the front end of the hammer does not match the 209 hammer + plus I do not think there is not enough lift to the cone.

This picture might show the differences in the the two hammer assemblies.

I think they show a distinct difference in the size of the cone. + the universal hammer body is the same diameter from the rear to the front.

If I could see a better pic of the hammer face - I might have to change my mind and HC could be correct.

Definitely a pointy cone in the center of the face. Here are a few more pics showing the cone, and the whole plunger assembly. So if I’m understanding this correctly, I can use this hammer with the #11s, but over time it will likely damage the nipple. Is this correct? I don’t really have the means to machine that surface flat, and deer season is in a week and a half.

 

[cwbyupnh]

Check the tip of that center part of the plunger/hammer. Is it really pointy. IF it is raised to a point then it is a universal but if the raised area is Flat then it was probably milled off to do less damage to the #11 nipple. If it is pointy then you would need to change out the plug to one of r209 primers if you really anted to use them. The #11 cap works just fine in that rifle. Get some CCI #11 mag or RWS`1075 and don't look back. I had one that sort of looked like yours that was pointed and it destroyed nipples, then I milled it flat, no more nipple damage.

Pointy, Then pic after milling.

ShawnT, mine looks a lot like your first pic. The main hammer shaft has a bit of a tapered down section near the end. But my point seems even bigger than the one in your pic. (See my post above with closer pics). I would like to stick with the #11 setup so I am hopeful that the consensus is that this hammer will work with #11. I just may need to replace the nipple in the future.

 

[HC]

I would use it as is, then after season, look into getting a #11 bolt.

 

[SuperKirby]

I have about the same gun. Mine is stainless and the stock is the same shape but different camo pattern. It was a good shooter but I was not well educated in cleaning. I was told "with this new APP powder you don't even have to clean." So I didn't and I'm pretty sure the barrel is shot. I've learned a lot since then. I think the bolt assembly and everything else is still good though. Let me know if you need a #11 bolt or something. I was saving it for parts but I don't see using them any time soon.

 

[WV Hunter]

Yes, you can use it as is... but a fully flat face would be better for #11 and longevity of your nipple. SuperKirby might have what you need.
They are great little guns, light and maneuverable. Most knight plungers shoot very well with 90-100gr of power, and 240-260gr bullets. Do not use BH209 in this rifle, stick to the other subs (pyrodex, T7, etc..)

Good luck! Oh, and I'd recommend keeping your bolt safety OFF the majority of the time. I only put my bolt safety on when pulling my gun up into a stand, etc. Nothing worse than pulling the trigger and forgetting you have that on

 

[ShawnT]

Yea its hard on the nipple and will sort of mushroom it, but it will work and still fire for several shots. As that point repeatedly strikes the nipple it will mushroom or flare it out. You can dress up the end of the nipple with a file in the mean time when it gets bad enough you cant get a cap on it but go ahead and use it unless you find one. I used an end mill chucked up in my bench top drill press to mill mine off enough so it was flat where the nipple is. Don't need to take off too much, just enough so its flat where the nipple strikes.

 

[sabotloader]

cwbyupnh, I stand corrected - you new pics shows that it is a 209 hammer.

 

[cwbyupnh]

Thanks for the help everyone. Seems like I’ll be happy with this purchase. Can I ask a couple more questions?

first, I had decided to stay away from the 209 upgrade because I had read some posts about blow back with plunger style guns. But, I may have over thought it. My question is this. Is it okay to update the play and hammer to the 209 primers as long as I keep using the same Pyrodex powder? Is the blowback issue only when trying to use the BH209? And is there a significant advantage to the 209 primers? I know my old Blazer used to have a short delay after pulling the hammer before firing. Where my sons Wolf seems to react much faster after the trigger pull.

Lastly, anyone gave any thoughts on the age of this gun???

Thanks again all.

 

[WV Hunter]

I've owned a bunch of plunger Knights over the years, and still have 3 MK-85's. My personal opinion, the 209 ignition has nothing on the #11. I've tried both, and all mine wear #11's now. I do use RWS caps, which seem to be harder and harder to find. CCI mag work well also. The blowback will be the same, plunger rifles are not the cleanest but they shoot excellent. Easiest fix for your rifle is to file down the cone, and stay with #11. That would be my personal choice, but its your decision.

Oh, and based on that camo... its probably a mid to late 90's model rifle would be my ballpark guess. The LK-93 came out in 93.... not sure when they quit making that model and went to the Wolverine. Maybe someone else does.

 

[HC]

I use CCI #11 M caps with Pyrodex, instant ignition.
1999 was the last year of the LK93 designation, I think?

 

[cwbyupnh]

I have about the same gun. Mine is stainless and the stock is the same shape but different camo pattern. It was a good shooter but I was not well educated in cleaning. I was told "with this new APP powder you don't even have to clean." So I didn't and I'm pretty sure the barrel is shot. I've learned a lot since then. I think the bolt assembly and everything else is still good though. Let me know if you need a #11 bolt or something. I was saving it for parts but I don't see using them any time soon.

Thank you. I am hoping to test it out after work today. I’ll send you a message if I could use some parts. The more I’ve learned, it seems like this should be a simple, and reliable straight shooter. I think I may have over paid by a few dollars, but not much and if it ends up being reliable and accurate, that’s all I need. Nothing fancy. I just want it to work when I pull the trigger.