Re: Cost of Powder
52Bore said:
Encore50A:
Yep, I like your math. You calculate the same as I, but looks like in this instance I made an error in my last post -sorry about that. I looked at my data /matrix at the beginning of this post and 50gr is the lowest shown, so I did the calculation like yours at 47gr and made an error somewhere. Please feel free to double-check a few of my data/matrix to assure there is not an error.
$0.43 is what I get. Now it's only 34% higher to shoot BH209 in this example. Like jwhill stated, why would anyone shoot more expensive powder if it doesn't mean anything?
Is that $225 for a 5# jug? That doesn't seem like a deal at $45/lb. check that...
Can't figure out why everyone goes down the price road with only BH209? Take the spreadsheet as it is with your particular load (BP or BH) and be happy with your 'cost per load' it was made to make things easy for people on this forum who might not know how (or want) to do all the calculations. Sure as you know $25 is at the upper end of BP as well. Just don't want to continue going back-in-forth down the price of powder road as everyone can get it for different pieces - THAT"S why I made the spreadsheet I posted.
Thanks for double checking.
Well I don't have a dog in the fight anymore on this one, but I will check over math at times :wink: . I'm not shooting BP or BH any more, although I have 4# of BP on the bench which I could and probably should shoot up. I shot BH, lots of it. Thousands of rounds down range with BH out of Encores and Pro Hunters. Price difference didn't mean a thing to me, not at all. I probably could have cast my own bullets and saved a ton of money but, I chose to shoot Barnes and only Barnes, which costs considerably more.
However.....I will admit that the wife doesn't share the same opinion with costs,
at all.
BH has its benefits to some shooters, regardless of its cost, which is why many shooters use it. I liked it as I could set at the bench, shoot 40-60 rounds from my Pro Hunter and never swab the barrel or lose my POI at 100 or 200yds. Just clean out the flash channel every 8 to 10 shots and just keep on shoot'n. Cleaning, just run a couple patches of Hoppe's, dry patches until it came out clean, lubricate barrel and put it into the safe. Hunting....swab out any lubricant, shoot 2 fouling rounds, load it up the day before the season and leave it loaded until the season ended or I harvested. A week of down time between the regular firearm and dedicated muzz, was 200yd practice time. Clean the rifle as described above, then the day before the season, repeat the process. Unless I fell in a creek or hunted in the pouring rain, I never worried about ignition or corrosion and NEVER had any. Since it became available I've hunted with it in some pretty nasty weather, I've NEVER, NOT ONE SINGLE TIME had a FTF or HF. I could leave it loaded during 8 days of hunting, decide to harvest at 200yds, the rifle fired as expected and put a dandy hole completely through a whitetail at 200yds and the deer into the back of my gator or quad. I liked it because with a 150yd zero, it shot 2" high at 100yds and 6.5" low at 200yds. That's basically a hold dead on 200yd rifle/bullet/propellant deer kill'n machine.
I'm shooting T7 now (again) and it appears to be working out just fine.
artyman:
Now......... If I could only get bestill and jwhill to teach me how to shoot out to 500yds accurately like they both do and learn more about the wind, I'd be happy shooter :yeah: