TC hawken cracked stock side/lock screw area

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So I circled the original crack in red. I drew approximately how the skewer is oriented through the crack
 
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Going only from the picture I'll offer:

I've fixed many broken stocks. Tang area splits, hand grip areas splits etc etc. Shotguns broken in the grip due to stock bolt loose, drilled on a angle . And they have held up fine.
I would suggest not using AcraGel. Great for bedding. Not for the wood repair IMHO. Use AcraGlass in this case.
In repairing a split like this I would separate the break and clean to bare wood.
Try not to remove exterior wood as to not show the repair.
Line up and drill holes into the broken pieces as to install a (preferably ) brass screw shank . Cut a screw to length to suit.
Screw hole is drilled oversized as to allow acraglass to enter and coat.
Release agent on metal parts.
Assemble it.
Apply acracglass to the area. Clamp and wait. ( follow acraglass instructions )

Now here's the trick of the repair.
Once set up, remove the barrel, lock,tang etc.
Remove wood inside the barrel channel around the broken area, tang,breech face enough to build up with Acra ***
You can drill extra glue holes inside the stock area for added bonding.
Now bed this area. AcraGel is fine for this. Acraglass will work too. ( might get more bubbles though ).
Your after a monolithic bedded recoil area.

Hope this helps.
 
I'm new here on the forum but have been looking at online muzzy websites a lot lately. Would it be worth it to buy a NEW unfinished
stock from TOTW Track of the Wolf and simply refinish it yourself ? Should'nt be too hard, they sell from $136 to $200 it looks like.
 
I'm new here on the forum but have been looking at online muzzy websites a lot lately. Would it be worth it to buy a NEW unfinished
stock from TOTW Track of the Wolf and simply refinish it yourself ? Should'nt be too hard, they sell from $136 to $200 it looks like.

There is a lot to do to finish them. The trickiest part would be drilling the screw hole for the lock. I bought one and took it to a local gunsmith. At that time I just didn't have the time to try to do it before hunting season. The holes for the wedge pins were needing drilled out. The fitting of the lock and barrel.
He took it and next thing I know he calls and tells me that he broke the maple stock. He said he glued it and it would not be ready for my hunt. I never went to get it back.
 
There is a lot to do to finish them. The trickiest part would be drilling the screw hole for the lock. I bought one and took it to a local gunsmith. At that time I just didn't have the time to try to do it before hunting season. The holes for the wedge pins were needing drilled out. The fitting of the lock and barrel.
He took it and next thing I know he calls and tells me that he broke the maple stock. He said he glued it and it would not be ready for my hunt. I never went to get it back.
sounds like you found a "goonshit" instead of a gunsmith
 
Bought a used TC hawken and it had the “hawken crack” (trademark pending), in front of the screw that secures the lock mechanism. I know this is a very common issue. I have tried working glue into the crack and then wrapping surgical tubing around it to squeeze it all together. This failed after the first couple shots. Then I tried drilling a small hole and inserted a small dowel and repeated above gluing process. It held better but is still starting to fail again. Is there something else I can do to fix this or am I just “plugging the leaking dam with my finger”? Should I call it quits for repairs and find a “new” stock? I saw a older post where Lewis made a comment about wishing Boyds made a laminate stock. How great would that be? Also where is a good source to find a replacement? I’ve been mainly using eBay but right now that market is pretty bare. Anyone have one sitting around they want to part ways with?
Hot stuff (crazy glue)will get into a tightly clamped crack /dowled , something to try 1st/Ed
 
brownells sells small diameter threaded brass stock pins. they might work for this application. drill the correct size hole coat the pin with epoxy and drill it down. then cut off the excess and file it smooth.
 
brownells sells small diameter threaded brass stock pins. they might work for this application. drill the correct size hole coat the pin with epoxy and drill it down. then cut off the excess and file it smooth.
Yeah, I fixed it with some long, small diameter stainless machine screws. I drilled a couple holes slightly larger than the screws. Then used a two part epoxy in the hole. Inserted the screws cleaned off the excess. Then wrapped it in surgical tubing to squeeze it together. It seems to be working really well. After dozens of shots with pretty heavy Bullets and loads, it hasn’t shown any signs of cracking
 
sounds like you found a "goonshit" instead of a gunsmith

Yeah no kidding, probably had no wood working experience. he should have paid you for the
cost of the stock. I took an AR rifle to a "gunsmith" to put on a new rail system, called me same
day to come pick it up. Looked at it and the rail had a huge gash, chunk missing out of the rail
on the side. He said he didnt know how it happened. bullcrap.... it was new in the box. I told him
I'm not paying you for this and took my gun and walked out the door. Now I work on my own guns.
Unless I want a new barrel put on or a muzzlebrake made.

I wonder if the old T/C muzzleloader kits had those holes predrilled you speak of. the TOTW stocks
just have minimal routing in the lock area ?
 
If you have a minute look up this YouTube video re Mark Novack gunsmith repairing a heavily damaged stock.
 

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I've seen references from a former TC employee who said there were 8 made as prototypes. I have to say, that short of a custom shop rifle, my lam. is custom level fit of wood to metal. Miles above typical factory level. And the barrel is a "M" stamp. Very accurate too!
I spoke to a fellow who used to work for Fox Ridge ( TC's custom shop) and he'd only ever seen 1 and that was in the " Altar" . TC's museum(?).
I've also seen reference to 2000 made for one of the larger wholesalers. But no confirmation those were ever actually made.Either way, the factory laminates are the rarest TC Hawkens out there..
Autumn is a head turner, that's for sure. Causes a lot of headscratching too! I was once offered a ridiculous return on investment. Couldn't do it though. She's something of a unicorn...
I know its been a while since this thread but i had to chime in,,, I just bought one too!! My walnut stocked renegade has cracked & not shooting to suit me,, now i won't have to worry about that any more,, Its a 50 cal,, & i can't wait to shoot it!
 
So my latest repair has actually been holding with better results. I drilled a hole through the cracked portion of the stock, the exact size of a bamboo skewer I had laying around and then glued a cut length of the skewer into the hole. In asia they use bamboo for scaffolding, the stuff is pretty strong. So now the stress would have to pull the skewer lengthwise to pull the crack apart again. And also worked glue down into the crack as well. I’ve shot the gun probably 20 times and the only issue is a couple small cracks formed around where the skewer is installed. I’ll try to show what I’m talking about in a picture
The best way to do that is drill through the crack run a screw coated with epoxy through it, the screw pulls the two pieces together & the epoxy makes it strong. There are several You tube videos showing how i would bet,, (i know there is one, i watched it) Looks like i'm going to have to do it too, my renegade 54 has cracked which i hear is common.. Thats why i bought the laminated wood stocked hawken.. shouldn't have that problem again..
 
Doesn't look that bad, soak some super glue into the crack in the barrel channel if the crack is still open. Never over tighten your lock screw especially with no barrel mounted in the stock and stay clear of magnum charges and you'll be golden!
 
Doesn't look that bad, soak some super glue into the crack in the barrel channel if the crack is still open. Never over tighten your lock screw especially with no barrel mounted in the stock and stay clear of magnum charges and you'll be golden!
You can also overbore that lock bolt hole, insert a cut to length bit of carbon or aluminum arrow shaft coated with epoxy and then follow up with an epoxy bedding for the tang and first 4 or 5 inches of barrel. Rock solid.
 
You can also overbore that lock bolt hole, insert a cut to length bit of carbon or aluminum arrow shaft coated with epoxy and then follow up with an epoxy bedding for the tang and first 4 or 5 inches of barrel. Rock solid.
Some people will say" Glass bed a ML, such sacrilege. " All my rifles are glass bedded to some degree. The modern cartridge rifles, mostly sporterised Mausers, have full length floated barrels and solid action beds. My TC Hawken, a kit gun, has bedding spots around the tang and barrel wedge. My Savage '06 has an artificial stock and stays shot to shot year to year. I go for one shot kills, always have always will. If a little sacrilege is what it takes then so be it.
DL
 
Some people will say" Glass bed a ML, such sacrilege. " All my rifles are glass bedded to some degree. The modern cartridge rifles, mostly sporterised Mausers, have full length floated barrels and solid action beds. My TC Hawken, a kit gun, has bedding spots around the tang and barrel wedge. My Savage '06 has an artificial stock and stays shot to shot year to year. I go for one shot kills, always have always will. If a little sacrilege is what it takes then so be it.
DL
Absolutely right. If everyone bedded barrels and tangs like Curtis Allison

https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/...ry-target-rifle-from-a-rod-england-kit.34066/
you might not see any benefit to glass bedding. For us mere mortals, it’s a good idea…
 

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