Discussion in 'Inline Muzzleloading' started by MrTom, May 8, 2019.
Where on earth can they be gotten. The CVA store has been out for over 6 months.
Before CVA sold the shims, in 2011 went to our local ACE, and purchased a small sheet of 0.005" shim stock and punched out shims using what we used to call a leather punch. I made 4 of them and removed and replaced the firing pin bushing with these shim in place. They worked just like the real ones later sold. A possible option if one cannot purchase them
Check with Eds Gunshop in Vass NC. Carlos no longer works there but they might have some.
Also try calling CVA and just tell them your bushing is not flush. You want the shims ONLY to bring it flush. Dont say anything about blowby or headspacing. They got bent out of shape over that whole ordeal at one time.
I tried using the rubber washers talked about all over the boards to stop the blackening of the primer, but it just melted and caused issues the first time, can you report back why you want to shim, and the success you have resolving that issue when you do shim?
I've put a few hundred shots through my Accura V2 LR and love it, but the inconsistency of whether the primer comes out clean or is covered in soot just bothers the crap out of me.
My suggestion is to use a 2nd rubber O-Ring on the firing pin bushing to bring the bushing absolutely flush with the face of the receiver. No indention or protrusion but flush. Then use this O-Ring in the base of the primer pocket pushed in using a primer. https://www.mcmaster.com/9262k611 Your fired primers should be squeaky clean. When loading the rifle point the action down, insert the primer and close the action with a firm snap. I don't know the size of the firing pin bushing O-Ring but you should be able to find it at Lowe's or Home Depot. JMHO and lots of folks are using the primer pocket O-Ring without any problems and they last 10/20 shots.
"My suggestion is to remove the firing pin assembly and clean the parts and the firing pin housing. Lube the parts and reassemble but make absolutely sure that the firing pin bushing is flush with the receiver face. Not receded or protruding but flush with the receiver. Use the rubber O-Ring in the primer pocket and when loading a primer point the barrel down and close the action with a firm snap. Any blow back from the primer is wasted hot gas that is intended to go through the flame channel and flame hole to ignite the powder charge. For the best powder ignition we want the maximum hot gas from the primer to reach the powder charge. The rubber O-Ring will last for 10/20 shots and you get 100 for about $5."
If your firing pin bushing is receded in the receiver face you may have problems opening the action as the primer will hang.
New to all of this. Recently purchased a Accura MR and am very happy with it and the way it shoots. Is there any type of danger putting a rubber "O" ring in the base of the primer pocket or putting a second "o" ring of the correct size on the firing pin bushing?
If this is such a problem why hasn't CVA addressed this issue in the building process?
[QUOTE="use this O-Ring in the base of the primer pocket pushed in using a primer. https://www.mcmaster.com/9262k611 JMHO and lots of folks are using the primer pocket O-Ring without any problems and they last 10/20 shots."
Do not use Buna-N o-rings for this application. Their operational temperture limit is only 240F. Thats why they don't last. Use Viton. Viton's temperature limit is 480F. Because of the height difference in shotgun primers, when I did this I bought viton o-rings in 3 different sizes.
McMaster Carr 1185N45 1.5 mm Wide, 3.5 mm ID
McMaster Carr 1185N26 1.0 mm Wide, 4.5 mm ID
McMaster Carr 5267T16 1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 006
These are more expensive (about $9.00 for 50).
I don't remember which size worked best for me, I use Cheddite primers.
I have learned a valuable lesson here.
I found a thread earlier to use the Buna-N o rings so that is what I purchased!
The lesson learned is to research and research some more and when you're done, research even more.
I have a lot to learn and I appreciate your input.
How many shots are the viton o-ring good for??
I just received them. Not have had a chance to shoot the CVA MR yet with the O ring installed.
I can tell you that the breech got very dirty during zeroing in.
I used 150 gr Pyrodex with a 250 gr powerbelt aerolite bullet. Groups of three full cleanings between each group.
That was at temperatures between 67 and 77 fahrenheit. Cutting paper at 75 yards.
Temps now reaching 100's (Arizona) so I will have to wait to get up north before I shoot again.
I would be glad to let you know how the O rings do if you are interested.
Also heavily considering change of powder type and amount as well as bullet brand and weight .
Don't want to beat the firearm up and I aint getting any younger.
Suggestions would welcome.
sorry if I bent your ear.
I don't know. I'm still running the first one I put in.
I suggest that you try using 2 pellets of T7 behind a Barnes 250 gr T-EZ bullet. I don't believe that you need the 150 gr powder magnum charge as all it does is give more recoil. JMHO & here is a fired Barnes T-EZ bullet that took a nice buck at about 45/50 yards with 2 pellets of T7.
OK, i will bite; how many shots so far?
I have been leaning towards Barnes but have also looking into Thor bullets. The T-EZ uses a sabat correct?
I am lowering the powder charge to what exactly not sure. Different sized animal different size charge and bullet weight.
Big difference in elk and deer.
I use Barnes 290gr T-EZ with 110gr of Blackhorn 209 for hunting and 80gr of Blackhorn 209 for casual practice. The saboted bullets are obviously ballistically superior to longer range than PowerBelts. However, I have read that the accuracy of sabots suffers in very hot weather (typical Texas summer). So for hot weather or if the game is really close (+/-80 yards?) where ballistic coefficients don't matter, the PowerBelt may be a better choice.
It sounds like for tack driving accuracy loose powder is the choice as well as saboted bullets.
I want to thank you all for your input. A lot of great information to process.
This has been a great sight for an inexperienced muzzleloader like myself.
Triple 7 has a tendency to form a hard crud ring where the base of the bullet seats when standard shotgun primers are used. This can cause a dangerous situation if it prevents seating the bullet firmly on the powder. The primer manufacturers are aware of the issue and some have developed special shotgun primers in response:
CCI Muzzleloading #209 In-Line Primers
Federal Premium Muzzleloading #209 Primers
Remington #209 Muzzleloading Primers
Winchester Triple Seven Muzzleloading #209 Primers
I have two witness marks marked on my ramrod using bright blue tape. First witness mark is the ramrod seated on the QRBP and the second is for the ramrod seated on the bullet & powder charge. I suggest that everyone mark their ramrods so that they can tell immediately if the rifle is loaded properly. JMHO
CVA shim kits are back in stock on the CVA website.
I agree with Travis299. You will probably be happier with less than 150 grains of 777 powder. I used that load for years with 400 gr. bullets for elk. I started flinching. I lowered it to 115 gr. of powder, and the elk can't tell the difference, but I sure can. For deer, every bullet I've used, drops them in their tracks. I like Hornady FPB 350 gr. for deer. If they shoot in your gun, they are deadly.
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