Rust after cleaning a sidelock

[coupe]

I've read a lot about bore rust after the cleaning and all the concoctions to stop it, I thought I would put in a fresh 2 cents worth. I have a spray can of BOESHIELD T9 that I use on my wood work equipment to stop rust. This is good on cast tables of saws, drill press, jointers, saw blades, router bits ect. It stops rust dead, leaves a film on the metal which I clean with alcohol and then a dry patch. It was developed by boeing aircraft co. for lube and corrosion protection for the aircraft. Wet a patch n down the bore and done, on the out side does as well. Get it at wood working sites.
coupe

 

[phalanx]

I've use Boeshield under the cover on my outboard and it has done quite well even in a salt water environment. Good stuff.

 

[ElDiablo]

Been using Boeshield for maybe 20 years on my waterfowl shotguns. May have to try it on my muzzleloaders. Thx

 

[bronko220002]

I have not heard of bore rust after cleaning if the cleaning/preservative was done properly.
Now using a hot water wash, yes, I've heard of flash rust which I get too. But that wipes right off with a couple lightly oiled patches. Some of my muzzys sit for 8 months or so and never have any rust in the bore.

 

[deermanok]

Good tip.

 

[coupe]

Well I don't even want flash rust, and it can happen even when properly done. I haven't had any when i've cleaned with hot water, drained bore down and dry patched then treated with t9, it displaces water lubes and coats the bore no water mixed oils or other mixes of any kind.
Just my way, not the way only. You do yours I'll do mine, been that way for 46 years of shooting, not saying t9's been here for that long but when I found it I used it, serves me well.

 

[bronko220002]

Well I don't even want flash rust, and it can happen even when properly done. I haven't had any when i've cleaned with hot water, drained bore down and dry patched then treated with t9, it displaces water lubes and coats the bore no water mixed oils or other mixes of any kind.
Just my way, not the way only. You do yours I'll do mine, been that way for 46 years of shooting, not saying t9's been here for that long but when I found it I used it, serves me well.

Like I stated in my post, flash rust is no issue at all. This is because of the high carbon content in the steel. After a hot soapy water swabbing followed by a hot rinse this flash rust will show up immediately because the proper cleaning removes ANY preservatives that were in the barrel in addition to any fouling. If you've haven't had any flash rust after cleaning with hot water then you either have a stainless steel barrel or aren't cleaning down to the bare metal.
This will wipe off just using both sides of a dry patch. I usually then swab with an alcohol patch while the barrel is still hot the Montana Extreme Cowboy Blend and finally with Montana Extreme Bore conditioner.

 

[Montana Muzzleloader]

Thank you for the tip. While I haven’t ever had any post cleaning rust issues, it never hurts to have some knowledge of a new/different product or technique that could be handy someday.

 

[Renegadehunter]

I have used several different rust preventatives after cleaning and drying. All have worked save one. I have settled on using Barricade, I like that it dries into a film and I can load up and shoot with it still in the bore if I want.

Flash rust after cleaning. I have always had flash rust if I heated the water at all. Boiling, hot, warm, didn't matter. Room temp or cold, no flash rust.
In many different threads, some say they always see it like I do and some say they never see it.
Long story short, I have a theory about it that I believe to be true.
City water is treated with chlorine. I was using city water. Everyone that I asked that said they always got flash rust also said it was city water. The folks that didn't were on well water...no chlorine.
I started buying distilled water and using that. Haven't seen any flash rust since. If you always get flash rust, I would bet you're on treated city water. Try some distilled and let me know if the flash rust goes away.
I believe cold or room temp cleans just as well, but I like hot for how quickly it evaporates off.

 

[Montana Muzzleloader]

I have used several different rust preventatives after cleaning and drying. All have worked save one. I have settled on using Barricade, I like that it dries into a film and I can load up and shoot with it still in the bore if I want.

Flash rust after cleaning. I have always had flash rust if I heated the water at all. Boiling, hot, warm, didn't matter. Room temp or cold, no flash rust.
In many different threads, some say they always see it like I do and some say they never see it.
Long story short, I have a theory about it that I believe to be true.
City water is treated with chlorine. I was using city water. Everyone that I asked that said they always got flash rust also said it was city water. The folks that didn't were on well water...no chlorine.
I started buying distilled water and using that. Haven't seen any flash rust since. If you always get flash rust, I would bet you're on treated city water. Try some distilled and let me know if the flash rust goes away.
I believe cold or room temp cleans just as well, but I like hot for how quickly it evaporates off.

Interesting theory! I’ve never had it and I have well water.

 

[bronko220002]

I may have to try using distilled water even if its just to prove the theory.

 

[bronko220002]

I was thinking about buying this Boeshield but after looking at the MSDS on it I have decided against it. Its basically nothing more than mineral spirits and mineral oil. Probably something you can mix at home for a small fraction of the cost.
https://www.theruststore.com/msds/MSDS_T9_Liquid_2005.pdf

 

[coupe]

why buy distilled water, if you have ac in your house you make distilled water while it's running. I'm sure someone will state it is not a distilled process but it's close enough, maybe only a modicum of dust mixed in it is a condensed water!


















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[michiganmuzzy]

why buy distilled water, if you have ac in your house you make distilled water while it's running. I'm sure someone will state it is not a distilled process but it's close enough, maybe only a modicum of dust mixed in it is a condensed water! i

I have a dehumidifier running 24/7/365. Its the only water my cat will drink. Might oughta try cleaning with that.

 

[coupe]

When you try it keep us informed then, if you have city water, try it and see the difference if any.
Thanks coupe

 

[exarcher]

Well I don't even want flash rust, and it can happen even when properly done. I haven't had any when i've cleaned with hot water, drained bore down and dry patched then treated with t9, it displaces water lubes and coats the bore no water mixed oils or other mixes of any kind.
Just my way, not the way only. You do yours I'll do mine, been that way for 46 years of shooting, not saying t9's been here for that long but when I found it I used it, serves me well.

re flash rust,,, after doing a couple of restorations, & research on this "flash rust" is rust thats already there & you have just exposed it.. boiling gun parts/steel exposed the red oxide, converting to black oxide,, "flash rust" is red oxide & is there, you just don't see it... hot water exposes it where you can get rid of it with the non advancing black oxide left behind.. if you watch some of the gun conservation video's on u tube, it is explained much better.. you may be just ''covering up" rust with an oil product whereas you can remove it if you see it.. imo.. use water hot as you can stand, expose rust if you have it, clean it off & be happy you caught it before pitting occurs..

 

[Idaho PRB]

I was thinking about buying this Boeshield but after looking at the MSDS on it I have decided against it. Its basically nothing more than mineral spirits and mineral oil. Probably something you can mix at home for a small fraction of the cost.
https://www.theruststore.com/msds/MSDS_T9_Liquid_2005.pdf

Ballistol is also mineral oil and what I have always used. Ballistol - The Original CLP - Cleans, Lubricates, Preserves

 

[bronko220002]

re flash rust,,, after doing a couple of restorations, & research on this "flash rust" is rust thats already there & you have just exposed it.. boiling gun parts/steel exposed the red oxide, converting to black oxide,, "flash rust" is red oxide & is there, you just don't see it... hot water exposes it where you can get rid of it with the non advancing black oxide left behind.. if you watch some of the gun conservation video's on u tube, it is explained much better.. you may be just ''covering up" rust with an oil product whereas you can remove it if you see it.. imo.. use water hot as you can stand, expose rust if you have it, clean it off & be happy you caught it before pitting occurs..

That's for that interesting bit of info. I'm going to check that out.

 

[exarcher]

I was interested because it didn't seem logical for rust to occur that fast.. what i found was that the hotter the water the less dissolved oxygen in it & when its really hot with no oxygen it just can't be what was "creating the rust". I wish i had written down all the "chemistry" i found about this. rust don't happen fast unless you are exposing the steel to an acid.. that conversion from red to black (they each are different iron oxide compounds) is how rust blueing works.. Anyway, what i determined was "flash" rust don't happen.. also i found lots of those oil compounds just mix with and cover up the rust that is still active, .. (boiling water cleans all this away and "stops the rot"(rust)).. one can then easily remove the red rust scale & leave behind steel the way we want it.. steel..

 

[bronko220002]

re flash rust,,, after doing a couple of restorations, & research on this "flash rust" is rust thats already there & you have just exposed it.. boiling gun parts/steel exposed the red oxide, converting to black oxide,, "flash rust" is red oxide & is there, you just don't see it... hot water exposes it where you can get rid of it with the non advancing black oxide left behind.. if you watch some of the gun conservation video's on u tube, it is explained much better.. you may be just ''covering up" rust with an oil product whereas you can remove it if you see it.. imo.. use water hot as you can stand, expose rust if you have it, clean it off & be happy you caught it before pitting occurs..

I was interested because it didn't seem logical for rust to occur that fast.. what i found was that the hotter the water the less dissolved oxygen in it & when its really hot with no oxygen it just can't be what was "creating the rust". I wish i had written down all the "chemistry" i found about this. rust don't happen fast unless you are exposing the steel to an acid.. that conversion from red to black (they each are different iron oxide compounds) is how rust blueing works.. Anyway, what i determined was "flash" rust don't happen.. also i found lots of those oil compounds just mix with and cover up the rust that is still active, .. (boiling water cleans all this away and "stops the rot"(rust)).. one can then easily remove the red rust scale & leave behind steel the way we want it.. steel..

I'm just wondering about using products such as Baristol. I always clean my MLs as soon as I come home from the range. My sidelocks always get cleaned with warm soapy water followed by a very hot water rinse. The barrel is so hot it cannot be held with the bare hand. A swap with a dry patch shows some rust. Another and almost white. Then an alcohol patch, dry patch and light gun oil patch.
I haven't used a hot water wash on my inlines so now I'm wondering if there is any hidden rust in those? Those I clean with Baristol followed by a dry patches, alcohol patch, then gun oil, dry patch and bore conditioner.