Primer failure

[Frontstuffer]

What should be the case is that the cup area on the end of the hammer should centered on the nipple, right?

Here are orthogonal views of the hammer down on the nipple.

 

[edmehlig]

What should be the case is that the cup area on the end of the hammer should centered on the nipple, right?

yes

 

[edmehlig]

Here are orthogonal views of the hammer down on the nipple.

Looks like it should be. I assume you clean your flash hole during your cleaning process.

 

[eekjellander]

The new ones are No. 1075 Plus RWS GmbH Furth and the older ones are Remington No. 11 Black powder caps.

The RWS primers are excellent ,try replacing the nipple and check for fit on primer . If it takes more than 1 hit (polish/tune the nipple) taper till it's 1 hit every time! /Ed

 

[Shorty]

Try what Ed says. I would remove old nipple, clean the inside of it. Inspect it very good, then take some sand paper and very carefully sand the edge down , bevel it slightly where the cap sits on it. The 1075 are an excellent hotter cap they are just a whisker smaller than the number 11. This should fix your problem…

 

[Bobcat777]

I am having trouble with primers failing to detonate. My guess is that polishing the hammer mechanism or installing a heavier spring be the course of action to correct this?

 

[eekjellander]

see above remedy's 1st

 

[eekjellander]

Your right you are guessing!/Ed

 

[Hanshi]

It does appear the caps are small enough that they aren't fully seated until hit by the hammer. This can be responsible for residue plugging the nipple hole. The advice of sanding down the nipple or getting a different nipple was great advice IMHO.

 

[Frontstuffer]

Try what Ed says. I would remove old nipple, clean the inside of it. Inspect it very good, then take some sand paper and very carefully sand the edge down , bevel it slightly where the cap sits on it. The 1075 are an excellent hotter cap they are just a whisker smaller than the number 11. This should fix your problem…

Thank you.

 

[Frontstuffer]

Looks like it should be. I assume you clean your flash hole during your cleaning process.

Yes

 

[hapEcat]

Everyone, take a 2nd look at the side view of the hammer/nipple alignment... It ain't quite square.
It's striking the bottom half of the nipple, so a shorter nipple may be in order.

 

[Bob Turkeytrack]

Has this rifle been dry fired? That may peen or “mushroom” the nipple, making it impossible to seat your caps.

Nipples don’t cost much. I would replace it, regardless.

Good luck!

Bob Turkeytrack

 

[Frontstuffer]

Everyone, take a 2nd look at the side view of the hammer/nipple alignment... It ain't quite square.
It's striking the bottom half of the nipple, so a shorter nipple may be in order.

Thank you! I will verify and correct that.

 

[Frontstuffer]

Has this rifle been dry fired? That may peen or “mushroom” the nipple, making it impossible to seat your caps.

Nipples don’t cost much. I would replace it, regardless.

Good luck!

Bob Turkeytrack

Never to my knowledge and the nipple shows no evidence of dry firing.

 

[Frontstuffer]

Has this rifle been dry fired? That may peen or “mushroom” the nipple, making it impossible to seat your caps.

Nipples don’t cost much. I would replace it, regardless.

Good luck!

Bob Turkeytrack

Thank you.

 

[Frontstuffer]

Thank you.

Here’s a new finding. The hammer coil spring is working against the inletting for the lock. I believe I should correct the inletting. What’s the advice from this site?
Thank you all.

 

[eekjellander]

Here’s a new finding. The hammer coil spring is working against the inletting for the lock. I believe I should correct the inletting. What’s the advice from this site?
Thank you all.

You may be right , clear the interference with the spring and all will be well/Ed

 

[WP79Vet]

Here’s a new finding. The hammer coil spring is working against the inletting for the lock. I believe I should correct the inletting. What’s the advice from this site?
Thank you all.

My opinion is that you absolutely have to correct the inletting to eliminate the interference. I recommend removing the wood just a little at a time, and after each removal, putting a little lipstick on the wood, re-assembling the rifle, dry firing (with a thick piece of rubber or leather over the nipple to keep it from getting damaged), and then taking the lock back out to see whether there are marks in the lipstick, or there's lipstick on the coil spring.

In addition to corrrecting the inletting, I also recommend inspecting, correcting if necessary, and polishing the metal parts in your lock. Here's why:

When I bought a new-in-the-box TC Renegade last year, it seemed to me that there was lots of friction when I cocked the hammer, and that the hammer strike was weak, and very slow. When I took the lock apart, I found that several burrs on metal parts that moved against other metal parts had actually engraved grooves, and I also found that many metal surfaces that slide against each other as the lock is cocked and then fired were quite rough. So... I removed the burrs, first with a fine flat file, and then with abrasive paper. Then I carefully polished all metal surfaces that move against each other, starting with 800 grit paper, and finishing with 4,000 grit paper. While I have no way of measuring these things, there doesn't seem to be any friction at all when I cock the hammer now, I'd be willing to bet that the lock time has been cut in half, or maybe more, and the hammer strike is very forceful. I didn't fire the rifle until these things were done, but I've now fired around 100 rounds, and haven't had a single misfire, despite using caps that are around 10 years old, and despite using T7 that was about 8 years old for the majority of the shots I've fired.

I have had two "snabangs," though - one of them when I forgot to clear the flash channel by firing a couple of caps before starting my shooting session, and one that may have been due to contamination of powder that was left in the rifle through a two-week hunting season. See my thread "Powder Contamination in Hunting Muzzle-Loaders?" if you're curious about the details of these "snabangs", and possible solutions.

 

[Frontstuffer]

You may be right , clear the interference with the spring and all will be well/Ed

Thank you.