Zeroing with a scope

[Boondoggle]

I picked up an Accura V2 last year a deer/hog hunt on a buddy's lease in north FL. I'm running a Vortex 2-8X32 scope and zeroed it last year at 100 yards with Scopion PT gold's 300gr in front of 3 IMR white hots. I never got it exactly how I would have wanted it but it was minute of deer to a 100 yards which would be the longest shot I'd have. Got stymied but going to try again this fall.

I did a little searching and saw that my twist rate may not be compatible with the 300 grs so I picked up some 270gr Powerbelt Platinums and hit the range today. First cold clean bore shot was almost perfect elevation and about 6" left. Didn't clean it, adjusted for windage and shot again. Elevation held steady but it was about 8" right. Thought I'd run a couple of patches through and realized I left the cleaning jag at home so I was done for the day.

Before my next trip I thought I'd look for some sage advice on how to zero and what kind of accuracy to expect. Should I clean between every shot and let it cool, should I shoot "groups" like with a rifle or just get a good one shot zero and call it a day, etc.

Thanks in advance for all the time and help.

 

[ShawnT]

Welcome to the Forum!

Biggest thing I would suggest is switching to loose powder, much easier to fine tune your load. If you plan to stick with pellets, I would suggest you use 2 pellets not 3. 3 pellet loads don't always shoot that great. Try using just 2. Just because the rifle is rated for 3 don't mean it is what you need to shoot. You will most likely find it even more comfortable to shoot as well, less recoil.

The PT Gold will shoot just fine in the 28 twist. Several here are shooting it and I have shot them myself. If you are only shooting out to 100 yards and want a good bullet that don't break the bank try a Hornady .452dia (45cal) 300gn XTP in a black Crushrib sabot. The Power belts are not really used by many here, just to expensive for what you get. Speer makes a .452 (45cal) 300gn Deep Curl that is also a great bullet but can be a bit harder to find. Buying your bullets and sabots in bulk is much cheaper in the long run that pre-packed stuff.

 

[Boondoggle]

Thanks for the info and the welcome. I hand load for all my rifles but never really thought about load tuning for a muzzleloader. I did see where loose powder generates better accuracy but the pellets are so darn convenient.

How hard is it from making a mess if you have to unload with loose powder? I think I'll try the two pellets change first. I typically run my hand loads as hot as I accurately can but accuracy does trump all.

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[MrTom]

I'll mirror Shawn's comments on the loose powder and bullets/sabots. My Accura v2 loves the green crush rib sabots and a .44 caliber 300 grain XTP.

With that gun I'd suggest investing in the breech plug to allow you to shoot the BH209 powder. Yes, its granular and has to be put in tubes for field use but pellets need to be carried in something in the field too....just something to consider. Lanes tubes are great for this and will also carry the bullets/sabots. When one considers all of the plusses that come with the 209 powder and any little inconveniences in dumping a dry load will be just that...a little inconvenience. The 209 plug and a simple powder measure and you're good to go for shooting a great powder that you can tailor to get superb accuracy from the gun. 90 grains of 209 would be a good starting point but 110 grains with a 300 grain bullet/sabot is maybe the most common hunting/accuracy load for a whole lot of people and a whole lot of different guns, including the one you own.

 

[Boondoggle]

Ok pretty convincing advice. I've got the 209 Breech plug on the way and will pickup powder tomorrow. I think I'll try the scorpions and powebelts I have first and then try some other projectiles if I don't have luck with those.

Thanks for all the time and help

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[BuckDoeHunter]

My son’s Accura likes 110gr BH209 with a Barnes TEZ bullet in a harvester black sabot.

 

[Boondoggle]

Re: RE: Re: Zeroing with a scope

My son’s Accura likes 110gr BH209 with a Barnes TEZ bullet in a harvester black sabot.

Thanks for the load info. Quick question if I may, Blackhorn recommends either CCI or Federal 209 primers. I'm currently using Winchester 209s. Is it worth going with one of the other two?

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[MrTom]

I use the Winchester 209 primers [blue box and not the ml primers] and get zero leakage. I believe the Winchesters are a tad longer than the CCIs and thus seal better, but the CCIs will work too, regular or magnum. I've never done the Feds so can't say about them.

 

[Boondoggle]

Re: RE: Re: Zeroing with a scope

I use the Winchester 209 primers [blue box and not the ml primers] and get zero leakage. I believe the Winchesters are a tad longer than the CCIs and thus seal better, but the CCIs will work too, regular or magnum. I've never done the Feds so can't say about them.

Great info. Thanks!

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[ShawnT]

Dumping a charge of loose powder is not all that bad. As mentioned it is a little more inconvenient than just firing the charge out. You may just need to use a round brush to clean out the threads and then a patch on the round brush.

I too started with Pellets in my first inline but after I had some horrible groups from some that were carried over to the next season, I stopped using them. The Box they came in don't seal so I think they drew some moisture. Loose powder bottles have a seal in the cap so much better. And like Mr Tom said, get a good Volumetric Powder measure, a bottle funnel (Those are cheap) and some tubes such as the Lanes Tubes. You will find it is really not as hard as some think it is and as mentioned you need to carry the pellets in something to the field anyhow.

I too load CF and this is not that. :lol: Lots of CF shoots much better when loaded close to max for the rifle. ML's on the other hand more often that not don't. When reading here you will see that most are shooting 90 to 110gn with 120gn being max. There are a few on here that have some custom stuff that shoot hotter but their rifles are built for it too.

Please keep in mind when reading here about loads, the charges mentioned are by Volume not weight unless the poster specifies his load is weighed. There are conversions for the powder they are using and most try to specify that when posting a load. In other words 100 grains of loose powder (such as BH209) does NOT weigh 100 grains.

If those Win 209 primers are the standard Blue box (shotgun) primers you are good to go. I shoot them too.

If you thought CF was fun, then Welcome to the Most addictive of the shooting sports. These things area a blast! :yeah:

This is one of the more popular Volumetric measures and widely available at big box stores too.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/shootin ... s?slotId=4

This is a bottle funnel for the powder bottle.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/shootin ... s?slotId=7

Lane sells the tubes on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15-New-Black-P ... SwstxVTjl5

 

[ShawnT]

If you have not seen this sticky at the top of the Inline Forum, it has some great info to help.

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9798

 

[Boondoggle]

Re: RE: Re: Zeroing with a scope

Dumping a charge of loose powder is not all that bad. As mentioned it is a little more inconvenient than just firing the charge out. You may just need to use a round brush to clean out the threads and then a patch on the round brush.

I too started with Pellets in my first inline but after I had some horrible groups from some that were carried over to the next season, I stopped using them. The Box they came in don't seal so I think they drew some moisture. Loose powder bottles have a seal in the cap so much better. And like Mr Tom said, get a good Volumetric Powder measure, a bottle funnel (Those are cheap) and some tubes such as the Lanes Tubes. You will find it is really not as hard as some think it is and as mentioned you need to carry the pellets in something to the field anyhow.

I too load CF and this is not that. [emoji38] Lots of CF shoots much better when loaded close to max for the rifle. ML's on the other hand more often that not don't. When reading here you will see that most are shooting 90 to 110gn with 120gn being max. There are a few on here that have some custom stuff that shoot hotter but their rifles are built for it too.

Please keep in mind when reading here about loads, the charges mentioned are by Volume not weight unless the poster specifies his load is weighed. There are conversions for the powder they are using and most try to specify that when posting a load. In other words 100 grains of loose powder (such as BH209) does NOT weigh 100 grains.

If those Win 209 primers are the standard Blue box (shotgun) primers you are good to go. I shoot them too.

If you thought CF was fun, then Welcome to the Most addictive of the shooting sports. These things area a blast! :yeah:

This is one of the more popular Volumetric measures and widely available at big box stores too.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/shootin ... s?slotId=4

This is a bottle funnel for the powder bottle.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/shootin ... s?slotId=7

Lane sells the tubes on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15-New-Black-P ... SwstxVTjl5

Well I have all the appropriate accouterments on the way including the Lanes tubes. I'll admit I'm a little fired up for the possibilities than just being able to hit an eight inch plate at a 100 yards.

What's the realistic expectation for accuracy? Two MOA at a 100?

Thanks again for all the time

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[ShawnT]

The biggest limitation is the shooter! :wink: Like any rifle you just need to find what it likes. Most all the new muzzleloaders will out shoot us. I can't stand it If I can't get mine to shoot at or close to 1 moa. Most days I'm the one holding it back. Lots of us here can get quite particular to the point we rarely hunt with anything but a muzzy! :yeah:

Thanks again for all the time

That's what this forum is all about! We love sharing our sport!

 

[MrTom]

Even shooting Powerbelt bullets you should be able to realize 3 to 5 shot groups of an inch at 100 yards. You'll do ok. Sight the gun to get the feel of the weapon as much as to sight it in. I'm not big on Powerbelt bullets of any sort but I love the XTPs and like you shoot inside the 100 yard arena. Deer just plain drop using the load and bullet I mentioned in my rifles. Three years ago I shot a fairly heavy buck at about 65 yards broadside. When I walked up on him he had lung tissue coming out of and hung up in his nostrils. I was wondering why he did the immediate flop and never so much as twitched. Both lungs and the heart were pretty much just jelly. That was from a .44 cal 300 grain XTP sitting on 77 weighed grains [110 grains by volume] of 209 powder. Any inline capable of burning the 209 powder would give the same results inside the 100 yard mark.

You have a great gun. Go out and get to know it and let us know how things transpire along the way.

 

[Boondoggle]

More great info. When working up a load should I start with a clean barrel between shots or just run a patch through to get most of the residue out of the barrel? Also is it worth chronographing loads if 100-150 yards is my max distance?


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[ShawnT]

For BH Powder..Swab the rifle with something like Alcohol or a very lightly dampened patch with Hoppes or Butches (Same thing you use for CF), follow that with a dry patch (Both sides). Then Fire out 2 or 3 primers and run a dry patch down and up again. This makes sure that the Breach plug is clear and dried out. Now load up and shoot. With BH209 Try not swabbing between shots at first. IF loading is a problem after the first shot you can try just a dry patch, or a very slightly dampened (Not wet, should not be able to wring anything out) patch followed by a dry patch. But most rifles shoot well with no swabbing between shots when shooting BH 209 powder. IF you shoot Loose 777 then you should swab between shots, I use plain old Windex for 777, Pyrodex or Black.

If you do go with BH209 powder, you just clean the rifle with the same solvent you would use for your CF rifles. One thing I do though is remove Breech plug and run a DRY patch all the way though prior to using solvent patches. It will remove all the ash from the powder and make it a bit quicker to clean the bore out.

Chronograph is good for knowing what speed your shooting (nothing wrong with having more info) but not really necessary. I personally don't worry with that till I get a load shooting the way I want, then check it for future reference.