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You could try pyrodex or white hot pellets. Personally I’ve never liked 777. Like stated above a different bullet or sabot combo. Hornady bore drivers or tez Barnes bullets go down my barrel easy and are accurate.
 
I know that a lot of you like the sabots.I have tried a variety of bullet/sabot combinations. I don't like then.just another thing to fumble with.I say ditch the sabot- go with a full size bullet and a cleaner powder ( if ya can get it ) and spit patch between every shot while at the range.You can spit patch after your second shot to see what to expect if you need a follow up shot when hunting,then go back to the spit patch swabbing between shots.When hunting with a ML, your first shot will be the most important one.I guess I'm lucky,in 50+ years of ML hunting I can remember only one occasion I needed a follow up shot.The swabbing will also prevent ya from getting your eyebrows singed !!! slow down and enjoy the sport and good luck to you.
 
Continued..
I also carry a rigid, non-spinning range rod with an extended knurled (Thompson Center™ Extended Super Jag .50 Cal Brass with 10-32 Threads - 9087) jag on the end. Look for jags that will best fit the bullet nose you're using .... then use it for both cleaning and loading. The non-spinning range rod variety will more efficiently wipe off any crud rings quickly with the mentioned knurled jag and wet patch.

After shooting, wring out excess water from a wet patch and run it all the way down then back up twice. Flip wet patch and repeat. Get a second wet patch and run it all the way down .... while firmly pushing down on the rod, rotate the handle 6 half turns (for me anyway). These revolutions will cause the jag to scrub out any build-up/crud ring @ the barrel-breech interface. Extract the patch, flip, repeat, then discard.

Run a dry patch up/down the barrel a couple times, flip, repeat.
Run a second dry patch down and repeat.

I forgot something in my list above. I'm an expert-in-training at memory loss these days.
In my list above, I forgot to add a Ziplock containing a few Rem-Oil or similar wipes:
https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/rem...bEtHAR0ghgKPEAQYASABEgLg6_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds.After the 2 dry patches, I run an oil wipe up-down down the barrel 1 time, with a couple twists again while rod is fully inserted. Save the oil wipe.

Fire off a non-corrosive primer to clean out any moisture inside the breech plug. I've found that Livingston County, Michigan deer don't care since the report is minimal. Lots of farms/homesteads around and the deer are used to hearing dogs, kids, hammering lumber, pick-up trucks, tractors, etc. I may get some flack for this, but during the rut, I believe bucks are focused on one thing and could care less about a single small pop. On a few occasions, I've killed some dandy bucks chasing does, that I'd just shot. Does are often the same way, even when a full load is fired. They're often confused with the origin and don't run far if at all.

Lastly I run a third dry patch up-down with a couple revolutions again at bottom. This wipes out any residue from the primer.

Ready to load.

With the T7 poured in, I use the oil wipe and with my fingers apply a very light oil film on the outside of the sabot. It helps with loading, especially in freezing cold weather when everything's contracted. Without the light oil, I could be heard 3 states over when I jammed my fingers between the ball starter and the barrel muzzle. The key here is to practice consistency between every shot. With everything including bullet seating pressure, cleaning strokes, etc. etc. You'll need a ball starter (PowerBelt® Bullet Starter w/ 9 Adapter Tips - AC1500) to get the bullet moving, before you use the range rod.

While the above may look extensive, it isn't. Less than 30 seconds for me.

If you can find BH209 that doesn't require a second mortgage, then consider switching. I've used T7 for many/many years and have never had loading issues using this technique.

This is how I do it and it's worked for me. YMMV. Best of luck!
 
I'd ditch the pellets for loose 777 fffg. It burns cleaner and leaves less crud ring than pellets. Personally I believe whatever they use to bond those pellets together is the problem. Crush ribs are the easiest loading sabots I've ever used and should help with that second shot. Another option is a 320gr Fury universal bullet...no sabot needed. The BH209 is the best powder option out there but can be hard to find and is the most expensive option and will require hotter primers than what you have now. Personally I'd start with the Crush Rib sabots to begin with because it's the cheapest option.
 
Continued..
I also carry a rigid, non-spinning range rod with an extended knurled (Thompson Center™ Extended Super Jag .50 Cal Brass with 10-32 Threads - 9087) jag on the end. Look for jags that will best fit the bullet nose you're using .... then use it for both cleaning and loading. The non-spinning range rod variety will more efficiently wipe off any crud rings quickly with the mentioned knurled jag and wet patch.

After shooting, wring out excess water from a wet patch and run it all the way down then back up twice. Flip wet patch and repeat. Get a second wet patch and run it all the way down .... while firmly pushing down on the rod, rotate the handle 6 half turns (for me anyway). These revolutions will cause the jag to scrub out any build-up/crud ring @ the barrel-breech interface. Extract the patch, flip, repeat, then discard.

Run a dry patch up/down the barrel a couple times, flip, repeat.
Run a second dry patch down and repeat.

I forgot something in my list above. I'm an expert-in-training at memory loss these days.
In my list above, I forgot to add a Ziplock containing a few Rem-Oil or similar wipes:
https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/rem...bEtHAR0ghgKPEAQYASABEgLg6_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds.After the 2 dry patches, I run an oil wipe up-down down the barrel 1 time, with a couple twists again while rod is fully inserted. Save the oil wipe.

Fire off a non-corrosive primer to clean out any moisture inside the breech plug. I've found that Livingston County, Michigan deer don't care since the report is minimal. Lots of farms/homesteads around and the deer are used to hearing dogs, kids, hammering lumber, pick-up trucks, tractors, etc. I may get some flack for this, but during the rut, I believe bucks are focused on one thing and could care less about a single small pop. On a few occasions, I've killed some dandy bucks chasing does, that I'd just shot. Does are often the same way, even when a full load is fired. They're often confused with the origin and don't run far if at all.

Lastly I run a third dry patch up-down with a couple revolutions again at bottom. This wipes out any residue from the primer.

Ready to load.

With the T7 poured in, I use the oil wipe and with my fingers apply a very light oil film on the outside of the sabot. It helps with loading, especially in freezing cold weather when everything's contracted. Without the light oil, I could be heard 3 states over when I jammed my fingers between the ball starter and the barrel muzzle. The key here is to practice consistency between every shot. With everything including bullet seating pressure, cleaning strokes, etc. etc. You'll need a ball starter (PowerBelt® Bullet Starter w/ 9 Adapter Tips - AC1500) to get the bullet moving, before you use the range rod.

While the above may look extensive, it isn't. Less than 30 seconds for me.

If you can find BH209 that doesn't require a second mortgage, then consider switching. I've used T7 for many/many years and have never had loading issues using this technique.

This is how I do it and it's worked for me. YMMV. Best of luck!
If I had to do that every time I’d give up muzzleloaders.
 
I'd ditch the pellets for loose 777 fffg. It burns cleaner and leaves less crud ring than pellets. Personally I believe whatever they use to bond those pellets together is the problem. Crush ribs are the easiest loading sabots I've ever used and should help with that second shot. Another option is a 320gr Fury universal bullet...no sabot needed. The BH209 is the best powder option out there but can be hard to find and is the most expensive option and will require hotter primers than what you have now. Personally I'd start with the Crush Rib sabots to begin with because it's the cheapest option.
Yeah I would love to try the 209 even at this ridiculous price from where it was two years ago if it's as good as everyone says but I wasn't able to get any. As far as 777 fffg or ffg? Everything I have read is ffg. Then I think I am going to order the crush ribs and swap out the ones that came with my xtp's.
 
I’ve seen B209 at a few shops, WI & MI, sadly priced at $79. Where are you located?


Crush Rib - High Pressure Sabots - 50 Caliber (50 Pack)


Here is a link to better, more forgiving sabots.
I live in NJ. Which also means to my knowledge that I can’t mail order it. When I bought the triple 7 and the sabots they had to log my drivers license by law. Clearly unconstitutional and I am sure with the Bruen ruling that will be changing but it’s going to have to go the Supreme Court.
 
Yeah I would love to try the 209 even at this ridiculous price from where it was two years ago if it's as good as everyone says but I wasn't able to get any. As far as 777 fffg or ffg? Everything I have read is ffg. Then I think I am going to order the crush ribs and swap out the ones that came with my xtp's.
I second Farmingdales recommendation for the T7 fffg I’ve gotten several shots off without swabbing. Quite a few of us use the fffg.
 
I'd ditch the pellets for loose 777 fffg. It burns cleaner and leaves less crud ring than pellets. Personally I believe whatever they use to bond those pellets together is the problem. Crush ribs are the easiest loading sabots I've ever used and should help with that second shot. Another option is a 320gr Fury universal bullet...no sabot needed. The BH209 is the best powder option out there but can be hard to find and is the most expensive option and will require hotter primers than what you have now. Personally I'd start with the Crush Rib sabots to begin with because it's the cheapest option.
Loose powder is the way to go! I use FFFG T7.......it's like rocket fuel and burns clean!
 
If you swab between shots it probably won’t happen. Personally I like to shoot, not swab, but some of the folks here love swabbing their barrels.
I swab between shots for consistency. Increased fouling from shot after shot means more pressure which means inconsistency. Removing the fouling between shots more closely resembles hunting and shooting on a clean barrel. I don't know about you but I like to harvest my animal on the first shot!
 
I swab between shots for consistency. Increased fouling from shot after shot means more pressure which means inconsistency. Removing the fouling between shots more closely resembles hunting and shooting on a clean barrel. I don't know about you but I like to harvest my animal on the first shot!
I prefer to shoot them a half dozen times.
 
Yeah I would love to try the 209 even at this ridiculous price from where it was two years ago if it's as good as everyone says but I wasn't able to get any. As far as 777 fffg or ffg? Everything I have read is ffg. Then I think I am going to order the crush ribs and swap out the ones that came with my xtp's.
FFG is the norm for 50 cal and above but FFFG will work just fine in a 50. Just use a little less.
 
I tear down and do a full clean after every shot when I'm at the range. Cold and clean bore everytime, just like in the field.
 
A couple of things that work well at the range or in the field to deal with the crud ring:
1. Alcohol swabs, the kind like they use to clean your skin before a shot. Get the large ones and they work great as a patch to swab the bore with between shots.
2. My preferred is a mixture of Balliston and water. It’ll turn milky white, that’s why it’s called “Moose Milk” or other various names. Spray a patch with it then run it down. Will break down the fouling nicely.

With T7 you will have a crud ring, just the nature of the powder. I have found that with loose powder I can get 3 shots off fairly easily. After 3 I will run either a patch with moose milk on it, or an alcohol swab down the barre. The trick is short strokes as you work it down the bore and when you feel the resistance of the crud ring don’t try to force it past it, just bump up against it a few times then it will break down enough to run the patch past it without it getting stuck. IF you try to force it past the ring on the first go, you’ll likely get the patch and jag stuck which is a pain in the but.

Hope this helps.

At the range I focus on 2-3 shot groups between cleaning. First shot, on a cold and clean bore is the most important for that initial shot on the animal, but the second and possibly third shot from a fouled bore is also important in case I need to make a follow up shot.
 

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