chemical for browning a barrell

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Overdue Bill

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Where can I buy the chemical to brown my barrels?  I've tried google and youtube and just come up with a bunch of unrelated junk.  Thanks!!!
 
Birchwood Casey Plum Brown works well.  I did a TC hawken kit in the 70's and it still is looking good.  This is one of the early kits that had to have the barrel draw filed to smooth it - they may have changed the steel by now.
 
Thanks Russell.  I also did a TC kit in the 70's with the draw filing and all that.  Mine is a Big Bore Mountain rifle.  The browning is a mess plus a few scratches etc.  I just may draw file it again before I brown it.
 
Another option: I've used is Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown & Degreaser on a couple of barrels and I like the result real well.  It's sold at various places, I got mine from Track of the Wolf.

I hang the barrel over the laundry tub and run a little room humidifier next to it.  I  card it off very lightly with 0000 steel wool as I'm rinsing in hot water.  Repeat the application until you get the color you want.
 
There are bunch of browning formulations around ranging from basic to downright nasty (including mercury). Laurel Mountain is about as basic as it gets, and I've had great luck with it.  The only requirements are that you keep the metal warm and humid (I use a plywood box with a 60 watt light in it and a wet towel), and that you NOT rub or card it too much between coats. Over-carding results in a metallic coppery finish.  Note that the first coat and soak of Laurel Mountain may look a little blotchy. Never fear. Keep doing treatments and it will uniform out and look great.
 
BrownBear said:
The only requirements are that you keep the metal warm and humid (I use a plywood box with a 60 watt light in it and a wet towel), and that you NOT rub or card it too much between coats. Over-carding results in a metallic coppery finish.  
Same setup but use an old string of Christmas tree lights for a more even heat throughout the box over the single light bulb. Line the inside of your box with aluminum foil to hold the moisture and put a half dozen soda pop caps in for holding the water. Every part of the box needs to be close to other sections for the best most even color.
 
I've never used anything but Plum Brown and always had good results. I mount my bench vise with a rod of copper clamped at a 45* angle and mount the barrel on that. Then I heat the barrel with either a torch or a heat gun. The torch works faster.

Then I use old Tee-Shirt material and start rubbing on the Browning. Mine always sizzles a little. Just keep this up and then let it rest and see where you are. Once you get this stuff working its sometimes hard to stop. Once I am happy with the color and have it rinsed off and oiled I watch it for a few days to make sure its done. Then I clean off the oil and coat with Johnson's paste wax on a warm barrel. They never rust after that.
 
Hi Buck. Your link doesn't work. But if you are referring to the Copper Rod that was my own idea. I never read any tips from BC and using plum brown. But plum brown has always given me the results I wanted. I just bought a Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifle and the browning on the factory rifle is no better than what I do myself. Heck they may be using BC plum brown themselves. :scratch:
 
Thanks Buck. The link worked this time. Looks like I was doing everything the right way. I must have read the directions on the bottle. :thumbs up:
 
Damn "that's a first, a male read the directions first...". I always hear that from the wife, drives me nuts --- "did you read the directions" ....   :cherry:
 
I read the directions on everything I buy or get even if I have to google them and print them out. As my 7th grade shop teacher like to say, "If all else fails read the instructions".
 

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