Savage barrel tooling marks (Pics)

[mkf350]

I have seen threads regarding sending MLII back for new barrels. I was wondering if any that have had thier barrels look like this or worse.
What do you think acceptable or not.
As a side note I took this shooting on Sat and never had such a hard time loading 250gr SST w/supplied sabot. I tried cleaning between everyshot and not cleaning at all for the last 10. No difference in loading or my perceived accuracy. Temps were in mid 30's.Accuracy was 2" at 100yds w/45gr 5744. Not excellent but OK. Looks like I need to do more load developing. I might have to try MMP-24 sabots next time.

 

[Nic_58]

As a side note I took this shooting on Sat and never had such a hard time loading 250gr SST w/supplied sabot. I might have to try MMP-24 sabots next time.

Yeah, the HPH 24's or Harvester short black sabots will most likely take care of your problem.

 

[n8dawg6]

looks like an ordinary cut-rifled barrel to me. i dont think theres anything wrong with it.

 

[savageml10-2]

mine looks like that too and mine will literally shoot the nail out of the center of capnails with a 300 xtpstd w/ mmp short 44.0 5744 weighed not scooped or
huntman boolets 300grain magtip both shoot sub 1/2 to3/4groups the norm (if i can keep up) another is 42.0 VV N-110 with 250 xtp mmp short or a 250sst in hph-12 mmps this gun is as simple or as exotic as you want! you like to tinker? it will drive you mad as to its consistency! you wanna hunt deer cheap, easy and simple and no cleaning till seasons end! 300grain xtp! 39-45 grains of 5744 i bet it will shoot better than any slug gun out there. no muss no fuss get a pocampo tool and every 100 primers pull your breechplug and take a 5/32nds drill bit cleanup the primer carbon heck i pulled my breech plug 8-10 times this year to clean re-antsieze vent liner and plug and put `er back together brake cleaner and a 50 cal mop let it dry! LOL i love mine can you tell?oh and get RW ventliners they are tough over 250 shots and the pin gauge still will not pass!!! :shock:

 

[Admin]

That can't help accuracy. Have you asked Savage or sent them a picture?

 

[SW]

That's certainly not a picture of a SMI barrel.

 

[big6x6]

That's certainly not a picture of a SMI barrel.

OR an Ultralight Arms...

 

[Anonymous]

Are those fine threads or course threads????

 

[HighTechRedneck]

I hate to say it, but that actualy looks normal for a stainless barren. I have not seen a blued Savage barrel that rough, but nearly every stainless one I have looked at was that rough or worse.

 

[Anonymous]

I have seen threads regarding sending MLII back for new barrels. I was wondering if any that have had thier barrels look like this or worse.
What do you think acceptable or not.

I had one that had heavy radial scratches. It was also one of the best shooters I've ever had. :?

I've not seen any remotely close to that in the last 50 or so rifles. The question is, how does it shoot?

 

[dwhunter]

I just got back my Savage #2 from having a barrel replaced for tooling marks but what I had didn't look like those. Mine had a raised rough ring on the lands about 1/8" wide and about 1"-1 1/2" down the muzzle. The new barrel looks awesome...smooth as can be. My HB has light marks like the ones shown but that gun will throw a group under a nickle at a 100 yds. Unless the gun won't group at all I don't think it's a problem. You still might send Joe Degrande the pics to see what he has to say.

 

[Rifleman]

That looks like a normal stainless steel Savage mlII barrel to me. All I have seen looked like that. IMO it is NOT acceptable. I cannot for the life of me understand how Savage would let someting like that go out the door, but all 3 stainless guns I have set up looked like that. However in all fairness all 3 would shoot at least moa with the right load. Personally I am sick of it and do not plan to have another stainless 10mlII. It might not hurt accuracy, as a muzzleloader that shoots moa is hard to gripe about, however the question remains, How good would they shoot with better barrels. I tried to take muzzle pics before to show this, but with my camera I could not pull it off. I think Savage needs to get on the ball and correct this once and for all.

 

[SW]

I have 2 SS barreled ML2s. The 1st one I got was during the 1st year of production. It shredded sabots at any speed. Due to nearness of our gun season, I tried to redeem it by very laborous firelapping (placing bullet in breech and 1 clean shot pellet) . It really worked well but this isn't the best way to deal with such a rough barrel - sending it back would be better. The other SS looks like the pictures shown. I had an original ML with blued which was wonderfully smooth and accurate. I have 2 other blued - they are smooth and accurate. I would have voted laminated/blued. My firelapped barrel is incredibly accurate, low fouling, and equals my blued barrels in accuracy. It does need slightly different loads than my other MLs. The roughness of the SS is noticable compared to the blued. I have not seen any SS or blued barrel made in last 3 years. Maybe things have changed. Also, ML barrels don't need to be super slick so maybe Sav has done extensive testing and has found that the current radial, cut lines cause no significant problems.

 

[big6x6]

That looks like a normal stainless steel Savage mlII barrel to me. All I have seen looked like that.

Same here! One even looks WORSE, with tooling marks over the tooling marks...

I think Savage needs to get on the ball and correct this once and for all.

I agree and I wish they would. Not likely when they're selling all they have. My concern is that every time a PLASTIC sabot goes out that barrel, it is leaving a little plastic behind.. Is there any way AROUND that?...and that THAT is why so many have an accuracy issue after 100-150 shots or so.

 

[getonit]

while they may or may not effect accuracy- I would think they WOULD contribute to harder loading- though both of my 10MLII's show the radial marks- the non accutrigger loads easily- the newer model needs much more force same load/same load....I plan on buying a blued model in the future-SW has experienced what I think as it being more of a trait of the SS barrel than blue :? .....Rick

 

[big6x6]

I plan on buying a blued model in the future-SW has experienced what I think as it being more of a trait of the SS barrel than blue

Do ya'll REALLY think the blued version is more accurate?

 

[Doohan]

ALL my savages look like that pic.. I guess it is a Savage trademark for most of their barrels.. but hey, they shoot!


If you dont like the radial scratches, buy an SMI barrel or NULA :yeah:

 

[Mountain Man]

looks like an ordinary cut-rifled barrel to me. i dont think theres anything wrong with it.

Except that it's NOT a cut rifled barrel. :wink: Savage button rifles their barrels.

And no, I've not seen any other centerfire, rimfire, or muzzleloading barrels, cut or button rifled, with such significant radial tooling marks. My stainless/laminate looks just like that one.

 

[Doohan]

Do ya'll REALLY think the blued version is more accurate?

sure Chuck! and my guns shoot better on Tuesdays :drinkers:

 

[Mountain Man]

I plan on buying a blued model in the future-SW has experienced what I think as it being more of a trait of the SS barrel than blue

Do ya'll REALLY think the blued version is more accurate?

I don't know for sure, but I definitely wanted to and wish even more now that I had been able to get Randy's blued/laminate version, with or without the plastic stock.

IMO, since smokeless is not corrosive and you don't have to clean the barrel with water, there is little or no advantage to stainless barrels on the Savage. The primary benefit on a centerfire is decreased erosion from gases. However, the most rapid erosion occurs at the throat of a centerfire and takes thousands of shots to manifest itself. Since there is no such thing as a throat on a ML barrel, and since the Savage (if loaded with the book loads or the loads generally proposed by the trustworthy sources we all know) operates at much lower pressures than most centerfire rifles. That should mean somewhat lower gaseous velocity, and even if not, less potential for erosion. Combine those two factors with the fact that only a few, and I truely mean a FEW individuals have or will put thousands of rounds through a Savage, the need for increased erosion resistance just is not there. IMO.

Given the decreased eye-catching effect of a blued barrel, combined with the inexplicable radial marking in the barrel, I will definitely go with a blued model in the future.

The only question is whether I want to put my current 10ML up for sale so that I can buy one of Randy's combos.