Ruger 10/44 cycling problem

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snapbang

Imlay City Michigan
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Rody's Gun Shop. 3 Chateau Dr. Newport NH 03773. 1 Reviews. (603) 863-3356.

I found this information on a forum and called. I talked with Bill who said do this.

Get some acetone or denatured alcohol and soak the trigger group for at least 3 hours and overnight would be better. There are several you-tube videos on how to assemble and disassemble the 10/44. I found one that I had not previously seen and the guy takes it down to the bare bone.

I pulled out the trigger group ( Bill calls it a lower) and filled a quart jar with acetone. I soaked it for 3 1/2 days. I had a fine, soft bristle paint brush so gently used it to wash what I could reach. I also pulled the brisles out of a broom so I could reach deep into the group and clean a little more, then blew it out with a compressor. Bill says there is nothing in the group that will dissolve. The acetone is perfectly safe to soak the group. Then he said spray it with WD-40 and blow it out again. I did that.

Put the trigger group back in my gun, loaded 3 shells in the tubular magazine, and all 3 fed and fired perfectly. FYI Bill said they used these 10/44 to hunt for many years and they used whatever ammo was on the shelf. I had asked him if the gun was ammo specific and he was sure it wasn't. Not in his experience anyway. I used Winchester 210 grain Silvertip hollowpoints Mfg # X44MSTHP2

So if any of you are having cycling problems with this type of gun he said the above procedure will solve the problem 95% of the time.

Hope this helps.
 
I did pick up information on another site. After getting my gun (44 Ruger Carbine) to cycle properly I hand loaded some rounds to get sighted in. Never did this for a 44 but have for a 357. Horrible accuracy. The information on the other site said the barrel band needs to be just tight enough to not fall off. So I did that. The result below from 60 yards. Considering it is a 100 yard cartridge/gun Im thrilled.
 

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The last time I hunted in Northern Maine, I only had one of my muzzleloader rifles.
One of the other guys at my buddy 's camp let me borrow a Ruger 44 carbine. It had a vintage 6X scope.
Redfield, I think?
Never got to take a shot at a deer with it. It was a very handy little gun to tote around the woods.
I offered to buy it but it wasn't for sale.
 
I sold one a couple of years ago for $750. I think the one I have is worth $1,000.00 At least thats what they paid in the last auction.

Yes they are very light and easy to swing. I killed a deer on a deer drive in December. Could hear the 240 grain bullet go smack.
 
Snapbang I am the proud owner of one of these rifles. If you have one of those YouTube videos that you recommend, could you please send me a link to it. Thanks In Advance
 
Im not the worlds best with links and stuff. In case the one below does not work I do this.
Type in your search disassemble ruger 44 carbine you tube. It should be the first video that shows up. I think this is the easy way.


or try clicking on this
https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...30dc14ed419622cb6bf9a1f0db31c9e6&action=click
It worked great TiggerLueb.

1. I did let mine soak in acetone for 4 days because I was out of town. Bill assured me there was nothing in the group that could be damaged by a longer soak.
2. I also used a long bristle paint brush and pushed it gently into the group to help scrub what I could reach.
3. I also pulled a few bristles out of a broom to scrub way deep into the group. Very gently so as not to dislodge something. I have been into a pile of guns and did a lot of trigger work. For some reasons it scares me to do that in this gun.
4. Also clean around the piston. its at the muzzle end of the magazine. Assuming you have a tube feed. I think there are magazine feeds.
5. maybe a pipe cleaner would get in there deeper.
let me know if I can help
 
I had one of these 20+ years ago, it would only cycle correctly when I shot 240gr full power ammo, everything else would not cycle properly.
 
it would only cycle correctly when I shot 240gr full power ammo,

I talked with Bill about that. He said he and his crew used these models with off the shelf ammo and were never really concerned about which one they used. But Ive heard the same thing. I think all agree you need full power ammo. They are wonderful little carbines and its a shame that Ruger didn't tweak them at the factory to be a little more tolerant of dirt. On the other hand they work when clean and the gun is worth a lot more money than what I paid for it so I shouldn't complain. 🙂
 
I have one of these as well. The YouTube author does a really excellent job of explaining the take down and reassembly. I did NOT take the trigger assembly apart. Found I did not need to. The author obviously knows his stuff but he fires off some colorful language when little hiccups occur. Quite entertaining!!
I had a problem with my safety. For some mysterious reason the safety was stuck in the "fire" position. One YouTuber said use penetrating oil and another said whatever you do, do NOT use penetrating oil. After watching the reassembly video above I decided to NOT takedown the trigger assembly and go visit my local gunsmith. Discovery --the safety will only move to fire and back to safe when the bolt is cocked. Not my issue. The safety button will spin and if spun inadvertently it can stick in the fire position. No oil and no filing just spin to align correctly. Had fun with the rest of the takedown and reassembly tho!! And it loves to chew through 240 gr.
 
TiggerLueb, you have a chance to try this yet?????

Thanks for the info Blackrock. Ill keep on the lookout for my trigger doing the same.
I haven’t had a chance to get to this project but I know that things will settle down next week and I will work on it then.
 
Gas operated auto loading systems require a very specific pressure curve. If the pressure peak hits the port too soon or too late, the firearm will not operate correctly. If you are using handloads, the powder used must mimic the pressure curve of the factory ammo the arm was designed to use.
 
I talked with Bill about that. He said he and his crew used these models with off the shelf ammo and were never really concerned about which one they used. But Ive heard the same thing. I think all agree you need full power ammo. They are wonderful little carbines and its a shame that Ruger didn't tweak them at the factory to be a little more tolerant of dirt. On the other hand they work when clean and the gun is worth a lot more money than what I paid for it so I shouldn't complain. 🙂

alittle dirt can cause big problems, I’d rather have the tight tolerance’s
 
I haven't heard mention of the Ruger 44 carbine in many a year but was (and still is) a great little rifle. A minor problem with the gun is jamming due to copper being scraped off into the gas cylinder hampering it's free travel. Lead bullets will wad it up even faster. Corrosion and carbon in the gas cylinder will also cause jams. It's an easy fix to clean the gas cylinder with a cleaning brush and solvent. This should be done periodically on that sweet rifle even if it's not jamming.
 
I made some time yesterday to look after an old friend, my Ruger 44 carbine. Obviously I didn't take the time to clean the trigger group by letting it soak for hours. As I followed the directions in the video and removed the trigger group, what I found was that it was in great shape and I lubricated it lightly. In my past experiences with the rifle if I used 180 or 210 grain Hornady ammunition the rifle functions 100 percent of the time. I gave the rest of the rifle a thorough cleaning, a light coat of lubricant, gave the stock another coat of oil before I reassembled it. The Ruger carbine is not residing with his friends in my safe.
Thanks for the information and inspiration folks!
 
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