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Thanks for info. My mold throws around 445. I'm using the 50-465, but I had a small hollow base pin put in by Erik at hollowpointmold. Actually have 2 of same mold with different size hollows. I did get 10 lbs of 1/40 from roto metals that I am going to experiment with. I do have 1 50 LRH for the TC Hawkens. I am shooting 67.5 by wt Black MZ. That is close to 80vol. This load yields all the recoil I can stand.
 
Thank you for the great post. I'm wondering how important it is to use Swiss powder. Is it noticeably beeter than Goex or 777. I've used 777 with fair results in the past, and I like the extra velocity it gives. But I'm convinced that heavy bullets with high sectional density are the key on elk, and have read that velocity doesn' matter as much with them. In my retirement, I'm trying to save some money, so I'm starting to cast my own bullets. I generally get 200 to 250 yard shots, and would love to hear your views on a good elk bullet/load at that range. I've got .45 calibers with 1:20 twist and 1:28, and a .50 with 1:26. Also, I'd be interested in your opinion on barrel lengths. Mine range from 20" to 30". Thanks for your help.
 
Thank you for the great post. I'm wondering how important it is to use Swiss powder. Is it noticeably beeter than Goex or 777. I've used 777 with fair results in the past, and I like the extra velocity it gives. But I'm convinced that heavy bullets with high sectional density are the key on elk, and have read that velocity doesn' matter as much with them. In my retirement, I'm trying to save some money, so I'm starting to cast my own bullets. I generally get 200 to 250 yard shots, and would love to hear your views on a good elk bullet/load at that range. I've got .45 calibers with 1:20 twist and 1:28, and a .50 with 1:26. Also, I'd be interested in your opinion on barrel lengths. Mine range from 20" to 30". Thanks for your help.

I believe Swiss to be a Very important part of getting the Most out of your Rifle, I recently tried Goex Ole Eyensford against Swiss with a PROVEN load, The Olde E shot HORRIBLE, Swiss cut Bullet holes! As for Triple 7, I have only used it 1 time, Accuracy was great with it (Horrible Nasty Crud Ring Though!) Triple 7 requires a Hotter Spark to reliably ignite it, this is my understanding from Guy’s on here that Know, and understand the Powder. The Nipple Flash Hole should be around .033, I use Treso/Ampco nipples 4-5 bucks a piece, they have a tiny .028 Flash Hole, They are the Most Durable nipple i have ever used (Besides Platinum lined at 60 bucks a piece :eek:) But these Treso’s would require Drilling out to .033 in order to get Reliable ignition, One must be REALLY Careful here and NOT open them up to much or you create a Dangerous situation! As long as you understand the Requirements of Triple 7 I believe accuracy is there, But again i have only shot it 1 time.
If you want a Powder that is RELIABLE, Is NOT finicky, and is EXTREMELY Accurate, Swiss is in a Class of it’s own! Look up Scores from Top Rank World Class Shooters and See what is Winning? You will find Swiss at the TOP! These guy’s could no doubt afford to Shoot any powder out there, There is a Reason they shoot Swiss, It WINS!!

As for a Heavy Bullet and Velocity, Big Lead around 1350-1400 FPS is DEVASTATING on Big Game Such as Elk!! I don’t do much Chronograph Work, I hate messing with them! I shoot for Accuracy and could Care less what the Actual Velocity is? But i have Tested enough from my beginning in this Stuff to have a pretty darn good understanding of what my Guns are Doing. Here is 1 example, my 28” 1:28 Twist Green Mountain LRH .50 Cal Barrel, 95 Weight Grains of Swiss 2F, pushing a 460 Grain bullet Yielded 1,460 FPS. Another example, A Common Velocity of 1300-1400 FPS with a 530 Grain Bullet in a .45 Cal is what they Use in Competition ALL the way out to 1,000 Yards. Big Heavy Lead Carries itself EXTREMELY well!!

Here are 2 .50 Cal Bullets that I believe are as good as it gets for Elk, Both of these bullets Shoot equally well, bullet on the Left is 460 Grains (My copy of Dan’s Bullshop Bullet) And Bullet on the Right is 485 Grains. Both of these Molds were made By Accurate Bullet Molds in Utah. Take either of these bullets Lubed with a Good Soft Lube Such as my Home made Bear Grease Lube, or Dan’s Bullshop’s NASA, and put it on Top of 85-95 Grains of Swiss 2F Powder, With an 1/8” .54 Cal Wool Felt Over powder Wad Between the Powder and Bullet Base, I don’t think you can find ANYTHING Better for Elk
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Those are my 2 Favorites in .50 Cal, Now if you can Hunt Elk with a .45 Cal i have some different ideas there :) I wish we could hunt Elk here in Idaho with a .45 Cal, But We have a .50 Cal Minimum here
 
I've used 464gr .50 Cal bullets in my two Whitelightings for years. However, I've got lazy and have gone to 240gn XTP's with sabots. I have given up Moose hunting and only hunt deer now. Got a lot of 240gn XTP's from when I use to hunt with my Ruger Redhawk.

PS: All my muzzle loaders are with 75gn of 777.
 
Thank you for your reply. It is legal to hunt with .45 caliber here in NM. I like the idea, because of the increased B.C. and the decreased recoil. I've yet to have any luck getting an accurate load in my .45 caliber rifles. I've ordered some wads and lube, and will have to try the Swiss powder. What do you consider the best alloy for an elk bullet?
 
Idaho:
Ok, after reviewing your post you say you are shooting the 51-450M. In looking at the specs I see the bands bottom to top 504, 504, 506, 507. Is it hard to start this bullet? I know this is a tight fit in a Hawken. Why tapered? Why not a straight. 502 or 503 or 504? Reason I ask is on my cast bullets mine are .504 and I been sizing down to 502. They still fit semi tight but a little easier to load in my Hawken.
 
Idaho:
Ok, after reviewing your post you say you are shooting the 51-450M. In looking at the specs I see the bands bottom to top 504, 504, 506, 507. Is it hard to start this bullet? I know this is a tight fit in a Hawken. Why tapered? Why not a straight. 502 or 503 or 504? Reason I ask is on my cast bullets mine are .504 and I been sizing down to 502. They still fit semi tight but a little easier to load in my Hawken.

VERY Good point! And glad you asked, The reason i had this Mold, and at least 2 others Made Oversize is i was using Pure Soft Plumbers lead at the time, and thought i needed to use Pure lead in Muzzleloaders? When using pure soft lead the Bullets would start to “Give Up” about Halfway down the Bore When Loading, and by the Time they reached the Powder Charge they were Loose, Loose Enough that i did NOT trust them to stay put on the Powder, i feared a Bullet slipping off the Charge in a Hunting situation, pulling up and taking a Shot, And VERY possibly “Ringing” My barrel.
But even after having these Molds cut this LARGE oversize the problem stil occured When Loading Pure Soft Lead?? It was after this that i came up with the idea of going to 1-40 Alloy, i picked up a 9 pound Chop Block of it, After pouring these bullets of this 1-40 Alloy they Held the Bore like a ROCK!! In fact they were on the TIGHT side to load! But i knew i had found a Cure to “Loosening bullets” When Loading. I then started working on Custom Sizer dies for each of my Guns, For example my .50 Cal LRH has a .501 Bore, For hunting i size my bullets to .502, they Start good n tight, but i can push them in with my Thumb, They Stay good and tight all the way Down! Same thing with my 45s and 54s, I Customized Sizers for Target use, and Hunting use. For target use in a controlled environment (Shooting Bench) i prefer my bullets to “Bore Ride” so in my .50 Cal with .501 Bore, i size my bullets to .500, This way they just “Kiss” the Rifling on the Way down. But for hunting i want a Good tight fitting bullet that will NOT budge off the Powder Charge unless i ask it to! (Pull the trigger)

In conclusion, If i had known then what I know now (1-40 Alloy) i would NOT have had these Few molds cut this Large oversize, there was simply no need. For my .50 I would have went .503 all Bands, This would have made the Sizing a bit easier. Though I don’t have any problems Sizing these oversize bullets as it is, I lube them well and they Slide right through no problem! I have several rifles of all Calibers, and each has it’s own unique Sizing needs, the Largest 50 Bore i work with is .503, i run my bullets through a .504 For this Rifle. If you are only working with 1, or 2 Rifles this makes it much easier, if you know the Bore diameters (Say .501, and .502) you would be PERFECT with a Mold Cut to drop bullets at .503-.504 then Lube and push them through a .502-.503 Sizer
Hope this clears this up, and makes sense. Pure lead was my Problem from the Very beginning! After switching to 1-40 Alloy I solved the “Loosening” problem, But i had already had 3 oversize Band Molds Made. After going to 1-40 Alloy I have not looked back at pure lead again, in fact I don’t want any of it! Look at our World Class BPCR shooters, The VERY LARGE majority of them use at least 1-30, With 1-20 and 1-16 Alloys being the most popular. If pure lead was so great, Those guy’s would DEFINITELY be using it! But fact is they are NOT, and these guy’s compete to 1,000 Yards. Accuracy is EVERYTHING to them!! And they get just that with the Harder Alloys
 
Thanks for the explanation . I am going to try some 1:40 , if it works better I'm wondering if there would be a sure fire method to turn my own pure lead into a 1:40.
 
Those are my 2 Favorites in .50 Cal, Now if you can Hunt Elk with a .45 Cal i have some different ideas there :) I wish we could hunt Elk here in Idaho with a .45 Cal, But We have a .50 Cal Minimum here

If you cast your own bullets, try the Accurate Molds 45-465M mold. It is very accurate and will definitely do the job on Elk. 1864Sharpshooter has harvested I believe two Elk with this bullet. My favorite load with this bullet using a 50cal Felt Wad. (Yes 50cal Felt Wad, goes down very easily and provides a tighter seal) is 70-75gr of either Swiss or 777-3F. I know IdahoLewis loves Swiss2F with his 45 and 50cal ML. Dixon's ML Store near Hamburg PA, swears Swiss is the best black powder.
 
Idaho , what is your mix rate of your bear grease lube? Is there a substitute for the bear grease that might work since I have no source for bear grease?
 
Idaho , what is your mix rate of your bear grease lube? Is there a substitute for the bear grease that might work since I have no source for bear grease?

I don’t know of a Substitute that would compare to Rendered Bear Lard? This is some pretty unique stuff, Very Slick!!

There are 2 Lubes that i have tried other than mine that Work EXTREMELY well, That is Bullshop’s NASA, and forum member edmehlig’s “Super Blue .451 Lube” The Recipe for Ed’s is in the Casting Section here. My Bear Grease Lube is nothing more than an added ingredient of Ed’s “Super Blue .451 Lube” without the Blue Candle Wax Dye. I have Shot Ed’s bullets that he Sent me already lubed, They Shot REALLY well! I shot both his Hollow point Lyman Gould, and His Solid Gould, both lubed with his Blue Lube, and both Targets were a ranged 100 Yards.

Bullshop’s NASA Lube is the best stuff i know of that you can Purchase, I HIGHLY recommend Dan’s Bullshop NASA Lube to anyone looking to Buy a good Quality Bullet Lube, Bullshop Dan is who explained to me the importance of a Good Bullet lube, He saved me a lot of Head Scratching! Dan definitely knows his Stuff!

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What is your method of applying this , I have some 451 volunteer I moulded up that need lube?
 
I believe Swiss to be a Very important part of getting the Most out of your Rifle, I recently tried Goex Ole Eyensford against Swiss with a PROVEN load, The Olde E shot HORRIBLE, Swiss cut Bullet holes! As for Triple 7, I have only used it 1 time, Accuracy was great with it (Horrible Nasty Crud Ring Though!) Triple 7 requires a Hotter Spark to reliably ignite it, this is my understanding from Guy’s on here that Know, and understand the Powder.

I shoot North South Skirmish competition with Civil War era guns. As a competitor, I'm always looking for a "better" load in most of my guns.

In most of my guns, I get great results with Swiss and almost as good with Old E. Not every load will accept a change in powder and if you change one variable, you're right back into load development mode. Your changing to Old E is that very situation. Without repeating the load development process, you really can't say with certainty that Old E is garbage.
 
I shoot North South Skirmish competition with Civil War era guns. As a competitor, I'm always looking for a "better" load in most of my guns.

In most of my guns, I get great results with Swiss and almost as good with Old E. Not every load will accept a change in powder and if you change one variable, you're right back into load development mode. Your changing to Old E is that very situation. Without repeating the load development process, you really can't say with certainty that Old E is garbage.

In my experience it is, When compared to Swiss that is. I wouldn’t trade 1 pound of Swiss for an ENTIRE Truck Load of Goex Olde E, I PROMISE That!!
 
In my experience it is, When compared to Swiss that is. I wouldn’t trade 1 pound of Swiss for an ENTIRE Truck Load of Goex Olde E, I PROMISE That!!

In my rifled muskets, I'd agree. In my smoothbore, not so much. There is virtually no difference in it.
 
In my rifled muskets, I'd agree. In my smoothbore, not so much. There is virtually no difference in it.

And That’s my experience, in my Fast Twist Bullet Rifles, Rifles that i shoot out to 600 Yards, that will literally Cut Bullet Holes with Swiss at 100 Yards, But not So with Olde E? I stil have part of this Can of Olde E 2F that i plan to Test further this Coming Spring/Summer, But my limited testing thus far doesn’t look good for Olde E, at least Comparing it to Swiss, in my Bullet Rifles. It did Group pretty Darn good with 1 of my Slow Twist Roundball Rifles, Swiss stil Slightly edged it out, But it was DARN CLOSE, The Olde E Patched Roundball Group was Very acceptable :lewis:

When you look in the BPCR Winners Circle where they list their Load Data, Note how many of them are using Goex Olde E :) That tells me a LOT right there, Those guy’s are gonna shoot what Wins PLAIN N SIMPLE! There is one thing you will find that the VAST majority of those Guy’s competing at HIGH level will have in Common, That is SWISS Powder ;)
 
Old E is a powder that likes LOTS of compression. As in a compression die with BPCR. Kenny Wasserburger told me this last year and he is one of those guys competing on the upper end. Not sure it would work so good in a muzzy. I have 10 lbs of it for my Sharps but I don't shoot the matches.
 

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