Euro arms Rogers & Spencer .44 revolver

[Underclocked]

I had the pistol given to me in the original box but it was missing the nipple wrench and other accessories. It has never been fired so it should be in good shape. I need help with load information and what the max load is so I can be safe. It is #11 cap, .451 ball, and 3f BP or equivilant. I don't have any of the supplies needed so I am up for suggestions. I have only shot inline muzzleloaders so this is new to me. Thanks.

 

[Muley Hunter]

Try 25gr, and see how you like it. You can go to 30gr if you want to blow more smoke.

Try #10 caps if the #11 are too big.

 

[patocazador]

:Need photo: 

I shoot 20 gr. of 3FG in my Pietta Sheriff's model with a ball. It is surprisingly accurate for a shorty with the hammer notch for a rear sight. It is a brass frame so I don't go overboard.

 

[Spitfire1]

Most of the C&B revolvers are quite happy with a 24gr charge of 3F and a .451 or .454 ball, most guys grease the chamber mouths which will lube the ball and keep fouling soft.

 

[Muley Hunter]

We shot 35 gr in CAS. Big smoke is so much fun. Steel frame will handle as much powder as you can stuff in the chambers.

 

[Spitfire1]

I load my Remington with 40gr and still get the ball in deep enough.

 

[Underclocked]

Here you go Pato

Spitfire- what kind of grease?  After every reloading or just the first time of the day. 

Also would this need a patch or just a lubed wool disc. How much pressure on the charging handle is needed required for accuracy?  Thanks for the super quick replies.

 

[Muley Hunter]

The correct sized ball will leave a nice ring of lead shaved off when you load it. That's more important than loading pressure. If you use a lubed wad you won't have to use grease.

 

[Spitfire1]

I use patch lube , and you apply it every time the gun is reloaded. When using lube over the chambers you don't need a wad and vice versa.
As for the pressure just make sure the ball is seated on the powder , I normally put just enough pressure on the lever till I hear the powder crunch.
Like Pete said , make sure the ball is large enough to shave a ring.

 

[Underclocked]

I just watched a few you tube videos so it makes more sense now plus the info provided by you guys. Looks like I will need to remove the cylinder and use my pin Gage's to see what size of projectile I need to order. Would it be ok to shot a conical style bullet as well as round ball? 
In one of the videos I watched a guy had a small stand for loading which looked like it might make it easier. The same guy also had a speed load system where he removed the cylinder which looked better but I'm sure a lot more money. 
It looks like it can be fun to shoot and could be a good back up gun during muzzleloader season.

 

[patocazador]

You can buy .451 balls. Measure your cylinder chambers' mouths and make sure that they are slightly smaller than .451".
Conicals will work but need to be pure lead too. A rebated base makes loading easier. A squared-off base makes it tough to start the bullet correctly. Usually balls with reduced loads are the most accurate out of a C&B revolver.

 

[Underclocked]

Good info Pato, looks like I will buy some round balls and see what kind of accuracy I get. 
Since I only BH209(I know it won't work) what type of powder do you guys suggest. I have used T7 and pyrodex in the past. I assume that the T7 will not leave a crud ring since it is not ignited with a 209.

 

[patocazador]

I only use 3F black powder so don't know about the other subs.

 

[Muley Hunter]

Accuracy doesn't play into finding the right size ball. Your goal is to find a ball that cuts off a round ring when loading.

T7, Pyro, and BP will work in the gun. BP is more fun.

 

[Underclocked]

Muley- what is your preferred BP?  I don't know what is available locally. If I'm going to order online I want to get the best. How much lead can be shaved? I could just order .458 and be done.

 

[Spitfire1]

.458 might be a tad oversized , try the .454 balls but make sure they're in pure lead. 3F works best and if you can get Swiss that will be the best but any 3F blackpowder will work.

 

[Muley Hunter]

Yes, I agree the .458 will be too big, and too hard to load. I don't have BP available to me either. I had to order online. I was burning a lot of powder at the time, and ordered it by the case. (25lbs) That way i didn't have to pay for shipping, or Hazmat fees.

I always used Swiss, but it's pretty pricey now. It's a really nice powder though. Pyrodex will have less fouling, and you can buy it locally.

 

[Underclocked]

I thought .458 was probably oversized but wasn't sure. I can get the Hornady RB in .454 & .451 and they are pure lead. I can't believe how hard it is to find #11 caps. The local places were out and they aren't even listed on Cabelas website. I will have to check with Carlos. 
Doesn't look like anyone carries real BP either and I can't afford to pay the hazmat fees. I guess when I make my next trip back to Indiana I will have to stop at Grafs since it is basically on the way. 
Thank you guys for your help and advice. My son and wife are even interested in shooting this revolver so that should make it easier to get the supplies I need.

 

[Muley Hunter]

Use Pyrodex until you can get some BP. Pyro will work fine in your gun.

It's like an inline. Any sub will work except BH.

 

[Underclocked]

Muley- will do, I was looking at some other subs but Pyrodex P is the cheapest and should work fine. What is the low side of the powder charge?  My son is only 7 but loves to shoot and if it can get a load he can shot that would be great. If not I will hold onto it with him. The videos I have seen look pretty mild.