Savage barrel tooling marks (Pics)

[Savage Shooter]

Barrels for sabot use do NOT need to be TOO smooth. Too smooth can cause a lot of load development issues. If you do not think so just firelap you one and see!

After firelapping and making a barrel look really good it took me a while to find a load that would ignite consistently and stay accurate even tho it still "felt" tight but smooth loading it.

But I will say that this barrel likes more speed now to shoot ok.

A certain amount of barrel friction against the sabot walls is not a bad thing as long as it is not rough enough to tear sabots.

Unless you are shooting full bore jacketed bullets and have a concern with copper fouling roughness is a moot point.

I have not had much copper fouling shooting saboted bullets!

 

[Anonymous]

Barrels for sabot use do NOT need to be TOO smooth. Too smooth can cause a lot of load development issues. If you do not think so just firelap you one and see!

I was sent a barrel that was J*B'ed to the extreme. The end result, in a nutshell, was a gun that no accuracy change could be detected in-- but, it would not shoot the wide variety of bullet weights that it would before. 300 gr. bullets only, forget any bullet with a short bearing surface.

That is "one incident reporting," to be sure-- but that was the end result. With any attempt at home lapping on a sabot shooting muzzleloader, how do you know when you have "gone too far" until you actually have?

 

[Anonymous]

Wouldn't there be a better seal for the sabot skirt in a smoother barrel when fired? Better velocity, more consitency shot to shot as well?

If we go too far with that, we have re-invented the shotgun. :shock: That's as smooooth as it gets, when all that destructive rifling is out of the way.

As is, I'm getting similar shot-to-shot deviations out of a 10ML-II as I get out of my best trap loads, so it does not appear to be anything meaningful.

Maybe Del has more insight into this? Today's polyethylene sabots are far, far more durable than shotshell wads-- that I believe are polypropylene. They need not hold back more than 12,000 PSI peak, but MMP sabots can hold 50,000 PSI all day long as proved by Western Powders testing and others. Best accuracy is certainly a different matter, but a short MMP sabot has held back up to 50,000 PSI in every single 10ML-II ever made.

 

[black3]

Are the tooling scratches seen only in the Savage muzzleloader stainless barrels, or are they visible in the Savage stainless centerfire barrels as well? I have a stainless ML-II....I guess I need to check the barrel a little closer.

black3

 

[Redclub]

Well I went and looked at my blued barrel and low and behold there were those marks, How can this rifle shoot 300 grain barnes originals,250 SST'S, 250 XTP'S 250 SW, and 348 grain powerbelts over 115 grains of T7
all very accurately. They must be doing something right :wink:
Chuck $429 for a combo,Randy sure gives good deals.
Ken

 

[flatland hunter]

If we go too far with that, we have re-invented the shotgun. :shock: That's as smooooth as it gets, when all that destructive rifling is out of the way.

That is taking it to a bit of the absurd don't you think? :nono:

You have a talent for taking a comment where it was not intended to go! uke: :shock: :lol: :wink:

Rifling is needed as you well know, but when the rifling has been cross cut, many times, it just might disturb or effect the function of the sabot's skirt.

Even if it didn't... who wants to pay $500 and have a chattered up barrel? That is one thing you can say for A&H's barrels, even though extruded with that soft spanish steel, the rifling had smooth lands and grooves.

Most of my SS ML barrels have had some type of tool marks on them... I hope in my Whites that those will smooth out over time because of conical use (I didn't pay $500 for 'em!). There is no effect on their accuracy.

 

[flatland hunter]

Chuck $429 for a combo,Randy sure gives good deals.
Ken

That is a good deal! Especially if all you will shoot out of the Savage is smokeless... Will have to keep that in mind!

 

[Loggy]

You guys got ole Loggy thinking which can be dangerous and certainly rare! :lol:

I dropped a Bore Lite down 5 of my ML Barrels. (1) My HB Savage 10ML-II barrel, (2) Green Mountain Drop-in 50 Cal. 1-28 TC Flinter barrel, (3) TC Pa Hunter 1-66 original TC factory barrel, (4) TC Firestorm Factory 26" 1-48 Flinter barrel and (5) my White Super 91 .504 (1-20 twistin) Wilson barrel. The only reason i selected the above 5 barrels is because i recently had these out of safe for cleanin/shootin and admiring. :lol:

Of the 5 barrels I closely inspected only ONE had identifiable tooling marks similar to ones displayed per this Threads Originator.

 

[big6x6]

Chuck $429 for a combo,Randy sure gives good deals.
Ken

That is a good deal! Especially if all you will shoot out of the Savage is smokeless... Will have to keep that in mind!

I didn't get it from Randy...

 

[Anonymous]

I'm not certain how many tons of hydraulic ram pressure it takes to pull a .50 caliber carbide button through a heat-treated barrel, but it is significant. That's one big button. :shock: