Nitride Barrel -- Blackhorn Fouling

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Back when Blackhorn first became available, one fella i know, hunted all season with a fouled barrel. The barrel of the rifle rusted. Ever since, he only hunts with a clean barrel, but does do so with the same load, day after day. It was a myth that Blackhorn is not corrosive; it turns out the fouling is indeed corrosive.

Today there is a 45 caliber fast twist hunting rifle with a nitride barrel calling.

Seems it is possible, and probable, if burning Blackhorn, the nitride barrel can safely be fouled, and carried all of hunting season without fear of rust??
 
That gun is calling me also, I was wondering the same thing, I hunt on a clean barrel and use 777 so I may just go stainless. man that black horn is getting expensive
 
In reply to the topic , why take the chance? Lockeze and 3 fired primers Keeps the first shot in the group.
 
Back when Blackhorn first became available, one fella i know, hunted all season with a fouled barrel. The barrel of the rifle rusted. Ever since, he only hunts with a clean barrel, but does do so with the same load, day after day. It was a myth that Blackhorn is not corrosive; it turns out the fouling is indeed corrosive.

Today there is a 45 caliber fast twist hunting rifle with a nitride barrel calling.

Seems it is possible, and probable, if burning Blackhorn, the nitride barrel can safely be fouled, and carried all of hunting season without fear of rust??
I have a nitride accura and use BH, but ive never hunted with a fouled barrel. It shoots first shot bullseyes for me on a clean barrel. And its SO easy to clean. I have Hankins DI plug and I converted the blackhorn plug to take a ventliner (followed a thread here) and they shoot so close iinside 100. The BH plug is way more hunter friendly. But I wouldn't worry if i couldn't clean it for a week or so. Unless its raining, maybe.
 
Herschel, to answer your question.........my reason for being interested in the rifle, is for shooting without sabot. Bullets would be sized to load on a fouled barrel, for that second shot, should it be necessary. Hence, it seems the easy way is to begin with a fouled barrel. Currently only at the pondering stage.
 
Shoot a fouler
Run a dry patch once
Use bullets sized a tiny bit loose and knurl them up 1-2 thousands. Only takes a couple seconds per bullet.
Never had one get stuck yet and they often shoot great.
 
Re: RE: Lock Eze for "Fouling"

I start with a barrel that has been dry patched to remove any oil, then fire 3 primers, then swab the barrel with a slightly dampened lockeze patch. Either the spray, or out of the bottle works equally well. This is only used on the first shot.

Sent from my ME301T using Tapatalk
 
If nitride rusts also , what is the advantage of it over stainless, I personally like the look of plain stainless.
 
I've found that the high quality stainless that Knight uses is very resistant to rusting, compared to other manufacturers stainless and certainly to all blued. Never owned anything with Nitride.

Assuming its a UL with the Nitride coating, given what its supposed to do/be, I'd imagine that you would be pretty safe. However, there's only one way to find out.

Personally I don't leave the fouling in very long . If I shoot, I typically clean it that night. I have however, when hunting again the next day...just swabbed the fouling out of the barrel vs a full clean. Never had an issue there.
 
I have a Nitride CVA Accura V2. I shoot a fouling round a few days before the season starts the first weekend in November. I then reload. I don't clean anything again (except for maybe one dry swab) until our general firearms season ends in early January, as I have primarily used the muzzleloader during general firearms season. I store the rifle in an outdoor safe with a Golden rod, in a non-climate controlled garage. I use BH209. I have never had rust. I hope this helps.
 
You should not have to. What i said would be done before ever going to hunt. I can get off numerous shots sabotless with BH209 but clean bore can be vastly different than fouled when .002 variance is huge for sabotless. So size your bullets for a lightly fouled bore and shoot several times if needed from a fouled bore. You wont run into a hammer down that way.
 
Scott, Am not very interested in having to swab, before reloading, while a wounded deer is doing it's thing

Great point, and I can speak to this. Just yesterday morning, I took a buck out of one of my treestands at about 40 yards. He jumped the creek and went to sleep soon thereafter, about twenty yards from where I hit him. I was out of my stand and dragging him to my ATV pick up point ten minutes later. While walking back to a nearby field to radio my evac, I noticed a doe in the field walking around from what ended up being 68 yards away. Well, as is my practice, I had not reloaded my rifle before coming out of the stand after seeing the buck expire. I don't normally reload after I harvest one, as I don't go hunting until at least the next day.

Anyway, she saw me, but could not tell what I was, so she just stood there snorting. I moved behind a tree, reloaded my rifle with no issue (using a standard bullet starter with a SpinJag, the under barrel ramrod with a SpinJag, and a CVA speedloader as the ramrod handle), stood up, leaned out to the side of the tree and harvested her (at 68 yards).

I have never had to swab in between shots before reloading, I have only swabbed it to get the bulk of the fouling out for my own peace of mind, not necessity. I shoot bullets with sabots, however, and cannot speak to shooting bullets without them.

Not that it matters, but the doe was old, and had almost no teeth bone left.

Image-2089627336.jpg
 
You should not have to. What i said would be done before ever going to hunt. I can get off numerous shots sabotless with BH209 but clean bore can be vastly different than fouled when .002 variance is huge for sabotless. So size your bullets for a lightly fouled bore and shoot several times if needed from a fouled bore. You wont run into a hammer down that way.

Thank you for the information, Scott. Shrinking the bullet 0.002" will be easy enough with the new die.
 
...........Assuming its a UL with the Nitride coating, given what its supposed to do/be, I'd imagine that you would be pretty safe. However, there's only one way to find out.

Personally I don't leave the fouling in very long . If I shoot, I typically clean it that night...........

Yes, i do the same. Hunt with a clean barrel; if shot, clean it that night. The nitride barrel may open a new way; hunting every day all season with a dirty barrel. Weird 'eh? Only one way to find out..........
 
Back when Blackhorn first became available, one fella i know, hunted all season with a fouled barrel. The barrel of the rifle rusted. Ever since, he only hunts with a clean barrel, but does do so with the same load, day after day. It was a myth that Blackhorn is not corrosive; it turns out the fouling is indeed corrosive.

Today there is a 45 caliber fast twist hunting rifle with a nitride barrel calling.

Seems it is possible, and probable, if burning Blackhorn, the nitride barrel can safely be fouled, and carried all of hunting season without fear of rust??

A nitrided barrel wont rust with any powder residue left on it. The beauty of BH209 is the residue does not accumulate to the point you need a hammer to push a bullet down the barrel. I'll get some heat for this, but I have a nitrided .45 cal that I've been shooting for over 4 years and going on 250 + rounds. Never once been cleaned. I have a bore scope and have inspected it a few times. Any powder besides BH209 wouldn't have gone this far, probably not even 10 shots.
 

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