- Joined
- Dec 18, 2023
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 9
Do you think the Savage action that I have is robust enough for a good safety factor?I wouldn’t go .40 - not enough choices in bullets for me. I’d get a .45 barrel - that would allow you to shoot sized bullets or sabots. Another option to consider would be a PacNor .45 for your Savage.
I’m asking about the Savage Axis.Do you think the Savage action that I have is robust enough for a good safety factor?
Yup.If you can hunt with a .40 cal, that is my first choice. Some of the nicest shooting rifles I've built are 40 cals...........................
The Brux barrel and ASG breach plug are providing the safety factor (so to speak). The Axis platform is perfectly acceptable, as the locking lugs do provide a level of additional safety.I’m asking about the Savage Axis.
What would work best with a .40 caliber barrel? Saboted bullets or full bore?If you can hunt with a .40 cal, that is my first choice. Some of the nicest shooting rifles I've built are 40 cals. The action is not necessarily where safety factor comes in, it is the barrel shank and breech plug.
To shoot under 300 yards from a treestand, a bolt gun is probably way over kill. If you were going to build a bolt gun, a Defiance Outcast is the way to go. You could get a new Brux barreled action for about $2000. Stocks and triggers are everywhere and you can always upgrade these down the road easily.
The Brux barrel and ASG breach plug are providing the safety factor (so to speak). The Axis platform is perfectly acceptable, as the locking lugs do provide a level of additional safety.
Thanks. I understand what you're saying now.The Brux barrel and ASG breach plug are providing the safety factor (so to speak). The Axis platform is perfectly acceptable, as the locking lugs do provide a level of additional safety.
Virginia regulations allow 40 caliber or larger, firing a single projectile or sabot (with a .35 caliber or larger projectile). So they would be good to go. That's the only state that I hunt with a muzzleloader.If you can hunt with a .40 cal, that is my first choice. Some of the nicest shooting rifles I've built are 40 cals. The action is not necessarily where safety factor comes in, it is the barrel shank and breech plug.
To shoot under 300 yards from a treestand, a bolt gun is probably way over kill. If you were going to build a bolt gun, a Defiance Outcast is the way to go. You could get a new Brux barreled action for about $2000. Stocks and triggers are everywhere and you can always upgrade these down the road easily.
What would be the disadvantage of using the small shank Savage Axis that I have over a large shank Savage?As stated the Axis platform is acceptable for a smokeless build albeit not the prettiest out there. Same aspects as the Savage 10,12,16 etc. which is a great platform for the DIY er, but I would look for a large shank action. I think you would be hard pressed to get bolt action build to come in less than 8 lbs.
Small shank has a smaller physical diameter than a large shank at the breech end. 1.060 vs 1.120. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it. Stick with the loads suggested by the barrel / breech plug manufacture and you are safe.What would be the disadvantage of using the small shank Savage Axis that I have over a large shank Savage?
I like the idea of the .40 caliber barrel. Which barrel manufactures would you recommend in .40 caliber?Small shank has a smaller physical diameter than a large shank at the breech end. 1.060 vs 1.120. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it. Stick with the loads suggested by the barrel / breech plug manufacture and you are safe.
I'd buy from Arrowhead and be done with it.I like the idea of the .40 caliber barrel. Which barrel manufactures would you recommend in .40 caliber?
What would work best with a .40 caliber barrel? Saboted bullets or full bore?
There's no sabot made for the 40. (357/40).....yet. You have to shoot smooth form (.400 - .408)or full form (.392 - .400) bullets. I would do full form, but that's me.Virginia regulations allow 40 caliber or larger, firing a single projectile or sabot (with a .35 caliber or larger projectile). So they would be good to go. That's the only state that I hunt with a muzzleloader.
Thanks.There's no sabot made for the 40. (357/40).....yet. You have to shoot smooth form (.400 - .408)or full form (.392 - .400) bullets. I would do full form, but that's me.
Do your homework. Read all the info. you can on 40s and 45s.Talk to builders. Ask questions, like you did here, on the other boards, Doug's, Hank's, etc.I’m looking for suggestions about building a new smokeless muzzleloader to replace my Savage ML10-II smokeless muzzleloader. I already have a Savage Axis II XP 7mm-08 with a small shank and a Tikka T3X Lite in 6.5 Creedmoor that I could use as a donor. I’m also considering purchasing a Mac Bros EVO II Stainless Steel Muzzle Loader Action for the build. I’d like to keep the cost (before riflescope) at approximately $1000 to $2000. I will be using the muzzleloader for whitetail hunting from a treestand in Virginia. Longest shots would be 300 yards.
I’m leaning towards using a Arrowhead Brux 45cal Savage Prefit Barrel kit. I have Vihtavuori N110, Vihtavuori N120, & Accurate 5744 powders as well as Barnes Original 300 grain Semi-Soft Point .458 and Parker 300GR Ballistic Extreme bullets.
What do you guys that are experienced in building smokeless muzzleloaders suggest? Should I go with bullets with sabots or full-bore bullets? Are .45 or .40 caliber barrels best? Are Arrowhead brux barrel kits my best bet? Is it OK to use barrel nuts on the barrel or should I go full thread on?
I want 1 moa or better and weight of the muzzleloader before scope of 7-8 pounds.
Thanks in advance for your opinions.
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