Savage barrel tooling marks (Pics)

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dwhunter said:
I just got back my Savage #2 from having a barrel replaced for tooling marks but what I had didn't look like those. Mine had a raised rough ring on the lands about 1/8" wide and about 1"-1 1/2" down the muzzle. The new barrel looks awesome...smooth as can be. My HB has light marks like the ones shown but that gun will throw a group under a nickle at a 100 yds. Unless the gun won't group at all I don't think it's a problem. You still might send Joe Degrande the pics to see what he has to say.

I already have, so we will see what the current position is. I suspect (but do not know) that if a gun will not shoot 1-1/2" after reasonable effort they will be happy to evaluate an individual gun just as they always have-- but, if there is no performance issue (only internal and cosmetic) then it would not be considered a problem. We will see.
 
Mountain Man said:
IMO, since smokeless is not corrosive and you don't have to clean the barrel with water, there is little or no advantage to stainless barrels on the Savage. The primary benefit on a centerfire is decreased erosion from gases. However, the most rapid erosion occurs at the throat of a centerfire and takes thousands of shots to manifest itself. Since there is no such thing as a throat on a ML barrel, and since the Savage (if loaded with the book loads or the loads generally proposed by the trustworthy sources we all know) operates at much lower pressures than most centerfire rifles. That should mean somewhat lower gaseous velocity, and even if not, less potential for erosion. Combine those two factors with the fact that only a few, and I truely mean a FEW individuals have or will put thousands of rounds through a Savage, the need for increased erosion resistance just is not there. IMO.

Of course I agree which was the impetus for blued / laminate.
 
big6x6 said:
I plan on buying a blued model in the future-SW has experienced what I think as it being more of a trait of the SS barrel than blue

Do ya'll REALLY think the blued version is more accurate?
"while they may or may not effect accuracy- I would think they WOULD contribute to harder loading- " I cant say as far as accurate- I'm happy with the way mine shoot- IF the blue is smoother as some people have said- It may make loading easier -the plus side is I do like the Blue/wood stock look...with an aftermarket Richards sporter stock...HMMM :drool: Just another one for the collection... :D I was sorely tempted to grab a Knight from Randy- but cant make myself want to ML with anything but the Savage now :wink: :d'oh!: Rick
 
After read this I got to wondering so had to go down into my gun room and have a look at mine. It's a pre accu trigger, blued synthetic. After close examination I came to the conclusion it's smoother than a babies backside :D . And it shoots good too :mrgreen:
 
Savage should never let them leave the factory that way. Matter of fact I wonder if Savage has ever let a 10mlII Stainless barrel out of the factory that DIDN"T look that way. I hereby challenge anyone to post a picture of a Savage 10mlII STAINLESS barrel that does not have radial scratch marks. I just don't think they have made any yet and wonder if they are even able too.
 
-- but, if there is no performance issue (only internal and cosmetic) then it would not be considered a problem. We

Randy, Do they consider anything other then a 1.5 moa group when it comes to performance?
What about :
loading ease
rate of fouling buildup
cleaning ease

Also what about the fact that guys who spend over 500 bucks on a muzzleloader expect better? Far better! Cosmetics had better be an issue with them because as you can see by how fast this thread is growing this is an issue with the customers.

And also back on that 1.5 moa standard, that might be what they go by but it is a shame when the rifle will easily outperform that with such crap barrels, why not just GET IT RIGHT and the we will see how good a SS barrel will really shoot.
 
Wouldn't there be a better seal for the sabot skirt in a smoother barrel when fired? Better velocity, more consitency shot to shot as well?

Just a thought...
 
flatland hunter said:
Wouldn't there be a better seal for the sabot skirt in a smoother barrel when fired? Better velocity, more consitency shot to shot as well?

Just a thought...

ABSOLUTELY the point! And yes I do have a Savage 10ML-II synthetic blue scope combo coming... Price was right...$429.00 plus shipping!
 
Rifleman said:
Randy, Do they consider anything other then a 1.5 moa group when it comes to performance?
What about :
loading ease
rate of fouling buildup
cleaning ease

Also what about the fact that guys who spend over 500 bucks on a muzzleloader expect better? Far better! Cosmetics had better be an issue with them because as you can see by how fast this thread is growing this is an issue with the customers.

And also back on that 1.5 moa standard, that might be what they go by but it is a shame when the rifle will easily outperform that with such crap barrels, why not just GET IT RIGHT and the we will see how good a SS barrel will really shoot.

Dwight,

I don't have an answer that will be totally pleasing to everyone, that's one thing I'm sure about! :wink:

The 1-1/2" accuracy promise may NOT be what a target shooter wants-- however, it is a higher standard than any standard production muzzleloader made today. Thompson promises or guarantees nothing; Knight has a 2-1/2" accuracy promise. As a muzzleloading hunting gun, the accuracy is more than most hunters can use on a big game animal in the field.

Compared to some centerfires, it is quite good as well. A Ruger Mini-14 .223 accuracy standard is TWO inches-- @ 50 yards.

As far as loading ease, clean-up ease, fouling-- the Savage 10ML-II is so far ahead of Pyrodex and Triple Seven guns it isn't funny.

The 10ML-II is a costly muzzleloader to make, compared to others as well. The Accu-Trigger is certainly a more costly and better trigger than a generic Bold trigger, much less the majority of muzzleloaders (Omega, Encore, Knight Vision, etc., etc.) that do not have user adjustable triggers at all.

100% proof-testing and function testing of every 10ML-II is done by hand, and also costs money. No other muzzleloading company bothers.

Most can understand that an double pillared action screw plus a recoil lug gun system is more costly than an action held together by a single screw. It is, as is the requisite head spacing. Certified GBQ 4140C and 416SS heat treated barrels are also more costly than the milder steels used in other muzzleloaders-- that sell for as much, or more. The 10ML-II is a relatively costly frontloader to make, no two ways around it.

The 10ML-II barrel is not hand-lapped or polished as you might find in a Lilja, Hart, Kreiger, Schneider match-grade barrel that sells for $400 just for the blank alone, with no machining done to it at all. It is not presented to be a match grade or bench rest barrel. That also comes at a price, a price that few are seemingly willing to pay.

A couple years ago, radial scratches were far more prominent then they are now. Yet, many of these guns shot, and continue to shoot 1 MOA groups-- so, I can't say it is a functional issue at all. Savage has devoted attention to reducing tooling marks in the 10ML-II, and they have improved quite a bit in the SS 10ML-II barrels I've seen, which is far, far more barrels than most folks have had the opportunity to inspect. Nevertheless, some barrels do have cosmetic residual tooling marks.

Suffice it to say that Savage Arms stands firmly behind their product, and will be happy to evaluate any gun that a customer might be concerned about. No way could I call a sub 1.5 MOA hunting muzzleloader "an issue."

This e-mail, sent yesterday, is more the rule than the exception:

"Hi Randy,
I hope you are having a great new year. 2005 was a very bad year for me. On top of a lot of other things, at the beginning of October I broke my neck causing me to miss hunting season for the first time since 1964.
Needless to say, I haven't been shooting since the accident either. I had my "Henry Ball" edition all ready for hunting, having done a lot of shooting during the Summer and early Fall. I had been intending to write you to tell you about the fantastic accuracy I've been getting but did not get around to it until now.
Not only is the Savage the most accurate of any muzzle loader I have shot but it is one of the most accurate rifles I have shot regardless of type. It rivals even my .22/250 heavy varmint rifle at 100- 150 yards. Many groups have consisted of one ragged hole just a bit over 1/2 inch!
I want to thank you for putting me onto this rifle and in particular the "Henry Ball" edition. It has given me many hours of shooting pleasure.

Thanks again,
Joe Frechette
Fenton, IL

The vast majority of muzzleloading enthusiasts out there have never had a better than 1-1/2" muzzleloader out of the box, before they bought a Savage 10ML-II. It is designed and sold as a big game hunting tool, and in those parameters better than 1-1/2"is more accuracy than most hunters can use. I don't know anyone who has claimed missing a deer by 1/4" except for perhaps Maxwell Smart who likely missed them by "that much!

Not a target rifle, already more accurate and more maintenance free than any standard muzzleloading rifle made-- it is hard to fault what it offers compared to every other muzzleloading rifle you can get as a factory item.

But, Savage is constantly looking for ways to improve in areas that are feasible and justifiable, and I have seen the improvement in their fit and finish just over the last couple of years. It remains what Henry Ball wanted it to be all along-- the most effective mass-produced muzzleloading hunting rifle available.
 
Rifleman said:
Savage should never let them leave the factory that way. Matter of fact I wonder if Savage has ever let a 10mlII Stainless barrel out of the factory that DIDN"T look that way. I hereby challenge anyone to post a picture of a Savage 10mlII STAINLESS barrel that does not have radial scratch marks. I just don't think they have made any yet and wonder if they are even able too.

I have one but will have to figure out how to post a pic.
 
Darrel- you're gonna make us guys with scratches feel bad now :poke: it's pretty easy to post a pic- just go to Photobucket on the net and sign up- its free and quick- after that when you go on that site to your account there is an add pictures area- just hit the "browse" button to locate the picture on your computer -click your pic and the picture number appears in the box- hit submit- couple seconds later it goes in -scroll down and you'll see the picture- copy and paste the bottom IMG address to your post leaving a space between the text at either end...thats it....Rick
 
Randy I certainly understand what you are saying and from the gunmakers viewpoint I am sure the radial marks are more of a nuisance then a major issue. I also have not looked down near the amount of these barrels as you have. But here is what I do know. I spent my hard earned money on 3 of these rifles with stainless barrels. All 3 had radial scratch marks in the bore.I don't like them. Due to the "whatever" reason behind the marketing of this gun I have to mailorder them so I cannot inspect them prior to purchase to find one without the marks. I have better things to do with my time then to send rifles back to the manufacturer for something that should have been done right in the first place. Until Savage quits being the ONLY muzzleloader manufacturer who offer this feature of radial scratch marks in the bore of their SS muzzleloaders, I won't be buying anymore of the Stainless.
 
I don't like them either-- but, they have improved quite noticeably. No accuracy deterrent has ever been identified.

I see two reasonable options: cut / recrown a barrel to eliminate the approx. 3/4" length of cosmetic tooling marks for $30. The other, elect for 4140C chrome-moly for the barrel. Neither are exotic approaches.
 
Mountain Man said:
n8dawg6 said:
looks like an ordinary cut-rifled barrel to me. i dont think theres anything wrong with it.

Except that it's NOT a cut rifled barrel. :wink: Savage button rifles their barrels.

And no, I've not seen any other centerfire, rimfire, or muzzleloading barrels, cut or button rifled, with such significant radial tooling marks. My stainless/laminate looks just like that one.

man, this is going to sound pretty harsh, but the first thing i thought about when i saw that barrel was the barrel on my first muzzleloader . . . a CVA. it DID look like that. But i shortly thereafter bought a stainless T/C inline that was button rifled, and it looked a lot smoother.

not trying to denigrate the savage, btw. :)
 
Maybe you guys should shoot some real bullets in those rifles and smooth them out a bit. :wink:
 
Underclocked said:
Maybe you guys should shoot some real bullets in those rifles and smooth them out a bit. :wink:

Why not send them to Greenfield for the marbled crown treatment?
Free Cream of Wheat with that process, agent 2 :idea: :idea: 6?
 
Savage has done something different in the past year or less. .

The last 2 10ML's I got had a tighter bore than my first. Maybe .001 tighter...

Radial marks havent changed tho.....
 
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