More Knight Peregrine Problems

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

Okay, I shot my new Peregrine for the first time today (12 shots total, 4 ELR to get roughly sighted in and then 8 sized Fury's with BH209 and Fed 209A - hottest load was 90 gr by weight). The sized bullets fall down the barrel for the first 12 or so inches before meeting some resistance. This is odd, I know, but apparently normal for the Peregrine.

I have two main concerns so far. My first concern is about the breech plug leakage I am seeing. There is definitely leakage happening on the sealing face and around to the outside and down into the threads. I used white teflon tape wrapped around the BP twice, folded over the face, added the copper washer, and then wrapped around the washer twice, and then folded over the face of the washer. But still got significant leaking. What am I doing wrong here? I don't remember this issue with my Knight Disc. Try a thicker tape?

Secondly, the copper washer has welded itself to the barrel. I cannot get it to release. The breech plug came out just fine, but the copper washer is stuck as stuck gets. Any ideas?

So far this gun has been quite the headache.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

This is a pic after I scrubbed it as well as I could. You can see that the gas leaked all the way back to about the 8th thread.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

I should add that every primer was perfectly clean. Head space is good at least.

 

[MrTom]

Try the yellow gas line tape on that plug.

 

[jsteurrys]

I use Blue Monster PTFE tape on the breechplug threads. Did you use the copper washer to tighten up the headspace and/or an attempt to create a face seal?

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

I use Blue Monster PTFE tape on the breechplug threads. Did you use the copper washer to tighten up the headspace and/or an attempt to create a face seal?

The copper washer comes included with the Peregrine. I assumed it was their (Knight's) solution to creating a seal, but maybe it was their heads pace solution also. I think it may be creating more problems than it is fixing because now there are two surfaces where gases can potentially leak through instead of just one.

The OD of the end of the breech plug as well as the OD of the copper washer is only about .615, but the ID of the receiver is much larger (estimating .640 minimum). While i was cleaning the gun and getting it ready to shoot, I could remove the washer without any issues at all, but after actually firing rounds through it, it looks like the copper washer has expanded and locked itself tightly into the ID of the receiver. I can't imagine that it would be designed to stay in the receiver. It creates a place for corrosion to occur.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

Here it is shown in their manual ( with no real explanation of how it's supposed to function or if it is meant to be tightened extra hard etc.). Sorry for the blurry screen shot. The washer is item 12. Knight's manual is pretty poorly done.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

One of the things I noticed when I was cleaning the rifle prior to shooting it was that the mating face of the receiver (the rear of the barrel) seemed really rough. It didn't look like a smooth, machined surface. There were some pits and bumps etc. In fact I was concerned that the washer wouldn't seal the same way twice as a result of these imperfections.

 

[michiganmuzzy]

One of the things I noticed when I was cleaning the rifle prior to shooting it was that the mating face of the receiver (the rear of the barrel) seemed really rough. It didn't look like a smooth, machined surface. There were some pits and bumps etc. In fact I was concerned that the washer wouldn't seal the same way twice as a result of these imperfections.

Could be the poor machining caused the copper to seize in place. Generally dissimilar metals won’t seize together easily. I believe that the copper washer would have sealed that rough surface better without the tape. Copper is often used as a gasketing material between harder metals where very high pressures are involved(hydraulic systems, combustion chambers…) I might have fired it a couple times ‘by the book’, before wrapping in teflon tape, to make certain everything works as it should. As it is now, tho, i think you should ask to send it back.
I’m 100% certain that the copper washer can be removed without damaging the barrel or the sealing surface. A bit of heat directly on the washer will soften it right up, and be nowhere near hot enough to harm the steel barrel. Use a butane micro-torch.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

Could be the poor machining caused the copper to seize in place. Generally dissimilar metals won’t seize together easily. I believe that the copper washer would have sealed that rough surface better without the tape. Copper is often used as a gasketing material between harder metals where very high pressures are involved(hydraulic systems, combustion chambers…) I might have fired it a couple times ‘by the book’, before wrapping in teflon tape, to make certain everything works as it should. As it is now, tho, i think you should ask to send it back.

That's what frustrates me about Knight. If it was critical for the mating surfaces to be kept free of any lubricant (oil, grease, teflon, etc.), you would think that they would want to have that in their manual. Instead, there is absolutely no mention made about the crush washer with the exception of the parts diagram.

 

[michiganmuzzy]

Being such a new product, it may be possible that the legal dept. left that bit out of the manual? When you get hold of Knight I’m sure they will make it right. They’ve always had very good customer service. Do they have any comment about just how tight to crank down the breech plug?

 

[white eagle]

that is because of what you are doing
this isn't a cva product I see no need for any tape of any kind
never a leak in mine no tape either
the washer is supposed to fuse so it doesn't need to come out

 

[michiganmuzzy]

I don’t believe lube oil, grease or teflon grease would affect the sealing of a copper washer on steel. Teflon tape, being more solid, may be a different story.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

Being such a new product, it may be possible that the legal dept. left that bit out of the manual? When you get hold of Knight I’m sure they will make it right. They’ve always had very good customer service. Do they have any comment about just how tight to crank down the breech plug?

Nothing specific. The instructions for the Peregrine are lumped together with the Mountaineer and UL. Those rifles don't come with washers.

Also, you almost need the tape to keep the washer centered during installation. Otherwise it could end up way off centered.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

that is because of what you are doing
this isn't a cva product I see no need for any tape of any kind
never a leak in mine no tape either
the washer is supposed to fuse so it doesn't need to come out

This is another thing that frustrates the crap out of me. If it is supposed to become a permanent part of the barrel, then why don't they state that? I spent a couple hours yesterday trying to pop it out of there. Hopefully I didn't screw it up in the process.

 

[white eagle]

you put a dab of grease on the washer to hold it initially then it stays in place on its own
put grease on the threads of breech plug so it doesn't seize and shoot
never a leak of any kind except out of the end of the barrel when the bullet comes out
ya don't need to over think this

 

[michiganmuzzy]

In the manual Knight calls it a “copper crush washer”. In mechanical work a crush washer must be replaced every time it’s loosened up. idk if that applies here, Definitely ask about it.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

In the manual Knight calls it a “copper crush washer”. In mechanical work a crush washer must be replaced every time it’s loosened up. idk if that applies here, Definitely ask about it.

Yes, I had the same thought.

 

[Cedarmtnqlguy]

Also, It still doesn't explain why I am getting so much leaking onto the threads. I can imagine a couple of layers of white teflon tape could be the difference maker here.

 

[MrTom]

Are you or have you been using anti-seize on the threads? All of my CVA inlines seal without anti-seize or the tape. I use anti-seize on my Patriot because I shoot smokeless and have more pressure to deal with and don't have any blowback issues whatever, but if the instructions call for the copper gasket then use it and just leave it in place and use some anti-seize on the threads. And realize that this gasket may take several rounds of shots to do what you're trying to achieve.

One thing I have learned over several years of this great sport is that the more advanced the gun is, the more time and shooting it takes for things to come together. If nothing else, order a new copper seal and start at step one and do things in order again leaving the seal in place. And use anti-seize. I only mentioned the teflon tape as a sort of last resort.