Point of impact changes- clean vs fouled barrel

[damgar10]

What are some pointers for reducing poi differences getting from a clean barrel to a fouled barrel. I usually pop two 209 primers before the first shot and regularly see 2"-3" difference between shot one and two at 100yds. I'm looking to shrink it down for hunting situations.
Shooting a
TC Pro Hunter
50 cal SS barrel
BH209- 100gr
Barnes MZ Expanders

Thanks in advance

 

[bestill]

I personally set my scope zero for that first cold clean bore shoot then account for poi change for followup shot. Which shouldn't be needed.

 

[Lee 9]

What works for me is too fire 3 209 swab out the barrel fire 3 more then load. I believe it is the residue of oil in the barrel which causes the problem and I use Birchwood Casey synthetic gun oil or Barricade as they seem to reduce the problem some it is best to swab with alcohol before starting the procedure.

 

[ENCORE50A]

Same rifle, except 107grs volume and a Barnes 250gr TMZ.

Makes for a serious problem, IF, there's the possibility of harvesting more than one animal at longer ranges.
There's all kinds of "tales" of what will work and what won't. I've tried them all.

 

[GM54-120]

What works for me is too fire 3 209 swab out the barrel fire 3 more then load. I believe it is the residue of oil in the barrel which causes the problem and I use Birchwood Casey synthetic gun oil or Barricade as they seem to reduce the problem some it is best to swab with alcohol before starting the procedure.

I do close to the same thing. I use 90% rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner on a patch to degrease the bore. Brake clean works best but its a good idea to be careful not to get any on plastics or stocks. Then i pop 3 primers and run a dry patch once. I do all this the night before the hunt.

This method has worked well on shots out to about 150 yards when using a pretty snug fitting sabot.

 

[gmstack]

Great info thanks a lot guys. all very good ideas. guy

 

[emrah]

What works for me is too fire 3 209 swab out the barrel fire 3 more then load. I believe it is the residue of oil in the barrel which causes the problem and I use Birchwood Casey synthetic gun oil or Barricade as they seem to reduce the problem some it is best to swab with alcohol before starting the procedure.

I do close to the same thing. I use 90% rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner on a patch to degrease the bore. Brake clean works best but its a good idea to be careful not to get any on plastics or stocks. Then i pop 3 primers and run a dry patch once. I do all this the night before the hunt.

This method has worked well on shots out to about 150 yards when using a pretty snug fitting sabot.

This works for me.

Emrah


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WV Hunter]

I know at least one member here had really good luck using lock-ease to "foul" the barrel. Made the flyers non existent.

 

[LarryBud]

I know at least one member here had really good luck using lock-ease to "foul" the barrel. Made the flyers non existent.

That would be me. Give it a try, it works.

 

[Bill]

+1 The lock lubricant really helped with a MK85.

 

[twild]

I might have missed it. What is Lock Ease ?

 

[ShawnT]

Graphite lube for locks.

https://www.amazon.com/AGS-LE5-Lock-Ease/dp/B000CIJUGA

 

[Smyrnagc]

Read this topic:

viewtopic.php?t=26967

 

[LarryBud]

Hello All,

Let me chime in on Lock Ease. I have a problem with Flyers. It's probably my storage technique. I clean them well and use BCs Barricade. It keeps the safe at home but causes Flyers.

The best solution is to fire a few rounds and hunt dirty. However, I live in a suburban area and it's not always possible to touch off a few between storage and the hunt. As I searched for a solution I read somewhere Bench Rest Shooters used Lock Ease. I tried it and it worked. I bought the $3 bottle, cleaned the storage oil out of my barrel and applied a coat just like you'd apply a layer of oil. You can feel the resistance loading and I believe it mimics a fouled barrel.

While I won't promise it will work for everyone, it works for me. Your investment to give it a try is $3 and a trip to the range ( and who doesn't like a trip to the range? ). Its available at hardware and auto stores.

Good Shooting to All!!



https://www.amazon.com/American-Grease- ... RH27C78FNB

 

[jjc155]

With the graphite lube are you loading up first and then swabbing the barrel with the graphite or swabbing the barrel all the way to the breach and then loading? If the second way any issue with the lube/powder causing issues with ignition etc?

J-

 

[LarryBud]

With the graphite lube are you loading up first and then swabbing the barrel with the graphite or swabbing the barrel all the way to the breach and then loading? If the second way any issue with the lube/powder causing issues with ignition etc?

J-

Good Question. I clean and swab well prior to loading. I believe it dries quickly but I give it plenty of time. ( before I drive to range for example ).

I have not, nor would I anticipate any ignition issues. It's really just a very light coating on the bore which keeps the sabot from spinning out on a clean, oiled barrel.

When we go back to the origin of Flyer problem, it has to be that the sabot spins differently on a clean barrel than the a more " Grippy " dirty barrel.

Your merely trying to match the dirty barrel feel for the sabot.

 

[Smyrnagc]

With the graphite lube are you loading up first and then swabbing the barrel with the graphite or swabbing the barrel all the way to the breach and then loading? If the second way any issue with the lube/powder causing issues with ignition etc?

J-

Good Question. I clean and swab well prior to loading. I believe it dries quickly but I give it plenty of time. ( before I drive to range for example ).

I have not, nor would I anticipate any ignition issues. It's really just a very light coating on the bore which keeps the sabot from spinning out on a clean, oiled barrel.

When we go back to the origin of Flyer problem, it has to be that the sabot spins differently on a clean barrel than the a more " Grippy " dirty barrel.

Your merely trying to match the dirty barrel feel for the sabot.

Larry:

After swabbing with the graphite do you fire a cap to make sure that the breech plug is clean?

 

[damgar10]

I tried the Lock Ease liquid graphite this morning and was pleased with the results. The first four shot group @ 100yards was about 2" and clustered together. I ran a partially damp patch once down the barrel, followed by a dry patch, loaded, and let it set over night. I'll experiment over the next few months. As of now, it's a part of my routine.

 

[jjc155]

With the graphite lube are you loading up first and then swabbing the barrel with the graphite or swabbing the barrel all the way to the breach and then loading? If the second way any issue with the lube/powder causing issues with ignition etc?

J-

Good Question. I clean and swab well prior to loading. I believe it dries quickly but I give it plenty of time. ( before I drive to range for example ).

I have not, nor would I anticipate any ignition issues. It's really just a very light coating on the bore which keeps the sabot from spinning out on a clean, oiled barrel.

When we go back to the origin of Flyer problem, it has to be that the sabot spins differently on a clean barrel than the a more " Grippy " dirty barrel.

Your merely trying to match the dirty barrel feel for the sabot.

Cool thanks

J-

 

[gmstack]

Great tip. I will try it next range session. guy