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Welcome from SE Michigan.
Def recommend loose powder.
fffg is the same powder as ffg, it’s just smaller grains. So more of it fits in the same volume. Therefore it is slightly more powerful at the same VOLUME. I would shoot what you can find. Doesn’t make that much diff at this point.
For now, do not weigh your powder, just use volume. In the future, if you want to weigh it, go for it, but no need at this point.
I would start at 80 gr (VOLUME) to learn the ropes. It’s cheaper and it kicks less. Once you learned the basics, then shoot 85gr, 90, 95,, 100. Any of those charges will be plenty. I shoot 95 gr for elk. Use the amount which is the most accurate.
Think about the 45-70 rifle. That is 45 cal and 70 gr of powder. That killed lots of Buffalo. More is not always better.
There is a difference between FFF and FF so I would have to disagree. FFF burns faster than FF so it builds barrel pressure faster which gives you better velocity. That's why I use FFF in my 45 cal because it's a lighter bullet. To me any bullets weighing 250gr or less should use FFF no matter if it's a 45 or a 50. Any bullets weighing more than 250gr should be using FF.Def recommend loose powder.
fffg is the same powder as ffg, it’s just smaller grains. So more of it fits in the same volume. Therefore it is slightly more powerful at the same VOLUME. I would shoot what you can find. Doesn’t make that much diff at this point.
For now, do not weigh your powder, just use volume. In the future, if you want to weigh it, go for it, but no need at this point.
I would start at 80 gr (VOLUME) to learn the ropes. It’s cheaper and it kicks less. Once you learned the basics, then shoot 85gr, 90, 95,, 100. Any of those charges will be plenty. I shoot 95 gr for elk. Use the amount which is the most accurate.
Think about the 45-70 rifle. That is 45 cal and 70 gr of powder. That killed lots of Buffalo. More is not always better.
FFFG burnes faster than FFG because of its greater surface area. Think of a log of wood. Split into quarters and it burns. Chop it into tiny pieces and it catches fire quicker and burns faster. It's the same wood or log. It has to do with how much surface area is available. 4 pieces of the log has less surface area than if it was cut up into kindling, just as the whole log has less surface area than the 4 pieces of split wood.There is a difference between FFF and FF so I would have to disagree. FFF burns faster than FF so it builds barrel pressure faster which gives you better velocity.
We are both right. It IS exactly the same powder, but as stated earlier, smaller /granules chips burn faster/hotter.There is a difference between FFF and FF so I would have to disagree. FFF burns faster than FF so it builds barrel pressure faster which gives you better velocity. That's why I use FFF in my 45 cal because it's a lighter bullet. To me any bullets weighing 250gr or less should use FFF no matter if it's a 45 or a 50. Any bullets weighing more than 250gr should be using FF.
The lead still expands or as you said, obturates in the bore. The over the powder wad (OTPW) doesn't prevent that. What it does do, is stop the T7 from burning through patches or melting the plastic wad in the bore. It also protects the lead from deformation at the bullet base.Aren't sabots and hollow base conicals designed to obtruate when the powder is ignited and burns forcing the gasses to seal the open "cup" to the bore enabling all the good things that happen after that?
That's up to you.Maybe we should start a thread on that?
Sabots blow their ability to seal once they get hot, the powder gas will slip on by. Thats why we let barrel cool or you a cooling rod. Don't let sabots sit in the Sun, they get soft n will blow. I have had to learn the hard way n its a pia to clean/scrub plastic out of the groovesdrpatton,
I disagree with your statement He should use an ""Over The Powder Wad." T7 Burns very hot and he may want to shield the projectile from the heat, whether it's a plastic sabot, belted, lead conical or PRB."
Aren't sabots and hollow base conicals designed to obtruate when the powder is ignited and burns forcing the gasses to seal the open "cup" to the bore enabling all the good things that happen after that? If not, why make sabots and hollow base bullets. If one is melting then plastic sabot, I would think too much powder is being used or something else is wrong. Never, ever seen a melted sabot. I have heard in some cases where a wad might be beneficial to a lead hollow base but I don't believe it's the norm.
I just bought some high pressure sabots from knight for my 52 cal. The cups on these things are very thick. I'll see how they perform when I shoot them.Sabots blow their ability to seal once they get hot, the powder gas will slip on by. Thats why we let barrel cool or you a cooling rod. Don't let sabots sit in the Sun, they get soft n will blow. I have had to learn the hard way n its a pia to clean/scrub plastic out of the grooves
Those sabots are SUPER tough. I shot loads well over 50cal load data listed by Western. 325gr FTX and stop when your shoulder tells youI just bought some high pressure sabots from knight for my 52 cal. The cups on these things are very thick. I'll see how they perform when I shoot them.
I'm still around quietly soaking up everything. ThanksWow I haven't seen him here since his original post! I hope he didn't blow himself up.
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