Ramrod Snapped Off

[2thepoint]

Need help figuring out how to remove the lower end of a wood ramrod that is jammed in the barrel. I have a splintered end about 1/4" below the crown of the barrel. The gun is a CVA .50 cal kit gun with an octagonal barrel. My friend inherited it in that condition so I have no idea if it was loaded or how the ramrod got stuck. Any help is appreciated.

thanks

 

[edmehlig]

Phil, I’m not sure but maybe this video may help you?
https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/threads/i-have-a-stuck-bullet-video.39277/

 

[southdakbearfan]

Being that close to the crown, can you drill it, run a long screw into in and pull? Possibly soak with lube a little first?

I wouldn't use a pliers for fear of buggering the crown, but tie the screw to paracord or wire then run the wire up to a support in the air and pull the gun straight down.

 

[sheriffjohn]

Had similar thing with 3-piece aluminum ramrod when threads stripped between two of the sections. Ended up using a "two-headed" screw for bolting toilets to the floor. Machine threaded portion into a one-piece steel military ramrod, the "wood screw" portion went into the barrel and eventually bit into the "missing" section inside the barrel. It took quite a while and many attempts, but eventually worked.

Big differences - I knew what was there, only a cleaning patch on the end of the ramrod. Also, I had a hole to hit and the aluminum rod would not swell nor splinter.

 

[bstorric]

Phil, I’m not sure but maybe this video may help you?
https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/threads/i-have-a-stuck-bullet-video.39277/

This would be the way I would do it as well. Especially not knowing if its loaded and how stuck it actually is. You can apply ALOT of pressure with hydraulics without the worry of accidentally damaging the bore or anything else. Plus it will almost definitely work and you wont have to keep trying new things after failed attempts

 

[deermanok]

Do you know what is on the other end? Patch maybe? If so, you can pour some light oil down the barrel. Even vegetable oil would work. Let it soak in a while. If you can grab the end of the ramrod with niddlenose pliers, you should able to slowly twist and pull out the ramrod.

 

[ourway77]

I agree long needle nosed pliers Had the same thing bought a ML'er for a song Ram Rod broke off

 

[rfd]

Need to see the problem before rendering an opinion.

 

[Matthew323]

The safest way to remove any object stuck in a barrel, patched ball, lead conical, saboted bullet, broken off ramrod or jag, is to use hydraulics vis-a-vis pumping grease through a zerk fitting into the barrel through the threaded nipple seat.

Any other method risks damaging the bore, or crown as a result of steel screws that are at least as hard as the barrel's steel.

IMO, the possible downsides to any of the other methods far outweigh the possible time saved, or the lack of mess from not having to remove all of that grease out of the barrel.

 

[GM54-120]

One of the CO2 based dischargers might work on a stuck jag too. If you can still find one that screws in like a nipple and not just pressed up against the hole. They sell small bicycle tire inflaters for like $10-15. All you would need is a small hose and an adapter that fits the threads for the nipple.

You might even be able to achieve the same thing with a good air compressor and the correct fitting.

POINT THE MUZZLE IN A SAFE DIRECTION IF YOU TRY THEM!!!!

 

[mnoland30]

I like the compressed air option best. But if that doesn't work, I'd pour Liguid Wrench or something similar down the barrel to lube whatever is sticking, and disable any powder that may be there. It should drip out the nipple if it works. Assuming it is a patch, taping the outside of you needlenose pliers should protect your crown, and the lube may let you just pull it out. If it is a bullet puller on the ramrod, and screwed into a bullet, you may be able to unscrew the ramrod. Once any possible powder is disabled, you can remove the nipple and dribble enough powder in to remove the obstruction. I've done this to remove a bullet that was rammed down with no powder under it.

 

[rfd]

Using needle nose pliers to pull out a busted and stuck ramrod is NOT the way to go - the chances for buggering the muzzle crown are extremely high.

I'd doubt the rod busted clean at 90* and instead sheared off as the wood grain runs which leaves a slope for drilling in a hole to screw something in that'll allow the rod to be extracted.

IF the breech plug is of the patent ilk - which it will be for any offshore muzzy such as CVA, T/C, Lyman, DGW, Cabelas, Traditions, Investarms, etc - the stuck ball/busted rod fix is relatively easy.

The OP didn't say whether the ignition is cap or flint. Flint is easiest - unscrew the touch hole liner and load the patent flue full with powder (it will accept at least 20 grains or more), return the liner and blast whatever is stuck in the bbl out. Do the same with cap guns, remove the nipple and work powder into the flue.

The concept of dry balling or busting a rod down the tube is not will it ever happen, but when will it happen.

And yet again, the ability to remove any and all trad sidelock muzzy breech plugs has boo-boo proof benefits. Specialized tooling is not required, just makes it easier. Pulling and lubing the plug on a new gun and lubing it is a smart thing to do. Fired guns can be Difficult since the BP residue will have migrated into the dry plug threads. Some guns - notably Traditions - have plugs that are nearly welded in and near impossible to remove, even with a new and unfired gun.

 

[LanceS4803]

POINT THE MUZZLE IN A SAFE DIRECTION IF YOU TRY THEM!!!!

On a recent edition of "Hollywood Weapons", they showed just how effective a ramrod was on the human body when fired rom a MZ.

 

[rfd]

.... POINT THE MUZZLE IN A SAFE DIRECTION IF YOU TRY THEM!!!!

This is a non-issue to anyone who both understands and faithfully follows the safety tenets for all firearms, which I trust is everyone on this and all firearms forums.

 

[Bad Karma]

All this time shooting t/c products and never knew they were made offshore. What do you know…
Anywhooo… I’d use co2, air, or grease. Whatever is handy. Nobody knows what was stuffed into that rifle before the ramrod was snapped in place. Could be a proper load of black powder, could easily be a handful of dark grey powder… if you do shove a primer charge under the nipple, maybe fire it remotely in case it’s now a large firecracker…

 

[Frank in Fairfield]

Take the gun to a gunsmith and have him/her de-breach the rifle.

 

[GM54-120]

All this time shooting t/c products and never knew they were made offshore. What do you know…

First ive heard of that too considering the plant that made the Scouts and sidlelocks in the USA burned down didnt it?

 

[rfd]

T/C sidelock muzzleloaders may have at one time been made in their NY plant. The last one I had was flinter Hawken that had offshore bbl stampings. All that really matters is the patent breech plug for a side lock, and T/Cs and Investarms are the best for me with that regards.

Even if there is a full house load under the rod, 20 added grains won't matter a fig.

BUT, the OP of this thread hasn't replied with what is the ignition system and has he at least tried to fire the gun.

 

[rfd]

Take the gun to a gunsmith and have him/her de-breach the rifle.

Yes indeed - and have the breech plug screwed back with anti-seize grease. Dittos for a bolster, nipple, or touch hole liner!

 

[Bad Karma]

First ive heard of that too considering the plant that made the Scouts and sidlelocks in the USA burned down didnt it?

Yeah, sadly it came at a low point in sidelock interest on the part of consumers, and apparently the ownership group. Seems there’s a resurgence in interest around sidelocks now. T/C products move very well these days in the used market. And they’re one heck of a value compared to anything new from the Italian companies.