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CVAKodiak50

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Hello, just wondering what a safe and accurate powder recommendation for my new ML would be. It is a CVA Kodiak Mag Pro .50
I was thinking of using 295g powerbelt hollow point, I’ve read a lot of different opinions on powder and primer combos
BH209 vs pyro vs 777
Is BH really worth the extra money?
Thoughts? Thank you
 
At $40 per 10 oz container Blackhorn 209 was a no brainer. At $37 for an 8 oz. from Walmart still not a bad deal but not as good as before. For around $50 per 8 ounces it started to get expensive. At $70 per 8 ounces they can keep it. I'll swab every shot if I have to before I pay quadruple the price of the next best powder.
 
BH-209 powder is over priced, never will i pay over $25-$30 for an half lb. I would pick up some good black powder or Trip 7 if the blk was not available. The load you could start at 65 gr n ease on up til it was not accurate or the load reached max, or recoil got to bad. If you jump for the BH-209 then 80 gr volume it a good area to start
 
I have a Kodiak in .45 caliber and it's been set up to shoot BH209, but using an identical charge of T7 fffg delivers identical results as far as killing and accuracy goes. Bullet-wise, I'd suggest you try sabots and bullets bought in bulk over the Powerbelts, but that's entirely up to you. With T7 fffg I'd start with 90 grains by volume and work upward 5 grains at a time until you find your sweet spot.

That Kodiak is a nice gun.
 
I have a Kodiak in .45 caliber and it's been set up to shoot BH209, but using an identical charge of T7 fffg delivers identical results as far as killing and accuracy goes. Bullet-wise, I'd suggest you try sabots and bullets bought in bulk over the Powerbelts, but that's entirely up to you. With T7 fffg I'd start with 90 grains by volume and work upward 5 grains at a time until you find your sweet spot.

That Kodiak is a nice gun.
What primer does well with 777?
 
Well this is my opinion on primers n grs of salt ! You can use those primers that say 777 n they will fire off black powder well. If you are using Trip & or BH-209 get the full strength primers. I use the Win. or Fed. i do not like CCI's i jumped on the band wagon many many years ago n they turned out not to be the best thing since sliced bread.
 
You won't have any trouble with the muzzleloader specific primers. You'll have some crud ring with them but not near as bad as when using the full strength reloading primers.
 
Well this is my opinion on primers n grs of salt ! You can use those primers that say 777 n they will fire off black powder well. If you are using Trip & or BH-209 get the full strength primers. I use the Win. or Fed. i do not like CCI's i jumped on the band wagon many many years ago n they turned out not to be the best thing since sliced bread.

My experience is different. CCI primers work good shooting all my rifles with all my bullets, and all my powders.

777 powder does not require full strenth primers.
 
I’m kinda new to this, i know what fffg and ffg mean, but for a 50 cal which is the best? I’ve heard mixed opinions
There ya go opinions ! This is one of those things that only your rifle n loads/bullets /powder/gr will let you know. We can give you a ball park answer n thats usually from our own exp. Like my post above on the primers. I have never had a crud ring from Trip 7 in my Blk. Dia. 50 cal. I get that dreaded stuff in my T/C .45 Hawken starts it at 60 gr using a prb.
 
I’m kinda new to this, i know what fffg and ffg mean, but for a 50 cal which is the best? I’ve heard mixed opinions
Everything, gun, powder, bullet/sabot combination is pretty much in the wind until you take time to shoot the gun with different powders and bullet combos to know what the gun likes.

My .45 Kodiak prints a very nice cloverleaf at 100 yards using the T7 fffg powder in the charge I mentioned with the bullet mentioned. T7 FFg powder produced a larger group at 100 yards when everything else stayed the same.

Being new to the game, maybe the best advice I can offer is to shoot the gun. Shoot it a lot. Try different charge rates and try different bullet/sabot combos. Try different primers because that tiny thing can mean a lot when it comes to dialing in a gun. Shoot the gun. And don't make assumptions that everything is dialed until you have shot it enough to know for sure.
 
Everything, gun, powder, bullet/sabot combination is pretty much in the wind until you take time to shoot the gun with different powders and bullet combos to know what the gun likes.

My .45 Kodiak prints a very nice cloverleaf at 100 yards using the T7 fffg powder in the charge I mentioned with the bullet mentioned. T7 FFg powder produced a larger group at 100 yards when everything else stayed the same.

Being new to the game, maybe the best advice I can offer is to shoot the gun. Shoot it a lot. Try different charge rates and try different bullet/sabot combos. Try different primers because that tiny thing can mean a lot when it comes to dialing in a gun. Shoot the gun. And don't make assumptions that everything is dialed until you have shot it enough to know for sure.

This. The only difference between ML load development and centerfire load development is you don't need a reloading press, dies, priming tools, case trimmers, calipers, case lube, scales (well, maybe), case gauges, primer pocket reamers, case mouth chamferers... well, you get the idea.

Start at minimal powder needed for desired application (30gr 3Fg in my .54 is great with a round ball and 50 yard plinkin) and add 5-10 grains and shoot a group, repeat until group is small enough and power is enough
 
I’m kinda new to this, i know what fffg and ffg mean, but for a 50 cal which is the best? I’ve heard mixed opinions
My Renegades 50s/54s all like either80-90 grains of OE 2F/3F under conicals and roundball . the 54s actually shoot POA at 100 yds or close enough I'd have to look at the tube the charge is in to make sure . However 90 gr of 3F gives you a little more recoil at times just to let you know/Ed
 
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