Lead temp in Lee bottom pour>

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
69
Reaction score
60
I know I should use a thermometer, but that's not possible right now, my question is the numbers on the knob are not temp no. but do they generally correspond to a temp?
 
I have mine set between 6 and 7 and when 3/4 full gets me around 700-750°f. I use an infrared temp gun and a lead thermometer to check temps. They may vary from pot to pot tho.
 
I have a Lee Pot (Not Bottom Pour Spout) set between 7 and 8 to get my temperature between 750-800 degrees. I use a Lyman Lead thermometer to check temps. I use to have the temp between 700-750 but at the slightly higher temperature and keeping my mold slightly inserted into the melted lead for about 7 minutes I get more consistent better fill-outs and bullets come out weighing about .5 of a grain difference. Thanks, Lew, aka Idaholewis for showing how you cast bullets. It does make a difference in quality!
 
Last edited:
These Lee Pots are all a slight bit different, I have 3 of them, They all run fairly close on the Dial, Also i am running a Pot for each Alloy, instead of Emptying a Pot and Switching Alloys. I have a Pot for PURE Lead, 1-20 Alloy, and Lyman #2

I just ran down and looked, My Dials are between 6 & 7

A lead thermometer is the only way to know for sure what your Temps are :lewis: That said, you could Start with your Dial at 6, Cast some, then try it at 6.5 and Cast some more, With PURE lead you will likely be just under 7, If your Pot is anything like my 3
 
These Lee Pots are all a slight bit different, I have 3 of them, They all run fairly close on the Dial, Also i am running a Pot for each Alloy, instead of Emptying a Pot and Switching Alloys. I have a Pot for PURE Lead, 1-20 Alloy, and Lyman #2

What do you cast and shoot with the Lyman #2?
 
What do you cast and shoot with the Lyman #2?

My .308 Centerfire, Both Grease Groove & Paper Patch :lewis:

NOE 30 XCB
tGHoICU.jpg


NOE Copy of the NRA Paper Patch Bullet
GveeapD.jpg

YeuOYDZ.jpg

EZ3D6j9.jpg

iBN6ERp.jpg
tU1zrpW.jpg
 
I did with some homemade checks about 20 years ago, I don't remember any significant improvement. Here are some Goulds from then, you can see the old lube falling off.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20201221_061126_burst_02.jpg
    IMG_20201221_061126_burst_02.jpg
    38.9 KB · Views: 15
I just finish a little casting session. Some 45-340i and some 45 200grn from a cheap old Lee mold, a knockoff of the Kaido bullet i think. My favorite bullets in my ruger old army. I used to cast between 6-7 in my lee bottom pour. I decided to crank up to just about 7-1/2 and got really good results. Cant get at my thermometer, its at work. I also stopped using a piece of wood to knock open the sprue plate and just use welding gloved hands like IdahoLewis. Quicker and easier on those aluminum molds. Took a little bit to find the rhythm(?) But 30 pistol bullets and 15 for my Accura will keep me busy shooting for a day. The lee mold is supposed to be .452 but they drop at .455 so they are almost perfect to use as cast in the ruger. Also the 12ga slugs ive turn out of a lee key slug mold are better than any factory slugs ive ever bought. Lewis thx for all the tips and advice 👍
16094545789698117325411709830198.jpg1609454619373755329503216544123.jpg
16094553848842274880266149799989.jpg
 
Ive gotten so much good advice i on here i feel like i should add something. The number one most useful piece of equipment on my workbench is this articulating light/magnifying glass. It has been a lifechanger for me. Bought it at a pawnshop.
16094566463466411167380561438836.jpg
I make no apologies for being a slob.
 
Ive gotten so much good advice i on here i feel like i should add something. The number one most useful piece of equipment on my workbench is this articulating light/magnifying glass. It has been a lifechanger for me. Bought it at a pawnshop.
View attachment 12023
I make no apologies for being a slob.
Sometimes my shop looks like that... then I get worked up about it and clean down to the floorboards. In the middle of a project? All bets are off!
 
I just finish a little casting session. Some 45-340i and some 45 200grn from a cheap old Lee mold, a knockoff of the Kaido bullet i think. My favorite bullets in my ruger old army. I used to cast between 6-7 in my lee bottom pour. I decided to crank up to just about 7-1/2 and got really good results. Cant get at my thermometer, its at work. I also stopped using a piece of wood to knock open the sprue plate and just use welding gloved hands like IdahoLewis. Quicker and easier on those aluminum molds. Took a little bit to find the rhythm(?) But 30 pistol bullets and 15 for my Accura will keep me busy shooting for a day. The lee mold is supposed to be .452 but they drop at .455 so they are almost perfect to use as cast in the ruger. Also the 12ga slugs ive turn out of a lee key slug mold are better than any factory slugs ive ever bought. Lewis thx for all the tips and advice 👍
View attachment 12020View attachment 12021
View attachment 12022

You are very welcome my friend! Your Bullets look Great :lewis:
 
All nice looking Boolitz shown above.

I have 2 LEE pots, both bottom poor. my newest one is a 220V 20 lbs model and temps run very consistant.

IMHO, To truly get good temp control, you will need to go to a PID for temp control. As you all know the LEE thermostat is in the mounting tower under the knob and depends on radiant heat from the pot to the tower to adjust pot temp. any airflow threw this area will cause higher temps with stock set up.

I do use a PID on my Littleton Shot Maker and under my Star sizer. My older LEE pot was also PID controlled.

Happy New Year, Enjoy the Show that is coming,
Laus Deo,

Ken
 
All nice looking Boolitz shown above.

I have 2 LEE pots, both bottom poor. my newest one is a 220V 20 lbs model and temps run very consistant.

IMHO, To truly get good temp control, you will need to go to a PID for temp control. As you all know the LEE thermostat is in the mounting tower under the knob and depends on radiant heat from the pot to the tower to adjust pot temp. any airflow threw this area will cause higher temps with stock set up.

I do use a PID on my Littleton Shot Maker and under my Star sizer. My older LEE pot was also PID controlled.

Happy New Year, Enjoy the Show that is coming,
Laus Deo,

Ken
How did you set up the PID? I’ve looked at a few self contained PID’s on eBay... and I’m a bit confused about how the thermostat is bypassed/eliminated.
 
Building, learning how to build/assemble/gather the needed Stuff to utilize a PID for temp control.

There is/are several very good threads on a different forum as this on building/assembling these, there may even be on this site:

How I wired a PID to control temperature

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?115724-Project-PID-on-Lee-Pro-4-20-furnace
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?71208-Dual-PID-Temperature-Controller
You might even do a, search engine search of " how to wire a PID for 30A use " that will find you multiple results. " (About 4,110,000 results (0.56 seconds) " that are loaded with videos and links to how to. This thingy called the internet is/can be one of the greatest education tools ever available.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+to+wire+a+PID+for+30A+use

IMHO, If you are going to build/assemble a PID unit, I am of the opinion, that it is best for one to learn about them so that he has an understanding of what he is building and why/how it works. Then if there is an issue, the builder is able to trouble shoot it and get it running to the builders expectations.

On the three I have done/assembled, I used a separate box to house the PID, a 30 relay, K thermo coupler connections, a fuse, on/off switch, separate power cord. with my chosen connectors so I could use any one of the units on multiple heating devices. The solid state relays are/were all about the the same price so I as the builder of mine chose the 30A SS relay for the most for the buck spent.

The Boxes I used to asseble mine were all repurposed from old, RC Hobbie battery chargers that I for some reason had saved In a labeled box up on a shelf in my shop.

Ken
 
Regardless the color of your casting Pot that you use to cast Boolitz. If a PID is built and utilized, it becomes the power supply for the heating element in what ever device you want accurate temp control of. The existing thermostate of the unit you wish to use the PID on, is unhooked from the element and the relay of your newly acquired/built PID assembly is connected to the heating element. The PID now accurately controls the temp via a K style Thermo coupler.
 
How did you set up the PID? I’ve looked at a few self contained PID’s on eBay... and I’m a bit confused about how the thermostat is bypassed/eliminated.
You plug the melting pot cord into the output of the PID controller. Plug in the PID controller and set the temperature desired on the PID. Leave the pot thermostat turned all the way up, Hi, in the case of a Lee pot so it will heat up to temperature quickly.
The PID will monitor the temp constantly through the thermocouple. When the set point is reached it will maintain the temperature you set by switching the heating element on and off rapidly. The PID will control the temp until the lead is below the thermocouple probe.
 
Last edited:
How did you set up the PID? I’ve looked at a few self contained PID’s on eBay... and I’m a bit confused about how the thermostat is bypassed/eliminated.
You plug the melting pot cord into the output of the PID controller. Plug in the PID controller and set the temperature desired on the PID. Leave the pot thermostat turned all the way up, Hi, in the case of a Lee pot so it will heat up to temperature quickly.
The PID will monitor the temp constantly through the thermocouple. When the set point is reached it will maintain the temperature you set by switching the heating element on and off rapidly. The PID will control the temp until the lead is below the thermocouple probe.
Perfect... I’m a simple minded person, this will work. Thank you.
 
Perfect... I’m a simple minded person, this will work. Thank you.
You are welcome. I built a PID controller after watching a video on Johnny's reloading bench YouTube channel. It was fun and I really like how much easier it is to just cast without worrying about temperature swings.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top