Flash pan powder 3f or 4f?

[wildcat2]

A friend and I were having a debate on flash pan size. Now neither one of us have a lot experience in flintlock shooting, him a hunter only and I have been a member in our local round ball club for only a couple of years , now he said only use 3f for it has a coating on it and make it superior to moister. I was taught to use 4f . Also 3f or 2f for the load?

 

[Fyrstyk]

I have been shooting flint locks for several years now. I use 4F at the range, but for hunting I prefer 3f in the pan. It doesn't attract as much moisture from the air, and it doesn't blow around as much. I cannot tell the difference in ignition speed. I use the 3f for hunting to reduce the amount of gear to carry. 3F for the load and for the pan.

 

[wildcat2]

Thankyou ,good reply.

 

[Bear62]

In the "old days" I'm sure they only carried one kind of powder and loaded and primed with it. I think 4F will give you a bit faster ignition, however I usually hunt with 3F loaded and primed.
A delay or "hang" fire would/ could happen if your pan were dirty or the touch hole clogged and could happen with either 4F or 3F. These guns, (flintlocks) go off not from a "fused" effect between pan and main charge but rather from the heat of the burning powder in the pan going through the touch hole and igniting the main charge. Many people do not understand this and tend to over charge the pan which leads to fouling in the pan and touch hole. If the gun is built correctly, and the touch hole is centered at the top of the pan, it takes very little powder to set it off.
One thing, if you shoot at a match and prime with 3F make sure anyone standing to your right is well out of the way, otherwise they will get a "shower"!

 

[Fyrstyk]

In the "old days" I'm sure they only carried one kind of powder and loaded and primed with it. I think 4F will give you a bit faster ignition, however I usually hunt with 3F loaded and primed.
A delay or "hang" fire would/ could happen if your pan were dirty or the touch hole clogged and could happen with either 4F or 3F. These guns, (flintlocks) go off not from a "fused" effect between pan and main charge but rather from the heat of the burning powder in the pan going through the touch hole and igniting the main charge. Many people do not understand this and tend to over charge the pan which leads to fouling in the pan and touch hole. If the gun is built correctly, and the touch hole is centered at the top of the pan, it takes very little powder to set it off.
One thing, if you shoot at a match and prime with 3F make sure anyone standing to your right is well out of the way, otherwise they will get a "shower"!

You are correct on this issue, but in the "old Days" they did use two different grades of powder in their flintlocks when available. So called "priming powder" and "rifle powder". The records of the Rendezvous caravans indicate that they brought both grades of powder to the mountains.

 

[eekjellander]

A friend and I were having a debate on flash pan size. Now neither one of us have a lot experience in flintlock shooting, him a hunter only and I have been a member in our local round ball club for only a couple of years , now he said only use 3f for it has a coating on it and make it superior to moister. I was taught to use 4f . Also 3f or 2f for the load?

Most folks in the know use what ever the main charge is choice being 2or 3F with no difference in flash time (that the squirrel) would see or me . It is certainly convienent having 1 powder to fool with ! /Ed

 

[Anonym]

Interesting read. I've been playing with my first flinter, which was a salvage of a poorly made rifle. I had always heard that 4f was necessary, but I may play around with 3f and see if she will shoot.

 

[fishdfly]

Both 3F and 4F are coated, 7F or Null B is not coated.

 

[Nit Wit]

4F in dry weather, 3 in wet or muggy weather.
Nit Wit

 

[fishdfly]

I can see where folks only want 1 powder to load and prime with, but I really like my small flat priming horn. Small enough to fit in a shirt pocket.

 

[Bear62]

I can see where folks only want 1 powder to load and prime with, but I really like my small flat priming horn. Small enough to fit in a shirt pocket.

I like the ones I have too and have them attached to all of my flintlock shooting bags as well as a few extras in my shooting box. They can be made from anything and aren't complicated.

 

[rhbc13]

I've been hunting with my flintlock for many years, I use 2F in the barrel and 4F in the pan. I used to use 3F for the pan but went to 4F and it's just my opinion , but I think it ignites easier. Just seems like it doesn't take as much spark from my flint. Also as Bear62 said DOESN'T take much in the pan, actually the less the better. When hunting I do check and change my pan powder often. Short story, when I started hunting with a flintlock I had a TC Hawken 50 cal., had a shot at some deer, had no spark, had no fire, deer run off. Unknowing I adjusted my flint and checked it with NO powder in the pan, it sparked good and one of those sparks rolled in the nipple and the gun went off. The good lord was with me as gun was pointed away and nobody was around. Lesson learned ALWAYS remove the lock to check your flint when you have a charge in the barrel !!

 

[fishdfly]

Others have reported the same thing, so it's not as rare as folks think.

 

[wildcat2]

Thanks fellows, my friend did ask me about poll results, will pass it on to him. And I did learn from a very experienced shooter at one of our rendezvous, that there is more to sure fire then just the powder, like the flint itself, flint position, frizzen quality.