Torque Wrench and alignment rods.

[DeerNut]

Now that I've solved the loctite conundrum, I'm wondering if I should invest some money in an inch/lb torque wrench? What does everybody else do? I can't go to the local gunshop, since I've seen them use a scope to turn the front ring in, they definitely don't use a torque wrench and they just "eye-ball-it" when squaring the reticle. So if I want it done right, I need to do it myself. So, Should I just crank the base screws in as far as possible, or is a torque wrench the way to go?(Burris suggests 22in/lb on the base, 40in/lbs for windage and 24in/lb for ring srews). Do I crank the ring screws in as far as possible, or is that going to crush the scope? The instructions say, "don't over tighten". So what does this mean without a torque wrench? Once I've caused damage (sheared the screw or crushed the scope) its too late. And while I'm on the subject, what about alignment rods like Brownells. Are they necessary. A torque wrench and alignment rods are a lot of money if you only mount one scope every 5 years or so, but so is a mangled $450 scope. Am I just stessing too much?

 

[Grouse]

A Torque wrench is alway's a good idea.

 

[jims]

A good torque wrench gives peace of mind that it is done right. I got a Snap On from ebay for about $35 as I recall. Normally they are higher than that though. This issue was raised once before and a poster said Sears had a resonable wrench especially when on sale.

 

[Anonymous]

Am I just stessing too much?

I believe you are. If you are using the small allen wrenches that come with rings, you can't apply all THAT much torque. Many little wrenches will pop out of the screws if you do.

If you are using a good set of vertical rings, like Warnes-- they really don't put much stress on a scope. There is so much clamping surface, it takes very little on four screws to have adequate grip.

I've never had a scope slip on me yet with good steel rings. With the stamped steel (Weaver) or el cheapo rings I have-- but I quit using those long ago. There are still more than a few folks that think scopes are just handy gun-carrying handles-- but lacking that, there is little issue these days.

 

[DeerNut]

So, if I use the supplied wrench with the Leupold rings and bases, its unlikely I would over torque the screws or crush the scope. Good to know. Thanks guys....I'll stop stressing now.

 

[Rifleman]

I have a set of alignment rods that are excellent for use on Redfield style rings and bases. I use grand slam now and it is a non issue with those.

 

[Super 91]

Am I just stessing too much?

I believe you are. If you are using the small allen wrenches that come with rings, you can't apply all THAT much torque. Many little wrenches will pop out of the screws if you do.

If you are using a good set of vertical rings, like Warnes-- they really don't put much stress on a scope. There is so much clamping surface, it takes very little on four screws to have adequate grip.

I've never had a scope slip on me yet with good steel rings. With the stamped steel (Weaver) or el cheapo rings I have-- but I quit using those long ago. There are still more than a few folks that think scopes are just handy gun-carrying handles-- but lacking that, there is little issue these days.

I would hardily disagree. I tightened a set of Leupold rings down on a Nikon Monarch UCC and readily crushed the tube, using nothing more than the little angled wrench supplied with the rings. I had problems with a brand new Sightron scope. I sent scope and all back to Leupold to see if it was the rings. I left the rings tightened on the scope. I had only used the little angled wrench supplied with the rings, and my two small manos, or otherwise known as "hands". Leupold said I had overtightened the rings nearly half again the recommended torque setting. They said the crushed tube was a result of my vise-like grip on the t-15 wrench. Sightron replaced my blunder with no questions asked, although it was clearly my fault.

So in the meantime, I got the best inch-pound driver I could find. It only cost me $196.00 and has been the best money I have ever spent on a tool for gun/scope assembly. Since then I have set all the screws to the max recomended torque settings, and have yet to have a scope slip or a tube even remotely crushed or dinged.

So I would say it is well worth it to get a torque driver if you do a fair amount of scope mounting and re-mounting. The alignment tool from Brownells is a very good idea if you are using a lot of dual dovetails and such.

 

[Doohan]

I REALLY don't like the Redfield type rings... Hate em actually!

I prefer QD type rings from Warne, esp. Leupold's. HOWEVER the Burris Signature Rings are really getting my attention.. I am starting to think they are the TICKET! Non marring and difficult to overtighten with the inserts.

Anyone else like theBurris Signature Zee Rings?

 

[big6x6]

I have a set of alignment rods that are excellent for use on Redfield style rings and bases.

One of the best FIXED base/ring combos in existance is the Leupold "Dual Dovetail" mounts. Simply excellent in every respect. GREAT on a stiff recoiling rifle. Your scope simply WON'T move!

 

[Anonymous]

[quote="Super 91] I would hardily disagree. I tightened a set of Leupold rings down on a Nikon Monarch UCC and readily crushed the tube, using nothing more than the little angled wrench supplied with the rings. I had problems with a brand new Sightron scope. I sent scope and all back to Leupold to see if it was the rings. [/quote]

Super 91, your supper human strength is not to be toyed with. 8)

I've never crushed a tube, and I've mounted over 70 scopes in the last two years.