No Problem that what this site is all about. I'll try to go over your questions one at a time.
Im leaning towards the Knight line cause the share the same design, and im sure once comfortable ill expand and try to experiment with different loads. these both use the full plastic jacket 209 primer system.
I completely understand that line of thinking and not a thing wrong with that at all. I love knights myself as you can see from my signature line
But just so im clear use loose triple 7 or pyrodex and avoid the pellets for now.
While pellets are ok there are several downsides to them. They don't come in a sealed container, so they can draw moisture eventually if not used up or stored in Ziploc bags with desiccant packs or even vacuum packed if you don't shoot them up. You are locked in to a charge weight in increments of 30 or 50 grains per pellet, and they are more expensive than Loose Powder. Loose powder has more advantages, Comes in a sealed container that is re-sealed when the lid is screwed back on so you can store it for longer periods, and you can increase or decrease charge weights in any size you want, and it is easier to ignite than pellets. Many newbies think Pellets are Easier to use but Loose is really not hard work with. Most of us recommend it right off.
what do you recommend to use once I unbox them for the first time to clean them? windex? or use windex only between shots followed by a dry patch.
Right out of the box I would clean it with any good gun solvent you have such as Hoppies, Butches etc. since it will strip that Preservative coating off. Some will just use real hot to boiling water with soap (Such as dawn dishwashing liquid). I also go a round with JB Bore cleaner in mine, but it is not always needed. Just give it a real good scrubbing and then follow that with a good gun oil that you might already have.
is there different size patches? what size should I use for the 50 cal? the 12g?
What ever size you can use on the 12g would work for the 50 caliber rifle. I don't have a 12g but for 50 and 54 caliber rifles I like 2" or 2 1/2" round flannel No need for having 2 different patches. I would bet a 2 1/2" will work for both.
is the breech plug removed only after done shooting and cleaning for storage?
You only need to remove the Breech plug when you are finished shooting for the day or after you are done hunting.
best to use breech grease? seen somewhere you can use teflon tape.
I have went totally to Teflon tape, it is a lot cleaner to use. I use the plain old White tape as it is the easiest to find. Wrap the plug like you would a Pipe fitting but start at the end that goes in the action first and let it wrap over the flat end of the plug to help seal it at the lands and groves. After wrapping it I then gently run my finger nail in the threads pressing it down in them then insert it and seat the plug all the way in. Get yourself a good 3/4" round nylon brush and when you remove the plug use it to remove the scraps of tape and also to clean the threads and action. Grease is fine too, Just messier
the bullet rounds is where im most unclear, you mentioned a few and i will start there. but a 50 cal inline shoots a 50 cal sabot round right? Im assuming when you stated (45.2) you were referring to the actual lead round and the sabot makes up the rest to be 50,right?
For a 50 caliber rifle you have lots of options in bullets to shoot, Just have to match the right sabot for the bullet and caliber. Such as Black sabots (often marked 45x50) are used for a .451 - .452 diameter bullet (45 caliber) use bullets that are made for the 45 long colt or 454 Casull not bullets of that size designed for 45acp since they are too fragile, you can also use Green Sabots (44x50) with bullets in the .429- .430 diameter designed for the 44mag. Then there is a sabot that will allow the use of .40 caliber bullets (40x50), and also one designed for a .458 diameter bullet. The more common option used is the Black sabots and 45 caliber bullets. You can get the Pre-Packed combos too but buying in bulk is just cheaper.
Here is a link to a good write up on sabot/bullet sizes. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9798
what about reloading in the field? is it wise to preload the grain? is that what those tubes i see are for,or those just to hold sabot rounds?
Right on. The use of Plastic Vials, old Film canisters, or Speed loaders is what most of us use. They allow you to pre-charge them at home and carry them to the range ready to go. Get a bottle funnel that screws onto the bottle to pour into your measure. I really like the plastic vials sold in the sticky at the top of the Classifieds, they are inexpensive, seal up good and you can even use them for hunting. The commercial speed loaders work well, just more expensive.
lastly, storage.
powder needs to be air tight? and rifles lubed as a standard firearm?
Yes, moisture is a bad thing for BlackPowder or subs (Substitutes). If powder gets wet, then it don't ignite well or at all, plus when the rifle is fired any moisture that gets to the fouling can start the corrosion process if left uncleaned and lubed.
but i need to swab barrel with windex to remove "storage" oil from the barrel prior to shooting,right?
Correct. You can use a patch that is very lightly dampened with solvent, Alcohol or Windex (Some like to mix the Windex with Alcohol too). Just need one damp patch followed by one dry. Next take a dry patch and run it down with the ramrod till it touches the breech plug and leave it there. Now, point the rifle in a safe direction, and Fire off a Primer, You will see it push the rod up a few inches. Push the patch back down then remove the rod and look at the end of the patch, it should be burned. I do that 3 or 4 times, running the patch down and up just spreads the primer fouling around. The patch on the rod gives you a little pressure and popping the caps is to remove any oil in the Breech plug and make sure it is clear and dry. Oil can contaminate the charge and cause a miss-fire or fail to fire. This will also foul the bore a bit and can help with the first shot being in the same spot as the next. One more Tip to do when you first load up, once you drop the charge press that bullet/sabot down till it stops and then press a but more to really seat the charge. Now before removing the ramrod, wrap a piece of tape around the rod at the muzzle. This is what is called a witness mark and is a good visual indicator that you have seated the bullet all they way down and to the same point each time you load up. Once you determine the load you plan to hut with remove the tape and permanently scribe the rod with a knife. Consistency is Accuracy in the muzzleloader world.
sorry for the elementary questions, i just want to make sure im doing it right from the start and have optimal results,without degrading the life of my rifles.
No problem. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask! :wink: There is a lot of guys on this forum with Tons of Knowledge that are more than willing to help. The manual that will be with your rifle/shotgun is also a great place to start.
ive seen neglected bores before on used rifles and until now it has scared me away from pursuing muzzleloading in general.
Yup, there are a lot of those around. It is usually from a guy that did not clean and lube when he put the rifle away. Every now and then we even hear about one that had a charge left in it! :shock: When buying used, you have to know what too look for when buying from a shop or on a site like Gunbroker, or an individual. You can find good deals or real bummers too. The classified here is also a good place to get a good used rifle from guys that know how to take care of them. Some can be saved, some not.
thanks again for the heads up, look forward to hearing back from you.
Your Welcome. And again welcome to a great sport. One thing you will find out is that this is a very addicting sport! 8) 
