Inline and cant get the bolt to unscrew

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animater9

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I have a knight inline and have been watching vids from knight on how to break my stuff, and for some reason I can't get the bolt apart to inspect the pin?
I am new and know NOTHING YET! Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have a message in to knight but haven't heard a peep
 
Send sabotloader a PM. He is a Knight whiz and actually has a picture explanation he can send you.
 
did you screw the secondary safety all the way in?
Yes sir I did. I actually watched many videos on the rifle and what to do. I am hoping that someone like you will give me the advise needed. Thank you. I'm here to listen so of you have any further thoughts I'm listening!
 
I did the same to my new Knight Super Disc. First their instruction is so fast you have to replay a couple of times. Then it doesnt work. The bolt they use is not the same as on our guns. Im short on time right now but Ill send you a few pics on tomorrow on how I did mine.
 
I did the same to my new Knight Super Disc. First their instruction is so fast you have to replay a couple of times. Then it doesnt work. The bolt they use is not the same as on our guns. Im short on time right now but Ill send you a few pics on tomorrow on how I did mine.
Thank you, I was told that is what I have, and you Correct it isn't the same bolt. I did look at the videos a couple of times, nothing. Lol
 
If yours is the older disc rifle this might help.
To get the bolt apart (remove the hammer assembly from the bolt handle and housing) you will a 'C' tool as Busta suggested or properly insert a 7/16" open end wrench under the Secondary Safety of the bolt. The opening in the wrench 'does' need to be oriented in the right place to allow the Secondary Safety the ability to pull the hammer assembly back.

This picture might help some.

Wrench_tool_2.jpg



These pictures should help you orient the hammer assembly back into the bolt housing.

BoltAlignment.jpg


BoltAlignment2.jpg


At some point you probably are going to want to change the bolt housing to the newer bolt housing that will allow you to use either the Red Plastic Jackets (FPJ) and 209 primer for ignition or the bare primer ignition (NFPJ) system. The problem will be finding a the newer bolt housing.

This picture shows the two different bolts... The bolt on top is a newer bolt for using either the FPJ or the NFPJ system. The upper bolt is pictured with a primer adapter installed for the bare primer ignition. The bolt on the bottom is the older Knight bolt for the Orange plastic jacket ignition

P1010006.jpg


The rifle should/can shoot both sabots and conicals, but since you are in Colorado you are required to use full bore conicals. There are a few options available to you.

The one that I use here in Idaho is the Bull Shop .503x460NexMT lead conical

460grBullShop.jpg


Sure hope some of this information helps...
 

Thank you very much for this video. Unfortunately (I don't care what it looks like), mine doesn't know that it is suppose to turn.
This weapon, I was told by knight, was built in 1997 one of the first made. I wonder by the way it looks if it wasn't taken out shot the crap out of it and then sold it (I purchased all 3 at an auction). I have less crap in my yard then this had.
I'm one of those people that if I can't take it apart and clean it and put it back together again, I don't have any reason to fire it. I keep my stuff ready in case of emergencies. I have heard many people say (on AR's especially), that you do t need to do anything but wipe them down and go. I want my stuff clean so if the time comes I can go on without worries.
 
If yours is the older disc rifle this might help.
This is why I Love this group! I can't find any place to put the C tool? My 2nd safety when screwd all the way out had a red stripe around the threads but I can't find the notches for the wrench? I'll do it again it has to be their.
I will get ahold of knight again (I talked to the top person yesterday) (very good person), and see if it's possible to get the new bolt. I still need to fix this one so in the future I will know what is going on (I'm stupid that way).
Thank you VERY MUCH!!! I will (with yours and everyone else's help) figure it out. Before I do upgrades.
You ALL are a GREAT bunch of people. I'm glad I found this group!!!

Many THANKS!!!
I WILL KEEP YOU ALL POSTED (even if you don't want to know)!
 
Im very disappointed with the Knight video. Very disappointed. They have to know that video doesn't apply to all bolts. So why not say so. I looked and looked at my bolt and wondered why am I that stupid. Im babysitting the grandchildren away from home today so Ill get to this tomorrow.. I dont know what a C tool is but by the name it describes how I did mine.

Basically you need a spacer between the secondary safety (the nut on the very end of the firing pin at the shooters end) and the bolt. That must be what the C tool is. You have a C tool in the house. Once I show you you'll have it. Sorry I cant help you sooner.
 
Animater, can you post some pics of your bolt from different angles around the top. I had issues with an early bolt assy also and Sabotloader (Mike) and MichiganMuzzy helped me out. I used a 7/16 open end wrench instead of a C Tool but if the wrench is too thick it caused problems.
 
Animater, can you post some pics of your bolt from different angles around the top. I had issues with an early bolt assy also and Sabotloader (Mike) and MichiganMuzzy helped me out. I used a 7/16 open end wrench instead of a C Tool but if the wrench is too thick it caused problems.
I will get more pics today. I Appreciate everyone's help. It would be easier if I knew what I was doing with ML's, but next time I will. Can't wait til I can answer questions for other newbies!
 
This is why I Love this group! I can't find any place to put the C tool? My 2nd safety when screwd all the way out had a red stripe around the threads but I can't find the notches for the wrench? I'll do it again it has to be their.
I will get ahold of knight again (I talked to the top person yesterday) (very good person), and see if it's possible to get the new bolt. I still need to fix this one so in the future I will know what is going on (I'm stupid that way).
Thank you VERY MUCH!!! I will (with yours and everyone else's help) figure it out. Before I do upgrades.
You ALL are a GREAT bunch of people. I'm glad I found this group!!!

Many THANKS!!!
I WILL KEEP YOU ALL POSTED (even if you don't want to know)!

You won't "find" a place for the C-tool that has traditional flats - (or an open end wrench) - the C tool goes under the screwed-out secondary safety, and just around the firing pin shaft.

When the Knight bolt is "out of battery" and out of the rifle - the firing pin assembly rests in a shallow notch on the bolt shroud, that keeps it from moving while it's out of the rifle.

If you turn the rear firing pin assembly to the left (looking from the back of the bolt), the firing pin assembly will drop into the notch to the left of it. If the secondary safety is full down on older Knight bolts, it will only drop a small distance, but not fully to the bottom of the notch. You have to pull it back for the first 1-3 turns of disassembly.

All the C-tool does is provide a flat for the screw safety to contact with, and the back side of the firing pin.

When you screw the secondary safety down to cover the red shaft, it "lifts" the firing pin assembly off of the notch that holds it on the bolt housing. This should then allow you to screw the firing pin assembly (with the C-tool, or wrench) from the bolt housing.Screwing the safety down enough to "lift" the firing pin can be a difficult, but it should go.

If you've ever worked on a Remington 700 bolt - the bolt requires a tool to hold firing pin assembly back so you can unscrew it from the bolt shroud. Overwise, the firing pin assembly drops forward into the firing position cut into the bolt shroud on the left of where it rests, and it's PITA to pull it back to unscrew the assembly.

Later Knight bolts don't have the same problem, the secondary safety pulls the firing assembly back enough to lift the assembly off of the notch, and unscrew the firing pin.
 
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You won't "find" a place for the C-tool that has flats - (or an open end wrench) - the C tool goes under the screwed-out safety around the firing pin shaft.

All the C-tool does is provide a flat for the screw safety to contact with.

When you screw the safety down to cover the red shaft, it "lifts" the firing pin assembly off of the notch that holds it on the bolt housing. This should then allow you to screw the firing pin assembly (with the C-tool, or wrench) from the bolt housing.
100% right on.
You can use anything that will fit in between them. I once just wrapped a piece of coat hanger around it and tightened the knob down on that. Could be a skinny old 7/16” wrench, a screw driver, a couple of cut open washers… whatever. First time you get it apart you’ll think, ‘well thats dumb’
 

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