No loctite?

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

alphaburnt

Well-Known Member
*
Joined
Dec 11, 2005
Messages
901
Reaction score
0
While reading the literature that comes with Leupold Rings, it states that when using the Torx screws supplied you just have to use a high quality oil on the threads with no thread locker when mounting. Have any of you found this to be sufficient?
 
Not me,I do put a thin film of oil on the under side of the base to inhibit rust on the receiver. I use blue Loctite on the base screws and purple on the ring screws on all my guns.
 
I use the blue loctite also when mounting bases. Also use it on the screws when tightening the ring. I thought I'd pass on what I saw a gun smith do about 35 years ago. I had just bought a scope at his gun shop and he mounted it right there while I waited. He tightened the screws on the bases as hard as he could. Then he put a screw driver into the slots, and wacked the end of the driver. Then he turn the screw in further. Did that a couple of time. Those bases are still on the rifle and they haven't moved.
 
I move scopes around a lot doing research for article fodder, and I don't use loctite. I rely on mechanical interference fit. I also learned the "old gunsmith trick" above, I think it is in Brownells' Gunsmith Kinks.

jim
 
While I usually use the "green" loctite, (green is the same as the blue but labelled specifically for gun use), the big difference to consider here is the fact that the original post mentioned torx heads....always remember that unlike standard flat head screws, most torx head screws will take far more torque the actual screw shafts can hold before the torx head will strip.

Very simply this means that if you choose not to use loctite don't try to overcompensate by cranking down on the torx screws.

(I believe the recommended torque for most Leuopold ring screws is 12-16 in/lbs, in comparison many torx heads screws will tighten closer to 30+ in/lbs before the head strips.)

JC
 
MQ32shooter said:
So Leupold is a little overconfident in their Torx screws?

No...I am only saying don't assume that because Leupold suggestes that you don't need loctite that you should apply extra pressure when tightening the rings to make up for it. With Torx head screws it is very easy to apply too much pressure ...
 
Ok, Everyone seems to use Loctite anyhow- it just unnerves me because I followed the directions and will be paranoid. Just shot today approx 20 times and checked just to be sure, so far so good- I pray they wont move on me.
 
MQ32shooter, Don't feel lonesome I didn't use Loctite either. I just torqued mine down and have had no problems to date.
 
In the 15+ years I have ben installing scopes on my rifles as well ones that belong to other people, I have ALWAYS used blue Locktite on (including torxs screws) the base screws, none on the rings and have never experienced a down side from doing so.

Has anyone found a problem from using blue Locktite on on their scope base screws?
 
MQ32, I have never had a set of rings come loose on me, although I can not see were using locktite on them could hurt anything.
 
Ok, I have yet to take my Knight to the range and sight it in. Should I go ahead and take the scope back off and put some blue Loctite on the mounting screws? Thanks
 
I would use locktite, locktite allows you to remove screws as they will not rust/corrode. Purple is for screws up to 1/8 inch,blue is for larger screws.
Redclub
 
ive been using small amounts of blue loctite in the green tube (says "guntite" on the tube) on my base screws, most (actually all, now) of which are warne torx screws. ive swapped bases on several of my rifles, after ordering bases that didnt suit my taste (weavers were too aluminum, then weaver grand slams were too tall. now i just switched everything to warnes). did a lot of scope swapping last summer and found that the blue loctite does not make it particularly hard to remove the screws. anyway, with the torx screws i'm able to tighten them down really good, and i really dont think loctite is necessary (especially w/ the non-magnum loads i typically shoot). however, i put it on there anyway just as a sort of insurance. maybe its just a placebo in this case, but i dont think it hurts, either
 
I never used loctite until a few years ago. My original inline had a 3 - 9 on it and worked fine. On the last trip it took it, before I sold it, had a small 3 x 3 buck come out at 90 yds walking broad side. Put the cross hairs on him and squeezed. Couldn't believe I missed. I sold it that winter when I bought my new savage. The buyer didnt want the scope so I took it off. Too my surprise the screws for the rings were loose and that explains the miss.

P.S. It's a good thing I missed. The following monday I went out on the first day of CF season and took a 180 white tail. Wouldn't have been there is I'd a hit that 3 x 3 :wink:
 
I have always used blue loctite for bases screws. Reason being insurance, while it may never be an issue it is not something you can easily check like the ring screws. I have never had an issue removing a blue loctited screw from a base so I see no downside to the insurance factor. I don't use loctite of the rings as they can easily be checked on demand for tightness. It is part of my routine to check the ring screws. You want the rings to be snug on the scope but do not over tighten! A trick i learned from a gunsmith is to place a white label on the underside of the rings this helps eliminate marring, takes up imperfections and makes it almost impossible for the scope to slip. I just cut a label to slightly undersize of the ring and stick it to the underside of each ring. Basically like the sleeve Burris and some others use in their rings.

I also lap my rings but that is a whole other topic. :roll:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top